Rockfrog

I updated to the later model plug, I remove my header whenever I work on the cooling system, or front of the motor, about 4-6 times a year. Simple to remove, and makes life in the engine bay easier. I prefer it to fighting with the closed spaces between a 4.0 and the radiator. But I'm weird like that.

I've always used the Ford FL-1A, but that's just me. Same specs as stock short filter but twice the size.

There are several switches available ... Two for the tilt column, and two for the non tilt column. Yeah, surprised me too ... prices vary with type, the non-tilt intermittent being quite pricey. In the end rather than replace to overpriced Wiper switch I swapped a whole column out. My 88 column was non tilt with intermittent Wiper switch, and I swapped in a 92 tilt with intermittent. Was a $35, 30 minute job compared to a $135 job and hours messing with the column. I have no issue diving into a column, have the tools, patience and enough know how ... But a column from a parts vehicle is usually quicker and cheaper. Were you closer I still have three spare columns ... one non-tilt manual and two tilt one auto, one manual. The only difference is the lockout for auto's which is easily defeated. My 88 has a 92 auto column in it. The columns are pretty near identical 87-93, in 91 they flipped the IGN switch over but the connectors are still the same just upside down and backwards pre and post. In 94 the changed the connectors (and possibly the IGN switch but can't confirm).

I replaced my lines with 5/8" hose all around. Tighter fit on the 3/4" fittings but not an issue with a little lube. Did this for both my 88 MJ open system conversion and my 00 XJ. I also swapped the Renix water pump elbow for a late model HO style elbow when I converted. Gets rid of one move soft hose bend is all.

I solved that issue by swapping in a set of US guages for the oil pressure and the engine temp. Now I can make sense of them now, I didn't grow up completely metric (that was an interesting school year to say the least). Also added a mech oil pressure guage a while back as paranoia set in. Between the exhaust leaks and the piston(s) slap ... I tend to over worry about the old ticker (88 4.0L). But she just keeps moving along.

I swear that was the case with the PO of poor old Ratmanche ... Worst I've ever seen for crud inside any engine. I was amazed the rockers could move. The timing chain cavity was even worse. Sad, sad thing. As the rad crumbled in my hands ... He said "it does run a bit hot" ... Ya think?

Has anyone ever tried using a relay to reroute power to the blower motor? As in before that damn brown wire lights things on fire? I can see I'm walking a fine line as is right now and thought it might work.

Rotella 5w40 synthetic in both my 2000 XJ and my worn out (and I do mean worn out) 1988 MJ. Been thinking of slapping a poor man's backyard 4.7L together using a fairly decent 81 4.2L and an OK 93 4.0L and see what happens. The 4.0 still has decent bores so going to hack it and skip the machining. Will run the 5w40 as well. What's the worst that could happen? Hahaha!

You have to remember that the donor has several trim levels and that the fog light and ambient temp sensor wiring also runs through there. Just concern yourself with the wires you need. Once the harness is in hand and untaped it will start to make sense. I started by matching and splicing the pairs on the XJ side as the XJ runs power in parallel (separate wire for each side and each light). The MJ is far simpler and supplies power in series (so a single wire does both sides lighting). Once you mate the pairs, you have less mess to match up. On the XJ side, all the blacks are grounds, the traces just designate which circuit they ground. Both of the black w/ white trace need to be grounded as they are separate grounds for the signals. When I get the other side of the plug captured, I can do a layman's diagram. I am by no means an electrical professional, so take some of my terminology with a grain of salt. I just tried to make the process as simple as I can. Having a few yards of copper spaghetti in front of you is daunting enough. Best advice I can offer - take your time, Connect the wires by simply twisting and taping at first (hell even some marrets would work to test). Hard splice (solder is my preferred method) when it's all sorted out and working. When in doubt simply follow the wires back to the bulbs. It's only tape holding it all together.

If the rear main doesn't solve that leak look at the distributor (and the usual OFA). Recently had to replace mine as it was leaking like a seive. Leaked worse than my OFA before I replaced the orings. Oils was coming up through the center and filling the dizzy body and leaking through it's drain hole. Mimics an OFA leak to the tee.

