Megadan

Pulling the pan would also give you a good general idea of the engines condition. Being a used engine there is always a gamble involved. For what it's worth, $200 is a bit cheaper than what they charge at my local yard for an engine in unknown condition. At the very least, being able to turn the crank by hand is a start.

So I have started to put together my engine oil cooler setup. I decided to try and do this on a budget of around $100 total. Thanks to my work I managed to get s sandwich plate for free ( we get awards points we can turn into gift cards and stuff ). And it is the right diameter to seal to the housing and the oil filter. The fittings that come on it are kind of crap quality, so I plan on using better aftermarket stuff like Summit Brand. It comes with the right center adapters for the Renix and HO oil filters, so it should work with both. Sandwich plate.http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Temperature-Sandwich-Filter-Adapter/dp/B00OPUL7CQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1457546643&sr=1-1&keywords=Universal+1%2F2+NPT+Oil+Temperature+Sandwich+Plate+Filter+Adapter+-+M10x1.5+%28Silver%29 I picked up an oil cooler from the pick-a-part for $11. It's a factory stacked plate unit from a Ford E350 passenger van It's a pretty good sized unit, 11 center rows and about 8" x 14" x 1.5" thick with 3/8" hose barb fittings. I've cleaned it out with some Seafoam and fixed a couple of the fins, but it is in great shape. From what I have seen it should fit between the grille and the AC Condenser. I just need to get some hose barb fittings, hose, some metal tubing, and an oil thermostat. I want to use as little rubber hose as possible, mainly between the engine and body (Thermostat mount) to allow for movement, and to connect to the cooler since it has hose barb ends just to prevent possible leaks due to any rubbing or damage. Then I should be able to plan out install and routing. If there is any interest, I could do a write up on it.

Sylvania tends to make decent products, but Pete is right. If you are going to spend money trying to get better headlights, do the relay harness mod/upgrade. It will do more for you light output than any special headlight setup ever will.

For a complete used running long block, yea I would call that pretty average.

Those two used series 2 3800's, which is a bit different from the Buick derived 3.8. Different bell pattern being the biggest physical difference, so either a different trans or adapter would be needed from what was used above. Not that difficult, but just something to consider. the Buick used the classic BOP, the 3800 engines use the Corp 60 degree pattern, which means they can bolt up to any trans that had the 2.8 bolted in stock.

Ah well

THIS^^^^^

The first video worked for me? Maybe I am just special.

I am very happy with my General Springs stock repalcement leaves. Highly recommended. New will obviously be more expensive, about $280 plus shipping (which was about $88 for me).

That sounds really good for a 4 pot.

I love my Magnaflow, but it is a big one. That's what I love about Magnaflows though, size matters. No droone at all in my truck, nice deep smooth exhaust note, but when I get on it, you hear it.I had the 18" case, ultra flow, stainless model. It made my truck sound like a Honda Civic or Subaru. I wasn't fond of it. Well, I also have a straight 6. With that big body on the muffler (28" oval case) it's pretty deep, and when I get on it, it sounds like a 6 pot should sound.

I love my Magnaflow, but it is a big one. That's what I love about Magnaflows though, size matters. No droone at all in my truck, nice deep smooth exhaust note, but when I get on it, you hear it.

I wonder if he added leaves from a Cherokee pack into the Comanche ones? That would make sense to me, and would also explain some lift.

I was considering investing in one of these. I have heard good things about them, and you can get adapters to suit almost any vehicle. Admittedly, I do need to do the brakes, and I am pretty sure one of the rear drums is either stuck or way out of adjustment. So that might be part of the pedal issue along with some trapped air. The problem is, I have to wait until next weekend to really try and get in there and inspect/adjust the rear drums as I am working over 50+ hours all week. As far as a bleeding system, I may purchase one of these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mvp-0103?seid=srese1&gclid=CLCM69LOscsCFQuPaQody9QDkgand find a way to get all of the lines open and bled. Worse case scenario, with that pressurizing the system, I may just crack open the fittings on the lines and see if I can get some air out that way. On a positive note, with a non leaking booster, my truck is running better than it ever has lol.

Well, I followed the bleed procedures for bench bleeding according to manufacturer instructions, and while I did pump the pedal after install, I only depressed it very slightly a couple of times, and then once a friend opened the bleeder I slowly pushed it down a bit more, but never went beyond halfway. If I screwed the seals up again, I don't know how. It seems a bit ridiculous to me that the seals would be THAT weak. The issue is, the FSM bleeding procedures call for you to fully depress the brake pedal, which is completely counter intuitive to what you are supposed to do with this new MC. Seems like the only option is to use some sort of power bleeder, but it still doesn't solve getting air out of the bypass system. Would tying up the valve in the back help?

