Megadan

I can confirm the C2C pans are not the best fit, but they come setup to be tweaked to fit a little easier, and they are made out of 16ga steel vs other panels being made of 18

Even with the moog links you will find the bar and link still touching the springs, or extremely close. I had to install a set of drop brackets for the bar to clear the springs. I went with a set from Rubicon Express, but I don't like how far down it drops the bar and I am looking to switch to the same type Hornbrod is using, which I believe are these. I am sure he can confirm that is the right part for us. http://www.synergymfg.com/Synergy-Jeep-JK-Rear-Long-Travel-Upper-Shock-Mount-Sway-Bar-Relocation-Bracket-p-29981.html

XJ Front replacement pans will work, but do require a little bit of persuasion to work perfectly. I got my front pans from C2C, but there are many others out there you could use. http://www.c2cfabrication.com/collections/jeep-cherokee-parts

Regarding Renix IAT. http://comancheclub.com/topic/49753-found-replacement-air-charge-temperature-sensor-or-iat/

I am getting play, as well as a lot of gritty sounds. The bearing and seal kits are not expensive, nor difficult to install. I already have one on order. For me it's peace of mind. The 6 gear planetary set isn't worth it to me. Show me 1 instance where somebody broke the 3 gear under normal road use and light off-roading. The wide chain is a good idea, but at this point in time, I'm not concerned. If/when this chain goes bad I may look into it more, but for now I just want to clean everything up, put in new seals/bearings, and rock it like it is. I didn't budget or plan around an $700 T-case build.

IIRC the high altitude CPS position vs standard gives 5 degrees more base advance timing. While it does remove that from the back end, these engines are timed pretty far back from everything I have seen with my timing light. Unless you run into some pretty crappy regular fuel at the pumps it shouldn't cause any issues. Even with crap fuel, it shouldn't be a problem. I have yet to run into one at least. Honestly, advanced timing can help with highway economy, but most modern engine tunes will pull fuel and do a lean burn steady state mode, running AFR's well into the 15:1 range instead of kicking timing forward, and will work with the knock sensor to pull or add timing to keep things happy. That's one reason a lot of modern cars and computer tunes get better highway econ. Just like the advanced timing, it require a light foot, because the second any change id detected thoe AFR's drop back down. With cruise control on flat ground though, it can make a big difference.

That is not what he said. Rather, the renix engine has a knock sensor that permits the ecu to advance ignition timing to the point where the engine knocks, then backs the timiing off. Eagle put a high altitude Crankshaft position sensor on his truck. The high alltitude CPS has a wider range of ignition advance than the normal CPS (octane requirement drops with altitude because altitude has the same effect as lower compression). So because of the High Altitude CPS and the high octane fuel, his ecu advanced the timing further than normal which improved the highway MPG. Without the High Altitude CPS, premium fuel would have done nothing at all for the MPG. The high altitude doesn't have a wider range. It is literally, physically, advanced forward on the bracket so that the base signal timing starts more advanced. You can take a regular CPS and make it high altitude by simply moving the sensor over on said bracket yourself. Covered in Cruisers tips.

That is it. Outside of additive packages, higher octane unleaded fuel gets its higher detonation resistance by having longer hydrocarbon chains. Those longer chains resist ignition under the same conditions as shorter hydrocarbon molecule chains, thus requiring more energy input to achieve proper ignition. That is why forced induction and high compression engines not only run the fuel to resist detonation which would be caused by the shorter molecule chains igniting on their own under the higher temps created in said engines, but tend to run better on it as well, the increased cylinder pressure creates said higher temps, and that energy creates more ideal conditions for said longer chains to ignite. In fact, if you run a high enough octane fuel than an engine is designed for you can actually see a loss of power and economy as the engine will not be able to combust all of the fuel charge as the burn rate will be too slow. That was my nerd moment, please continue.

My completely stock truck 5spd 4x4 long bed (with exception of 235's on heavier steel wheels), as weighed on a truck scale with me(260lbs), a full 16gal tank, and nothing else in it came out to 3792lbs. EDIT: I should note I had no spare wheel or tire, so add about 50-60lbs for that. Keep in mind that most curb weights are "dry" weighs and do not include the weight of fluids, fuel etc.

They are also instantly in the way if you do a sway bar drop. I MAY be able to get mine to work, but at that point it wouldn't be protecting much if I have to cut it a bunch.

I remember seeing somewhere on here a person used the HO brake assembly with a 2 wire ford switch from an old pickup instead of the HO unit.

Yea, it should be.

