Megadan

Over the winter my truck has developed this issue where below operating temp (even on rare occasion even warmed up), between 2300-2800rpm at part throttle it will act like it just loses all ignition timing, tumbles, bumbles, backfires, and stumbles. I just spent this last weekend checking every ground, connector, cleaned my IAT sensor, put on a new TPS I had sitting in a box and calibrated it, swapped out map sensor (No change), My truck runs better than it has in many months. Short of Eliminating the C101 (which is my next plan) I have done every and any Cruiser tip. Truck has no EGR. Fuel pressure is rock solid. Now, I know it's not fuel. How? Because when it starts to stumble I can floor it and my truck takes off like a raped ape. Other than that specific thing it does, it idles fine, runs fine, fuel econ hasn't changed much (and actually improved after putting on new vacuum hoses woot). Yet no matter what I do, at that very specific Rpm range, and not even very consistently, it just decides to go beserk. Is there a chance that a CPS could give just a weak enough signal to cause the ignition timing to go wacky, but still allow it to start and run fine otherwise? Most people talk about them failing like a light switch. I am just wondering if maybe my new clutch and flywheel has stuck some material on the end of that magent. If so, why would it have an effect on just that very specific point and nowhere else... Edit: I would also like to note that the truck has a new distributor, and new enough coil and ICM to consider them new. (less than 5000 miles)

Maybe I should have said, "it takes along time" rather than "Never Does." It will get up to temp, but if I am going 60 on the highway, it loves to stick right around the tick mark about 1/4 way up the scale (maybe 160) and might slowly climb to 180-185. The T-stat is Rated at 195. Stant 45359. It's not stuck open, I checked that just to be sure. Ran the truck at idle and waited for it to open, hose went cold to hot quickly when it opened. Honestly, My truck has always ran on the cool side ever since I did that new radiator. even on a 100 degree day it has to sit for a long time at idle before it gets hot enough to kick on the electric fan. FWIW, before I did the new radiator I also did an acid flush of the system to clear out any rust or other deposists from the block, and then did a complete block drain (what came out was NASTY), ran the base solution, block drained, and ran straight distilled water to rinse it out.

I have a non-factory T-stat that I installed with no hole drilling or other modifications and it holds rock solid and even runs a bit cool on all but the days where it gets around 90 or hotter., and it will hit 210 and then my fan comes on and it slowly falls back down. I should note that I put in a new radiator and water pump at the same time as that T-stat. Honestly, my biggest complaint is that it struggles to get up to temp when it's below 40 degrees, and below 20 it almost never does.

The problem isn't the switch design so much as the design being asked to handle all of the headlight current. This is one of the big reasons why I did a relay setup to power the headlights directly off the battery, and the headlight switch just triggers the relays and pulls a lot less current through it. As a nice side effect, the headlights see close to 14V when the truck is running, which makes them much brighter.

If the tank, pump, and hanger were that bad I would order a bunch of fuel line, a filter, and maybe consider cleaning or replacing the injectors too. Just a thought.

I bleed it using the lines on the bell housing. Where is the nipple on the body? How do you bleed it through the slave cylinder? If you have an internal slave then it would be the lines you mention, so yea. Did you bleed a good amount of fluid through?

Also hard at work. :thumbsup:

You should bleed the full system through the slave cylinder, which should have a bleed nipple on the body.

Rear window and doors for me. Ging to look into getting new weather stripping and seals this summer and having my rear window re-installed/sealed. Hopefully that at least reduces my swimming pool problems.

I've had most of the experiences you guys have had, even had a guy who owned a Cherokee asked me if I used a kit to make it a truck. Also had people offer to trade me a variety of vehicles. Including 3 Mustangs, a Camaro, a Firebird, a Chevy C10, a Ranger, a Toyota Pup, and a handful of other random vehicles. At least I know if I ever go to sell it, I shouldn't have a hard time finding people.

My interior lights fix themselves all the time when it rains lol. I actually disconnected them for fear of a bad short that may cause other problems.

Carter or Bosh would be my two recommendations. The Carter i replaced my stock pump with is still going strong 3 years later. A complete Carter kit can be had from rock auto for around 50 bucks,

650 miles for a bed. I guess if you really wanted one it would be worth the drive. Probably looking at $200 in fuel for the trip there and back.

That isn't a completely rusted out pile of scrap? Good luck! I will keep my eyes open for you. If you happen to stumble into a set of 97+ XJ Doors in good shape give me a shout lol. Everything at the yards here, if they aren't completely rotted out, are smashed up to the point they aren't worth taking.

QT is a chain gas station. Definitely a small world! The most Comanches I have seen in one day, all 3 lol

:eek: Wow!

Couple of sexy long beds aye! Yea, we are in the Omaha area. Would be kind of cool to track down some more people from this area for meets, greets, modding, and so forth. I actually spotted a shortbed at one of our local u-pull yards here today but couldn't find the owner. Had a flatbed on the back (if it happens to be anybody on here). At least was able to score all the parts I need for my WJ booster swap for 50 bucks. :banana:

For the cost of a gear swap in that 35 you could buy a good used Ford 8.8 from an Explorer in and pay somebody to weld the leaf perches on for you. As long as you don't want anything beyond a 4.10 at least.

No worries, just figured I would ask nicely before someone else chimed in rudely lol. The easiest way to do it would be to try and find an auto 4x4 around the same vintage as yours that you could use as a parts truck. The big parts are easy enough to get, but the small things can get you. As far as the gear ratios go, they will be the same between the front and back. With an automatic, your rear ratio should be a 3.55:1, The front axle from an auto 6cyl XJ/MJ will also have this 3.55:1 ratio.

Well, in order to tell you what to get, we first need to know what you have. Details on your current truck would help. 4 or 6cyl? auto or manual?

I thought so. I'm the guy with the Tan 4x4 you talked to a couple of months ago. If you need some help with your truck I can lend a hand. You know where to find me after all :thumbsup: I plan on doing some moving and organizing of my garage so I can get my project car in there this Sunday and I am off Monday as well.

That truck is REALLY familiar looking. You don't happen to live in Omaha do you?

What is the width and offset of said wheels? Also, keep in mind that even if those specs are accurate, the wheel face itself was not designed for the brakes the vic has, but instead the brakes that the Challenger uses. They may not clear without a spacer.

^That is strange, but I have no explanation for it. My stock springs were centered even with a broken leaf.

When I installed my new General Springs leaves my wheels were that far forward. When I get home I will find a picture I took and post it here if you want. They sit almost entirely in the middle now. Just my own experiences and 2 cents. I still say toss some weight in the back, let them settle, and then see where they end up.