I'm wondering about the booster not going flush with the firewall. That contributes to long pedal travel. If that were the case, then everybody else that has done so would have reported the same problem. There is pressure immediately when you push on the pedal and you feel the brakes grab, but then the pedal keeps going for 1-2 inches before there is any significant brake force. Past that point I can actually stop with decent brake force. I can only assume I have a decent amount of air trapped somewhere, although I have followed the proper bleed procedures.

Got the new one, bench bled it, installed it, and was careful to not push it in too far. Attempted to bleed the rest of the system. as far as I can tell the funky pressure issue is no more, and it doesn't feel like the fronts are dragging. Pedal is still super soft and I have to push a lot to stop, so I need to find a way to bleed it more effectively than what I have now.

Took the MC off and sure enough there is a bunch of seal material on the plunger. Going now to get another new one. Will report back if it makes a difference.

I was pretty stumped by that story too. I could see how the seals could become dislodged and then not allow the pressure to release, thus causing the pads to drag. But that's just my theory after that and your story. It happened a while ago. Personally, I would get rid of the valve in the rear of the truck. It makes bleeding so incredibly difficult. Though it shouldn't have any effect on the front brakes. How are the new lines you ran from the WJ MC to the distribution block? None are too severely bent are they? Nope, I made nice smooth long bends. I'm really good with bending, cutting, and flaring tubing. I normally work with stainless line, which is a lot more of a pain in the butt. I'm going to go swap out the master cylinder with another and be careful to not push that piston all the way in and see how it goes.

I did modify the lip. The booster won't sit flush with the firewall because of the center section that holds the pushrod, which is larger in diamter than my stock booster. It hits the brake pedal bracket and/or the hole the firewall isn't big enough. Honestly, I would love to ditch the spacers just so the pedal sits higher, but I may have to swap out to a newer XJ brake pedal bracket. That may be the case with the master. I had a buddy doing the pump and hold method and I am pressure sure he pumped it all the way down more than once. However, I don't see how this can cause the front brakes to drag? We had the same issue on the used master cylinder as well. I noticed the weeping when it was installed on the vehicle during the bleeding process. I can always test this theory and exchange it under warranty and try again. Yes, it is still the stock prop valve and block. The reservoir is full, and if there was any gunk in the system, it's gone now after pushing half a gallon of fluid through the system.

I just completed said swap. The booster is used, but tested good and holds pressure perfectly. I had to install it using washers to space it off the firewall as it wold not sit flush. Spaced about 1/4". Everything else mod wise related to the swap is perfect and operational. The master I originally used was also from the same vehicle, but I discovered it weeping a tiny bit of fluid from the rear seal during bench bleeding, so I replaced it with a new (not reman) master cyl. Bench bled that, installed, and bled the entire system 3 ways (gravity,pump up and release method, and a reverse bleeder. So, I am pretty confident there is zero air in the system. Even checked and adjusted the rear drums. Also replaced all the rubber hoses in the system with new, longer, ones. On to the issue. When bleeding the front brakes only, the pedal would lose all ability to build pressure after releasing pressure during the bleed. However, if you let it sit for just a few seconds it would come back and work. Eventually we got to a point it would no longer do that seemingly and called it good. Except that the front pads don't seem to fully let go of the rotors, a lot like the kind of drag you get with a drum setup. I quintuple checked how the lines were run to the distribution block just in case there was some way that could F it up, and it matches the way everybody else did them. While driving, the pedal feels soft, but the brakes do grab almost immediately when touching the pedal. It's almost like they aren't getting enough pressure. But, if I push hard, the truck will damn near throw me out of the windshield. The steering and truck still feel like the fronts are dragging. The only thing in the system I didn't touch was the distribution block itself. Was I supposed to do something with this? I am stumped. Help...

I have a 30" length Maagnaflow oval muffler. Since I have no cat, but wanted my truck to not be obnoxious I ordered a larger bodies muffler. Sounds good, still audible, but not loud at all, and it sounds really good when I open it up.

I'm not too worried about the interior or it's color. My idea behind this was to make a trailer big enough for a mattress to sleep in with some storage capability for camping stuff via a false floor. Maybe a small water tank for a shower and a small cooking station.

I kind of wish I was close enough to tow this home. It just screams to me that it's the perfect candidate for my adventure camper trailer lol

Price Terminal to terminal freight with terminal pickup at destination. I shipped a complete rear axle assembly that way for way cheaper than what UPS or Fed Ex could quote me. Just something I learned when I used to run OTR and Line Haul. R&L Carriers tends to be a good one.