I'm interested in getting one to slap on my truck window somewhere. What's the who what when where why how of ordering?

I have a MIG with 312L wire and a full bottle of pure Argon. Always been more then enough to weld in a bung or two. :D I've heard mixed things about the clamp on stype, but they do work. I wouldn't shy from trying one out if I didn't have a welder setup for stainless and aluminum (spool gun) already.

I read it all DirtyComanche. I agree with everything you said :thumbsup: Honestly, for a front bumper, SCH40 pipe would be perfect for a tough/light build, Around 1 1/2 and 2" SCH40 pipe has a .140-.155 ish wall thickness (off of memory) which is a bit thicker than 1/8th inch. If you wanted something closer to 1/4" SCH80 in those diameters is right around .200" thick. Would be heavier, but stronger - so probably better for hard core use where it might run into things. Both SCH40 and SCH80 are readily avail at the hardware store and fairly cheap. You could also mix it up if you wanted and use SCh10 or 20 for brush guard/grille guard duty with the main body/bars as SCH40. etc etc. yadda yadda

No idea. I don't have a factory manifold or pipe or I would go measure the bolt spacing for you.

Oh, and that bender is more designed around pipe than tubing. There is a video on youtube of a guy that made a simple mod to them to help prevent kinking tubing. He made a strap with a bolt through the top to secure the back side of the tube, and then drilled through the mandrel to secure the strap to it with a bolt. I've also heard of people filling the tubing with sand to prevent kinks.

DOM, Drawn Over Mandrel, tubing is recommended for structural safety items (IE Roll cages) because the mandrel drawing process the seam weld is removed and the tubing is then cold drawn over a mandrel to improve measurement and structural tolerances (consistency in size/thickness). The cold drawing process also lends some work hardening to the tube making it a bit stronger. A lot of people make the mistake of saying it is seamless, which it actually does have a seam to it, you just don't see it. SMT, Seamless Mechanical Tubing, is extruded and truly seamless. It's also pretty expensive stuff, even by DOM standards. For a bumper, standard tubing, aka ERW, or Electric Resistance Welded, will be plenty fine. Just pick a good thickness based on the kind of loads/impacts it will see, the capability of that bender, and weight considerations.

You have my interest. I like the idea of mini fuses and micro relays as well as the bussed power like you. I could assemble a basic setup outside of the truck and tag everything to install at a later date. I suck at reading wiring schematics, but it looks like you built in a headlight relay harness into the system to take the main load off of the headlight switch. This is a smaller fuse block similar to what you have, but same basic design. Think this would handle enough to run basic chassis duty? Maybe a pair of them, one under hood, the other under dash? http://www.delcity.net/store/Sealed-Mini-Fuse-&-ISO-280-Mini-Relay-Combo-Panel-!-Individual-Inputs/p_803803.h_803804.t_1.r_IF1003?mkwid=skXzRAiBp&crid=38094426869&mp_kw=&mp_mt=&gclid=CN7iwd_FjswCFYSAaQod6UoJcw

Weld on a stainless O2 bung on that header. They are pretty cheap and easy to find and would solve that issue.

I just took mine off. I didn't know it was made out of gold! lol

Nope to which part?

The real question is how much shorter is the rod length. The spacer for the XJ is about 1/4" thick. I think the ZJ rod is more than 1/4" shorter than the XJ rod. Only way to know for sure would be to measure one of each and compare

I believe the ZJ and later XJ double diaphragm units are the same booster and master setup. It's the length of the rod from the pedal to the booster itself is where the only difference lies from what I remember. the ZJ unit has a shorter rod. I just wish I could remember where I found that tidbit of information. :hmm:

It's not the needle bearings I am really concerned with, it's the input and both output bearings that have seen better days. Same with the input and front output seal, which both leak. In the time I had that case turned upright to take a look inside it had left a decent size puddle that just dripped out the input side. I was eyeballing this kit in particular http://www.americanpowertrainwarehouse.com/np242-np242j-transfer-case-rebuild-kit-fits-95-jeep-fits-98-dodge-94-hummer-w-16mm-input-bearing-bk242b/ They also have the correct Borgwarner brand chain for $78, and I figure with a new filter, and pump ( because why not) it comes out to a total of roughly $180 to just completely re-do everything. If that chain it currently has is actually in good running order I could either cut that down to roughly $100 and retain the current chain, or spend the extra money and keep the current chain as a backup for those just in case moments. As far as the 242 vs. 231 debate. I went out and specifically bought this transfer case, so that should show you my lack of faith in most internet opinions.