Megadan

I would have liked to have seen what the low beam glare was like on those LED housings. I am definitely interested, but not if they are going to blind the crap out of oncoming traffic. Also, from the reviews I have read on a few sites, a lot of people say they lack range. I like having strong distance lighting more than tons of up close light, especially in the winter with snow on the ground, or even rain.

At half a tank it shouldn't have a problem with fuel starvation from sloshing. There is a bucket of sorts inside the tank that the pump sits in to prevent complete starvation. It still may be possible, but it could also be coincidence that it has happened at this point. With this kind of issue it can help to poke and prod around with the wiring, connectors, etc, and see if you notice anything out of the ordinary. Either that, or you are taking turns at like 10000000 mph and making the fuel crawl way up the side of the tank lol

About how far down on the gauge do you get when it starts to happen?

Money, that's what I was going to get at, but you did all the work for me.

It may be a dumb and obvious question, but does it do this with a full tank?

At this point I have done a Rampage brand Halogen clear lens headlight (H4 bulb) conversion with a relay harness. Nothing fancy or quite so radical as the above. I do want to get a pair of LED combination spot and flood lights mounted on the bumper here soon, and I would love some type of bed lighting. Still brainstorming on that one.

This^ You can also search car-part.com for an MJ AX-15 crossmember. I did this and got mine for $60 shipped to my house. Also, if you have a BA10 trans, you will need the backing/inspection plate thatsits between the engine and bellhousing. Then obviously the trans and transfer case with all of the shift linkage for the T-case. The 4wd shifter as well. Not sure if the ZJ front driveshaft is the same as an XJ/MJ, but you will want that as well.

35" tires with hardly any lift. Surprised there isn't a big slice in the middle of those treads lol. 35's on 3.07 gears too. Let me know how that feels lol. 3.07's on 235/75-15 tires is underwhelming, I can't even imagine what it's like with those tires on there.

All of my AX-15 swap parts came out of a 1993 ZJ that I found at the pick a part. Sad thing was, it was in really good shape. From what I could tell it was in the yard due to a blown head gasket (lots of coolant in the oil). The body was very rust free and the interior would have been perfect with lots of cleaning.

It does make it a bit easier as you can re-use the fittings (or get new ones) going into the distribution block. I simply cut off the bubble flare end that was going to go into said block, put the fitting from the block on said line, and double flared the end. I Gently persuaded the lines and bends into shapes that worked for my install, and cut them to length as needed. Not difficult, but it took the most time for me. The rest of it was pretty straight forward.

I have newer rear leaf springs as well. You could look into getting the springs re-arched or buying new leaves if you can afford too.

You have a vehicle with 26 year old coil springs in it that has had only a driver in it for most of it's life. Mine was a bit leany to the drivers side too. I just did a small lift on mine and it sits level now. That drivers side spring is probably a bit weak and/or sagged a bit. You can either put in new springs, or they sell small spacer shims to go between the spring and chassis to level it (cheaper option).

Dang that was a clean truck. Shame that they totaled it, but I think it's BS that he couldn't buy it back.

Wheel/tire weight will factor in very little for constant speed fuel econ, but will greatly impact acceleration (city driving). Larger diameter tires have a greater moment of inertia, which means they will also take more energy to accelerate. That's why cars designed for fuel econ use small diameter light weight wheels and tires (along with low resistance narrow tires). As a general rule, the larger tires will cause your engine to turn fewer RPM's at the same speed. In a perfect world this would equal better fuel economy, but if you drop out of your engines ideal operating zone and start to lug on the engine to get up hills or accelerate you can end up using more fuel. Calculated out on my truck, a 215/75-15 and 235/75-15 and 4.10 gears only constitutes a 100rpm drop at 60mph (2400rpm for 215's and 2300 for 235). I can't imagine this would cause the engine to really fall out of it's happy place going down the road, but I have never driven a 4cyl to know. If you want to see the effects of different tire sizes you can mess around with this. http://fitbodyshop.net/gear/index.php

It hangs up at the hole where the rod goes through, the very end of that center section that the rubber boot covers won't go through the hole. I measured the stock one and the WJ, and the WJ is larger by roughly 1/4-1/3 inch.

I don't disagree with you at all. That's why most tow packages have shorter gearing. with my 235/75-15 tires ideally a set of 3.73's would be in my axles, but my 3.55's work ok. On flat ground I can go into 5th, but I have to downshift for most hills for obvious reasons

If only that were true for mine. I clearanced that lip, didn't sit flush.

Thanks. It's a MKII Supra actually. That's my friends project car. I obviously have more I want to do with my truck. I want to get a different rear axle under it, either a 8.25 Corp or Ford 8.8 and either a matching front axle or regear the current one. I would like to do 4.10's and 33's, My problem is having the space for 2 axles sitting around and having the time to do the rear swap. My truck being my daily makes doing some of that work more difficult.

I know why they have gears.... You left out the fact that most large diesels have an operational rev range of about 300-400rpm (most trucks operate between 1200-1700 through each gear), which also necessitates multiple gears. The renix makes plenty of low end torque to manage towing 5k lbs as long as you drive it intelligently. I've already pulled over 4 more than once without a single problem with my 5spd.

I've had no problem towing with my manual, but... I am a truck driver. Yes a big diesel tractor and a smaller gas engine pickup are different animals, but the same game applies to the clutch. Honestly, if I were going to be regularly towing heavy loads with one of these trucks, I would consider a small upgrade (Stage 1) in the clutch department.

Figured I would update a little bit. Outside of keeping it running and little fixes here and there, I did my budget lift up front with Moog 784 springs and a spacer (measured 2.2" lift from factory specs). Now the front is almost level with the rear. It sits about 1/4 to 1/2" higher out back now, and I have done zero things to lift the rear. Even after all this time the General Springs factory replacements still sit about an inch higher than the stock springs. I may get a set of 1" lift shackles for the back to restore a bit of the rake as I do haul stuff with my truck from time to time. Forgive the quality on the pics, it was taken with a cell phone that doesn't like bright sun. Also, ignore the rust on the drivers door. I have plans to get new doors in the upcoming future.

You are thinking of the booster from the ZJ and 95+ XJ, which has a longer rod length distance from the back of the booster to the hole where the pedal bolts to the rod. The WJ and our stock boosters are actually close to the same length in that measure.

I had this EXACT problem and I spent a long time trying to track down my culprit. What my problem ended up being was the rubber hose that connects the pump to the metal tube on the hanger inside of the tank. In my case the hose had slipped back and was letting most of the pressure bleed off as it spewed the fuel right back into the tank. I used my AN flare tool and put a small lip on the end of the hose and tightened the heck out of the clamp. This may not be your problem, but it's something to keep in mind. I spent ages testing, parts swapping, and bypassing all kinds of crap with no success. Turned out to be a 30 minute fix that cost me $0

Just ordered that exact part number off of Rock Auto for $10 each with $4.80 shipping. ;)

You rock hornbrod. Thanks!