Comanche County

Did you figure it out?

Good ideas, thanks!

Nice truck, what kind of wheels are those?

Yeah nice work!

Love watching this truck!

Welcome to CC! Keep the posts coming, lovin the portals.

Nice wheelin pics, thanks for posting those!

So nice, such a cool truck!

Time to replace the MJs cracked window and door seals. Anyone recommend a supplier with quality parts? I could grab some JY stuff, but I want new rubber.

Just put a bench in mine, I think the bench offers more leg room. I'm 6'2", but I've been working really hard on my beer belly and I'm very proud of my work. So my leg room ideas may be slightly skewed.

Perhaps a rear main that is starting to leak?

Sounds like what a 44RE was doing, eventually the Jeep wouldn't even move. The TCC fault is the Torque Convertor Clutch Solenoid. Sometimes its just the solenoid and its a cheap fix and you don't have to drop the transmission, sometimes its the convertor itself, lots more work. That is if that's the issue... :dunno:

Yeah lots of guys have done it. But its best to find 2-door XJ seats because they flip forward. But ZJ leather seats are easier to find and they tilt forward quite a bit, not as much as MJ seats but far enough to get behind them.

You need a T-50 torx bit to remove the seat belts, then a #2 phillips and all the panels will come off in no time. If its the wall to wall rubber, then yes, it should pull up from the panels, but its best to remove them so you don't crack any of them.

throw any codes? Specifically TCC failure?

Picture? The ebrake cable is bolted to the floor of the MJ and routed under the drivers seat under the carpet. The Ebrake mechanism is sort of a booger to get out if you have to work around the seat. If you have a few hours available, remove the drivers seat (or bench) pull the carpet, check for rust. The cable may be repairable, but if its all rusty the cable sleeve will be toast. I'd go with Remi's idea if it looks ugly under there.

If you didn't keep the bearings and the connecting rods in order and reassemble exactly as it was before you're risking spinning/burning a bearing. Might be best just to take it to a reputable machine shop and have them reassemble it for you. Should cost around 300 bones for a complete reassembly, plus any other machine work. Connecting rod, bearing and crank endplay is a precise measurement. Best not to wing it. If you removed the crank, you might as well put in new bearings, but the crank journals need to be mic'd, depending on wear, they may need to be re-ground which would require oversized bearings.

Really can't diagnose it without hearing it. Take it back to the shop that did the rebuild for you and tell them to diagnose and fix it and be very upfront about it, they should warrantee their work.

Yeah, check the FSM for connecting rod and crank tolerances. They're very important for a smooth running engine. New bearings right, did you have the crank machined?

If you're not familiar with the various tapping and knocking sounds, go get a stethoscope from any autoparts store. Listen close and try to isolate where the noise is coming from. If its on the top like you think and is more of a tapping sound, it could be as simple as taking the valve cover off and torquing the rocker arms to spec. Worse case, could be a bent valve or broken pushrod...hard to diagnose without hearing it. But a broken valve or pushrod will effect the idle. I'm thinking its just a rocker arm.

Does it look like one of these? Top, MJ, Bottom is from a WJ.

You can pull the old distributor where it is as long as the new distributor goes in with the rotor pointing at the exact same same spot. But I always rotate the engine until the #1 cylinder is a at top dead center, mark where the rotor is pointing, then pull the dizzy, and replace. If the old coil pack is still on the inner fender well then use it, if not, 15 bucks and a trip to the JY and you're set.

I think I'd ditch the aftermarket HEI distributor and put a stock one back on. Not sure what kind you've got but I've had one where the coil under the distro cap was bad causing all sorts of bad running issues. Go back to stock, the stock ignition system isn't too bad at all and cheap as dirt. There's no reason to run some crazy distributor on an otherwise stock engine.

Yes, check fuel pressure. Check the spark plug wires, you didn't mention those. Check the vacuum lines to the MAP. You can refer to this guide to confirm if your sensors are working: http://www.lunghd.co...Diagnostics.htm

So drool worthy. :drool: