Rockfrog

They are not a required replacement, and were phased out sometime around the time the knuckles changed. My 88 has them. Just because you bought a kit that doesn't include them does not mean they aren't used. They are there on some axles, they SHOULD be replaced with the ball joints. It's quite unlikely they ever did though. That is what the part is for, whether you choose to believe so or not. A quick read of an early service manual will show you they are in fact part of the factory assembly. As stated previously though, hey were eventually phased out, when, I can't confirm.

Troll! [emoji12]

Meh! I have Mustang injectors already. I find my Renix to be no more problematic than my HO ... And simple to fix when things go wrong. I had the choice to convert to OBD I when I picked up the 92 XJ for parts, chose not and just swapped the common parts between the two. I like my Renix. There I said it, commence the stoning already ya weenie buncha HObum's It's still rolling the stock D35, BA 10/5 and still uses the stock CPS. I may have adjusted things as they literally fell apart after 27yrs (rad crumbled in my hands prompting the rad swap to open cooling as that's what I had on hand). Most of the problems have always been wiring related ... an issue common to all three 4.0 engine management platforms (and the 2.5 and 2.8 for that matter, with the 2.8 being the only real problem in the lot).

I noticed the same results with my 88 4.0 5spd (Ba 10/5) ... Crisper throttle response, and smoother acceleration. I no longer have a bouncing throttle prior to warm up as well.

Some early D30's had a replaceable ballpoint seat ... That is what that is. IIRC it would go in the bottom hole. D44's had a similar item for the upper hole.

My old worn out tcase linkage used to do the same thing, tied it together to test theory and the clicking stopped.

Inventories, predictive growth models, historical trending ... I've decided that even though my math teachers were right, the were arse's for it. Some days I just want a simple drive my shovel job.

If you want to three link you need to start with a new axle side mount, a new frame side mount and plan to use at least a lower size bushing minimum. Then reinforce the mounting points and make a new upper link that is at least as beefy as a lower. I went 3-link long arm, since new mounts were needed anyway. Passenger side mounts using a RE lower as an upper, tubes sleeved and welded to housing. Works beautifully. A stock upper link would have died from the added stress long ago (if it didn't rip off outright). It was my daily driver until the water pump decided to leak. Commuting to work once per week between 500-1000km round trip depending on job site. So 13-26000kms/year for the last three years.

Yep, a careful rerouting is all that's needed and there is plenty of slack to reach the new location.

I have to use various forms of math everyday at work.

I've often thought a short flex pipe behind the bellhousing would save the manifolds from cracking. Plan to use the Renix flange (has no crush) a custom down from that to a flex pipe behind the bell and mate that to my current exhaust. And adding bung for the 02 sensor is easy... Drill hole, have welder burn bung in. Any muffler shop will have them or they can be found at auto parts stores or even eBay for little cost.

When I swapped to the HO manifold I used an HO down pipe and had a muffler shop splice to the old exhaust just before the Crossmember. Cost me $60.

I have one from a 98ZJ and was wondering the same thing.

There have been many reported cases of CPS's being faulty out of the box. Hence why most recommend a factory part to replace them.

I hear ya, my BA still works fine too. But I do have a 92 and a 94 AX-15 for when it decides to kick me in the arse.

Correct the CJ bushing is for adding a late model trans to and early engine. You are doing the opposite. The easy answer is to find a 94+ trans.

The XJ/MJ/ZJ used the same size driveshaft ujoints.

That won't work either, the 98 had a bigger outside diameter, and the B/A 10 has a smaller inside diameter bearing. Trans Pilot - 87-93 (BA10 and AX15) - 0.590" 94 and up (AX15, NV3550) - 0.750" Crank Pilot - 87-93 - 1.1" OD 94 and up - 1" OD

Because if the TPS is saying the throttle is at X position, the engine starts to richen up. The O2 sensor relays the rich condition, the IAC may open up some, and the injectors may be dialed back. But the TPS says you need more so the PCM does whatever it can to accommodate your need. Hence a high "idle" is experienced. All the sensors work together not just one task and that's it. You also have to remember the engine has access to way more air than it needs even at idle, it Will pull what it needs. Any vacuum/intake leaks will exacerbate this. Case in point, when I was swapping the GM 2.8 tps, all other sensors/parts were unchanged. Renix TPS, perfect idle no issues. GM TPS with stock Renix wire placement ... Meaning the PCM was seeing WOT ... 3000rpm idle. Swap wires to correct GM orientation ... Perfect idle. The 4.0 runs lean in Stock form, so a little more fuel will mean increased rpm even with the IAC closed (there is still an air passage open, the IAC just increases the openning) At least that is my understanding of it. And yes the taper of the pintle/seat is different between Renix and HO.

ZJ's had either a front CV style driveshaft, or a Ujoint style drive shaft. The ujoint style shafts will fit the yokes if cut down to the needed length (I have a couple I had shortened during my XJ build, and now keep as trail spares). Usually shortening only ran me $40 or 70 with a rebalance. Can't say on the steering shaft but the columns are similar, and the steering boxes are interchangeable. Measure the length and compare end connections. The axle is closer to a TJ design brackets wise, meaning they use a cam bolt for caster adjustment. This is not an issue as you can either retain it and have double adjustable arms (using stock arms) or lock it out with a washer and use your stock frame mount adjuster. Other wise TRE's taper and layout, trackbar brackets (axle side) are the same. My 88 MJ has some ZJ parts on it's front end (from a 95). Knuckles and hubs and brakes are all the same for related years, and are compatible with D30's 90-98 (and part way through 99). The knuckles themselves are the same as those used 90 up with regards to XJ/MJ compatibility...

I was planning to use my driverside headlight plug to trigger a set of driving lights (hi) and fogs (lo). My passenger plugs triggers the headlight relay harness. I want to run the stock hi/lo wires to separate dash switches, then back to the relay, and to the lights. Same idea as the headlight harness, just switched.

I run 35's on my 30, does fine. The biggest issue with the 30 is housing flex. A full case locker/LSD and a good differential cover will solve a fair bit of that. Otherwise a simple truss goes a long way if you plan to beat on it. The larger ujoints are the same size as a D44 so not exactly weak. It's no D60 but is decent axle for what it is.

4.10 if you do a lot of hi way travelling, 4.56 for more trail/city, 4.88 if purely a trail rig. But I'm not a fan of the weaker pinion mesh (limited pinion gear contact) with 4.88's on a D30.

Usually they come with a page of stickers to label as required (although all are usually marine oriented).