Comanche County

X2 for the Eagle!

I don't mean to knock someone's work but it reminds me of a Suburu Brat, on a steady diet of cheeseburgers and donuts. Would look better if the cab was more perpendicular to the ground and the top of the bed was more parallel to the ground. The ZJ has much better lines for that conversion.

I'm assuming that you and your buddies were highly inebriated when you painted this rig. That looks like a Pterodactyl flew over and took a crap on it. :doh:

Umm, but it doesn't have 235 hp. No MJ does from the factory.. I just love smelling out a used car salesman.

http://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/3319381760.html 1990 Red Jeep Comanche truck (Rare only 9,576 produced) Engine: Fully Rebuilt Straight 6 Cylinder 235+HP, Less than 1,000 miles on rebuild, serviced regularly Transmission: Good solid transmission, no seal leaks Body: Overall Body is in good shape and straight Electrical: All electrical works including headlights and taillights Interior: Fair condition except the headliner , has aftermarket radio Package: Comes with a tool box already installed, a 2" hitch receiver already installed, American Racing aftermarket rims, New Wide Tires, A/C car BAD: Slight power steering leak, small throttle problem, scratches in paint, dent in bumper, needs speakers ***(Has been used for a work truck) new pictures of the whole truck up soon

There is also a sub caliber bolt and mag that you can add to any Mil-spec M-16 or M-4 variant. Best of both worlds then, you can plink with the .22 or hunt with the .223. If were in the market for either I'd buy Colt or S&W. Those are the best quality IMO.

2 or 3 way speakers have the tweeters attached. The problem with them is that the sound waves from the mids and the tweeters will distort each other. Clearer sound comes from the speakers mounted in separate locations. Also, tweeters send high frequency sound waves in a shallow pattern, imagine around a 20-30 degree V and should be mounted aimed at the driver or passengers, most times the factory mounts them on the dash and the sound bounces off the windshield which can also distort and amplify the sound. Mid range woofers send them out in a much wider V and can be mounted down in the door panels. Sub Woofers send out low frequencies and send sound out in all directions regardless of which way they face...they are omnidirectional. Here's some examples. Two ways...http://www.crutchfield.com/p_206DS60/Kicker-DS60.html?tp=95 A component set...http://www.crutchfield.com/p_206DS62/Kicker-DS6-2.html

I'm confused, someone smarter than me is going to have to chime in. Priming the fuel pump should have nothing to do with the starter not cranking over. But if there's a fuel pressure issue, just to be thorough, you need to do a fuel pressure test. Should be 31 psi IIRC. Check the rest of the Renix sensors too, here's a guide. http://www.lunghd.co...Diagnostics.htm Have you done the basics? Plugs and plug wires are all good? Did you check the grounds? Sometimes a battery checks out on voltage but will not have the amps to actually turn the engine over, amps and volts are two different things.

Honestly, I'd rip out that bypass switch and go get a factory ignition switch (from any parts store) and a complete rod out of a JY XJ. I think this is the root of the problem. Also confirm the battery lead going to the starter isn't frayed somewhere. Inspect the block to firewall ground, and the negative battery cable ground, ensure they're clean. I take it that when it starts it runs fine, is that true?

They're so clean! Tasteful and beautiful!

"Comp" speakers? Are you referring to "Component" speakers? They are mid range speakers with a separate tweeter with a control box, no sub. They are the way to go for clear sound but need a separate sub to hear the whole range. Some of the bigger manufactures make 2 and 3 way speakers that are pretty good. Right now I have some 5.25" kicker 2 ways in the doors and some Kenwood Excelon 4"x6"s in the rear panels. Sounds pretty good on a stock radio with no amp. I think you're just wasting your time with the those speakers, you'll never get good sound from the stock XJ speakers. Either go with basic good quality 2 or 3 way speakers, or go with component sets off an amp and a head unit with at least 4 Pre-outs.

Old Man Emu front coils.

:cheers:

Sounds like someone tried to bypass it. Another thing to look at is the solenoid on the starter. Sometimes the small terminal wires or the terminals themselves get loose. Just happened to me today, they took a little jiggle and it was starting up just fine afterward.

try this....http://www.southeasternaa.com/ It was going to go for about 3K IIRC.

Try swapping in another relay. Could be a relay but they don't burn out very often. Follow all the wires going back to the pump and look for a short or worn wire. But, could just be time for a new fuel pump.

There's an 01' LT1 powered Firebird at the Southwest auto auction in Savannah, runs awesome. http://www.southeasternaa.com/ It may have sold, but its worth a call.

:wrench: :wrench: :thumbsup:

The girlfriend has an 01' 323i with an A5S 360R automatic, its not shifting or going in gear. Evidently it was ran dry. I plan to pull it and replace, but could be a solenoid or something, I don't know yet, haven't seen it. I'm gonna pick it up later this week. I've read its also a GM transmission. Is there another GM donor that might have one? Tips, advice?

Some will bolt right in, if they were behind the same transmission. But sometimes the input shaft needs to be changed out. For instance if you're putting a 242 from a AW4 behind a 46RE. http://kevinsoffroad.com/techarticles/Solitude%20242%20swap/249-242_swap.html http://www.cardomain.com/ride/771987/1998-jeep-grand-cherokee/page-3 http://cherokeekid5.tripod.com/t_case.htm http://jeephorizons.com/tech/tcase.html

Man I'd take those long shackles off the back, seems like the SOA went too high. Easy fix. You can get a new output shaft seal and that should solve the leak, the front slip does seem like its pulled downward on the seal because of the lift. It also looks like there's not a lot of travel left in the slip. I'd dump the long shackles, then get a TJ front slip yoke they're longer. That should bring the drive shaft back to a better angle and solve your leak problems until you get a SYE.

Should be a perfect match. What happened to the old one?

Is the 249 behind a 44RE?

If you're concerned about extra strength, you could add some plates to the front spring eyelet mounts and you can also add a plate to act as a skid plate on the front eyelet. Then make/or order some aftermarket rear shackles. I have JKS shackles, much beefier than stock. You can get them from just about any vendor.

One of my all time favorite MJs and a huge inspiration for me!