Megadan

That doesn't explain why all of the parts chains are clearing out current stock and then no more though. Even if they changed structure and sent jobs elsewhere (which is annoying) the Bearings division would still be producing I would imagine.

Sounds like you bought Moog K80035 links, which are the ones I bought after I did my small front lift (2.2" after it has settled some). Even those weren't quite long enough to restore the bar to a nearly level position so I have ordered some swaybar drop brackets. The K80035 links are only around 1.7" longer in effective length than the factory links when measured from the bottom hole center to the space between the two top bushings. That was enough to get my bar and links out of the coil springs at least. Scroll to post 7 (bottom) and you can see the difference between the stock and K80035. http://comancheclub.com/topic/49830-did-my-lift-swaybar-clearance/ You can always disconnect the top of the links, pick and mark a fixed point to measure from on the current links, and move the bar up to a level position and measure the distance from that mark to the whole in the bar. Add that difference to the current links. When I did this I concluded I needed about another 1-2" of link length to be ideal, but since there are no cheap off the shelf links that work in a 9-10" length, I opted for drop brackets that cost me $30. I also concluded that you only want to go so long with the links before than can potentially be some clearance issues with the wheel well/body under full compression. Maybe I am just paranoid about it, but it was a thought I had.

Yea, I would call myself, but at work. This is assuming they would even confirm the buyout in the first place.

Some articles covering the split, including one from Tinken itself. http://news.timken.com/2013-09-05-The-Timken-Company-Announces-Plan-To-Separate-Its-Businesses-Into-Two-Independent-Publicly-Traded-Companies http://www.ohio.com/business/timken-to-split-bearings-steel-operations-into-separate-companies-1.426493 http://www.nytimes.com/2014/12/07/business/timken-bows-to-investors-and-splits-in-two.html?_r=0

Not an April Fools joke. I'm not 10 years old. This is a serious statement/question, and I would like to confirm for sure. Last I knew, back in December of last year, Timken was forced to divide into two division. Timken steel and Timken Bearing due to some brokerage company holding stock that wanted to split the company to increase it's share values. Unfortunately, that did happen (hooray greedy bastards) and that left Timken Bearing in a very precarious spot, and vulnerable to a buyout. So, of course, Moog seems to have taken advantage of this it appears.

Trying to order a Timken bearing/hub from Autozone the other day and they said they couldn't order them in. The manager of the store stated that Timken bearing was bought out by Moog and that they are instructed to sell their remaining stock until depleted. I tried to verify this for myself but was unable to. If this is true, then it saddens me. Timken was the last source of bearings that I actually trusted, so now I get to play the crapshoot game or hope that SKF offers bearings when I need them. It's definitely getting harder and harder to find quality parts for vehicles any more without paying a fortune for NOS parts, that you have to assume aren't repack aftermarket stuff to begin with.

Where are you from? There are Three AX-15/231 XJ's in the wrecking yard just down the road from me. one a 94, a 97, and a 01. Which means they are all external slaves. Total cost from this yard with the trans and T-case will be roughly $200 out the door.

Yes, those. Is the other one missing or damaged?

Is this a special order part, or would I be able to pick one up locally? Find no results searching online for that part number.

As stated, I am looking to source a set of the Rad mounts/supports for a 4cyl Comanche.

See if you can locate where the leak is coming from. It could be something as simple as the O ring gasket for the fuel pump hanger.

As far as I know the footwell area of the floors is the same, but the midde to back area is a little different. Most XJ made floor pan replacements require a little tweaking to work on an MJ. As for the carpet, maybe, but I have a feeling behind the seats may require a little finesse but I bet it could be made to work.

Just to answer your question from post 22 about no heater valve and the vacuum control for the door being open. That's how mine is, as long as the control is to the cool (blue ) side of the controls, no hot air comes through. My trans tunnel heats up my cab something terrible, but I get nice cool air from my vents.

part of the vacuum line that goes to the blend door in the HVAC box to block off the heater core. Mine was disconnected since I bought it. You can run without it if you want to,

Scroll down to Post #4 by Eagle. It lists the FSM bleeding procedure. http://comancheclub.com/topic/4647-brake-bleeding/ I just went through the same headache with mine, and this system managed to get an air bubble out even after I put half a gallon of fluid through the system. I also tied my load sensing valve arm in the vertical position to open it up all the way. Give that a try and report back.

Fix that damage for cheap and you would have a good cheap daily driver. My father had one of those for YEARS and it never let him down for any reason besides the alt going bad once and killing the battery. Had the same 1.9 engine and was a manual. As long as they get taken care of they run for a long time. All he ever did with his was do fluid changes when it was supposed to get them and put fuel in it.

Nice truck dude! Giving me envy(motivation) to make my long bed nicer. :bowdown:

You can do that write up ^^ Or buy a Putco harness. http://www.amazon.com/Putco-230004HW-Premium-Automotive-Lighting/dp/B001P29X4G In either case, it's pretty simple.

I don't get the Notorious part. My renix is super reliable and a great daily driver. Just had to put in some work to fix and clean some of the wiring and it's been a great daily driver for over 2 years now. Follow up that compression test with a leakdown test. See exactly where the air escapes from, because sometimes low compression can be caused by carbon buildup on valves not letting them seal properly. If excess air comes out of the CCV hose/valve cover, then you can chalk it up to worn rings. If air comes out the intake or exhaust, then that motor needs a good steam cleaning (or valve seats/valves checked out) ! As far as the HO Swap, there is an article on here that details what is necessary. If I remember right it was written by cruiser. Speaking of, look this over and do as many of these as you can or are needed. http://cruiser54.com/

Finally got a chance to install them, but I figured I would take a comparison photo between the two for reference in the future. I needed new links anyway, as you can see by the state of the bushings. It's worth noting that these along with a 2+" lift will not restore it to perfectly level, but close. I may still end up doing some kind of bar drop bracket. On the up side, they don't contact the springs, so good enough for now. Not the best image, but they are about 1.7" longer from the lower bolt center to the middle gap between the two bushings.

It's a good feeling when you finally get them back on the road. It's a maddening feeling when you do that, and then something new breaks and they go right back off the road. lol

Eh, I have RWD, and any sort of repair like that will require putting my truck down. I think I will just go snag another T-case, clean it up, inspect it, put new seals on it and swap it around. Will give me a good followup when I take apart the one currently installed.

Sounds like the fork may have come off the pivot point since you can see everything moving and the fork wiggles about. Only real way to know is to take it apart and look. Can't think of anything else myself, but i'm running on 3 hours of sleep and woke up 12 hours ago. My brain isn't functioning well enough to think lol

I'm going to assume external since he mentioned pushrod for the slave and clutch fork.

Already have one of those with a Mr. Fusion. didn't make a difference. :hmm: Oddly enough though, I keep ending up really late or really early everywhere I go...