I did this to my 88 a year back, luckily I also have a 2000 XJ to use for reference. Out at work now but I'll pop the plugs and snap some pics when I get home next week. I did run into an issue with extra ground wires, originally I followed the corrected layout, but that resulted in one of my signals not working as they are also separately grounded as well. Black with white traces are the signal grounds. I have a connector release tool and moved the lead to correct my pinouts. Everything worked fine once I connected the extra ground. From the MJ (1988). To XJ (2000) replacing the plug as well. Black - black w/ white trace (there will be two of these on the XJ side. Green - black with white trace AND black with orange trace White - orange with black trace AND green Blue - green with black trace AND green with white trace Brown - blue with white trace Grey w/ black trace - brown with yellow trace Green w/ black trace - terminates as dead end (not used) Single wire connections Single (MJ) to paired (XJ) connections If an administrative can merge those it would be great, can't from my phone for some reason. I would suggest replacing the plug as well as the stock plug simply sucks, and is likely corroded to hell. By replacing the plug you eliminate a few discrepancies in part year changes (as long as both sides of the plug come from the same vehicle - mine didn't so I reorganized the wires to match my 2000 XJ). I will try to get the header harness side of the plug soon but it's a really bad time of year really and it's outside in the open ... I admit, pulling the header and unravelling the wiring in a downpour just isn't so appealing to me right now. Sorry.

Yep, I used clear vinyl tubing for mine, works great got it in the general section of my local autoparts place. Doesn't need to be fancy.

The 98 head (0630), intake, and PS pump will also require an adapter for the 89's TPS to mount to the 98 throttle body. Easy enough to do. A new location for the dash Guage temp sender will also need to be addressed. You will also require a new belt for the different routing. And a newer fuel rail from a 91-95 4.0 to be able to adapt the fuel system to the Renix system. The newer (96 up) tensioner design alone is worth the swap in my books. The 98 ZJ pump is the same as a 98 XJ pump so other than being newer, not that different. You're thinking 99+ Grands (WJ) pump as better. I did similar to my 88 ... I used a 92 head, 00 intake, 94 TB and exhaust (not that they are different), 94 fuel rail, and 92 thermostat housing (as I also moved the CTS to the thermostat housing). My build thread has some details and pictures on it. I had to replace my head anyway so for me it was a no brainer. Would I do it all to a perfectly fine running motor ... Not likely, but I was already down to the block. Butt dyno says ... worn out (mirror like cylinder walls) motor more peppier, still gets 18mpg avg (between city/hwy) on JK 32's and stock 3.07's. I plan to pop in a middle aged block shortly (but the damn thing is an energizer bunny, but sounds like a gravel truck) and keep the Frankenstein combination going which should pep it up more. The new block even still has cross hatching ... Yay! Oh, the life of a 4.0L.

A 2wd BA10/5 can be converted to a 4wd by replacing the tailhousing and cutting the output shaft to 1/2" past the mounting surface (in protrusion). Was going to do this myself until I got a AX15 accidently. I have a 4wd tailhousing I was going to use (came with a blown 4wd BA10/5 ... go figure). Now I'm on the hunt for a 23 spline input gear.

I've been quite happy with my Runva's ... Have one on my XJ (9.5XS) and on my Quad (3500). Decent price, decent winch. Good reputation outside of NA as well. And I get lifetime warranty service here in Canada.

I put my front up on axle stands, removed the front axle and pulled the pan. I was doing a bunch of other stuff at the time as well though. Loads of room then.

Try M10x1.50 M10 comes in 3 pitches ... 1.00, 1.25, and 1.50 7/16" is a near exact crossover for 11mm ... and at 14tpi it indicates the M10 coarse (1.50) as most likely. It's the same as the shift lever knob so you can check with that to confirm.

If the the old one from my 88 will work you can have that one. Kept the gasket when I replaced my rear window (after putting an ATV through it).

Yes, I did it on a 92 XJ auto tilt column with the same problem, it currently resides in my 88 5spd MJ now. You need to disassemble past the cams and there is a pin to release the cylinder you need to push in. Then the lock cylinder slides out.

Probably means more the side to side, as it is lifted the Trac bar will pull the axle to the driverside, pulling the passenger side tire further into the wheelwell. The axle will also pull slightly rearward on the passenger side as well. This is why an adjustable Tracbar is always recommended when lifting, to correct the issue.

But many did have them added as a factory TSB ... due to "noisy fuel pumps" so it is possible.

A new pump will offer some amount of resistance, even a good used pump should have some resistance due to the seals. When he says spin freely he does not mean like a pinwheel in the wind. It should spin about as freely as the mechanical fan spins freely.

That is just for the guage/light on the dash. The ECM uses the Coolant Temperature Sensor located as noted above ... Lower middle of Block, just above the motor mount (it goes directly into a water jacket).

Had a mirror pop out of the housing last month, goop to the rescue. Sadly the mechanism inside is rusted to crap, upside is they are super tight. Guess I'll have to start looking for replacements though.

Looks like you have an 89/90 era AX15 ... They had a smaller Pilot diameter vs the 92 and later which were .75" Pilot. Not sure what you need to do there, check advanced adapters for a bushing, I think they have one (was about $10 last I recall). I know a CJ V8 Pilot is used with pre 95 4.0s and a later AX15. But you are adapting the other way.