Comanche County

Man, I want an M-416 like that 3B is hauling!!!! :drool: :drool:

Its crazy, there are 70s and 80s Chevy trucks getting the hot rod treatment and going for 15-25K in auctions nowadays. Idiots IMHO....

Good idea!

Jay

That's one of my nightmare scenarios. I'm always concerned some teenage girl is going to texting and slam into and underneath the back of my MJ. The scary part is my bumper is at windshield height for most small cars, and it won't bend at all.

Nice, looks like your MJ decided to let the flatties do some work.

When I wiggled the RR Wipe fuse it caused the radio to go on and off. Once I discovered that I used a multi-meter to check all the fuses and found that the radio fuse had no power going through it. The RR Wipe fuse opening is not used in the MJ and only has one female clip, a fuse was in it anyway, but that clip also shares power with the radio fuse. If you look at the back of the fuse block, you'll see that several of the fuses share power from the same strip. Hard to explain without a good pic, but look at your fuse block and you'll see that they are in line with each other. Turns out the female ends of the radio fuse were a little loose and it wasn't making good contact with the radio fuse so when I wiggled the RR wipe fuse it was pushing the radio fuse to contact. I clean up the fuse block and used a small screw driver to bend all the female contacts in the fuse block so that the fuses were nice and snug. Simple really. I was just scratching my head because I knew I had a good radio fuse. Another clue was that the cigarette lighter also draws power through the radio fuse and it wasn't working either. Now the radio works and I can charge my iphone.

I got it figured out all is well now.

Gents, My radio is cutting out, I'm having a problem with the "switched on" 12V wire going to the radio. Sometimes it gets ~12V while the key is on or in the acc position, but now its only getting ~2v and the radio is not turning on. My gut is telling me the problem is related to my melted and contorted fuse block. When I bought the MJ long ago it had a leaky Clutch master and the fuse block felt the pain. My question is, where does the Switched On radio wire draw power from? I could hot wire the radio but I want the radio to turn off with the key. The fuse block has plenty of constant 12V terminals but I want it to work correctly with the key. My main fear is there is some sort of electrical issue that could burn down the truck. So at the very least, now I'm in the market for a fuse block in good condition. The second priority is tracking down that darn wire and figuring out why its not getting power when it should so I can listen to some tunes. Any ideas? Thanks, Jay

Just drop the transmission and the TC, it doesn't take that long. You'll need everything out of the way to do the throwout bearing. You'll need to inspect the inside of the bellhousing anyway. Plus, while you're in there you should go ahead and replace everything, clutch, PP, and the PILOT BEARING! Sometimes the pilot bearing can be a bugger to get out. Some pilot bearing pullers won't do the job and you'll have to drill a small hole in it, then chisel and break it into pieces to completely remove it. No easy way to wiggle it in there, just drop everything and replace with new parts. You'll thank yourself later.

If there's a fuel problem it will reflect in the condition of the plugs, whether they're rich or lean. To check the fuel pressure you just need a gauge, they're available at any autoparts store. Post a pic of the engine, what does it look like? Is it clean or has it been ran hard and put up in an oily and unsatisfied state? What I'm getting at is, is the engine on its last leg? What's the compression per cylinder?

Sir, get with Exxon Valdez Jeep, he's got a full width 60 on his XJ that I believe will end up under his MJ soon... Dylan will see this I'm sure,,,,and I just want to remind him that he owes me some beer...for what you might ask, no particular reason, I just think that he does. :cheers:

The JY didn't charge me for those btw. Same as belts, I've got more spare serpentines than I can count.

Against my better judgement of posting a close up picture of my MJ, (because its best viewed from 50 feet away), here's a close up of the later XJ seals on the MJ. Note the quarter windows, I cut the seals off at that point with an angle grinder cutting blade and just left the outer moulding portion. The quarter windows have there own seal so it wasn't critical. Just be judicious with the knife or cutting wheel and be carefull trimming the seals. I'm sure someone may have done it different but I was happy with this. Also, there is nothing keeping the front remaining portion of the newer seals connected to the doors, I just bent the metal until it was relatively straight but bent into the door with a little bit of pressure. You could use a small bead of rtv along the two seals at the quarter window to keep the remaining portion of the new seal glued to the door tightly, although I didn't, just now thought of it. This eliminated the clips and the seals on the window are a much improved design over the original seals. Not my idea at all, I got it from that link I posted above. Jay

Nice write up! :thumbsup:

Good idea!

Good write up!

Just replaced mine with some decent seals from a 99' XJ. I had to trim it around the quarter windows because the newer XJ didn't have them. The newer XJ seals are much better and eliminate the metal clips. http://comancheclub.com/topic/35321-vendor-for-door-window-seals/page__hl__window+seals

According to their website, it's a model of an ME 109. http://mightyeighth.org/exhibits/#combat-gallery

Yeah there's no belt for the generator, it must obviously be gear driven internally.

Don't know why I didn't guess a generator? Duh!

and finally some stupid German plane.

Okay, technically not a Jeep but thought I'd post some pics of something I'd never seen or heard of before. If you've ever heard of Crosley's mini cars of the 40s-50s, then you may recognize the name. I went to a fundraiser for the Eighth Army Air Force Museum and found this little baby sitting in a corner. Fortunately the curators never approached me as I opened the hood, crawled underneath and sat in it. Its really small, about the size of large four wheeler. Made lightweight for the old C-47s, this thing is really small. Just some things I noticed. It has elliptical leafs, full time 4x4, a two cylinder engine producing 13 hp with two electrical starter type motors on the engine, mechanical brakes, unknown axles...I was expecting a Dana 18 TC but its something else entirely, I don't know the TC model. It has canvas fenders, standard DT military tires, and a 3 speed transmission. I took a chance and sort of helped myself to it, thankfully I didn't get ushered out. Sorry, some of the pics are bad, one of these days I'll get a charger for my real camera, Iphone cameras stink. Also, there's a few pics of some other stuff at the museum, a B17 G model currently under restoration and a Merlin and an Allison engine. Enjoy. The TC You can see the linkage for the starter motor here, you actually pull a knob in the dash to engage the starter. View of the other side of the starter motor. There's no radiator, just a small coolant tank behind the grill in the bottom of the photo. You can also see the other starter motor on the front of the engine, I don't know what the function of it is????? View of the front of the engine. Entire engine bay. Has a vinyl windshield. Its about 3.5' wide. Front grille view. Front passenger open knuckle. Note the unique kingpin assemblies. Front diff, identical to the rear diff. No U-joints on the front driveshaft. View from the rear. Very cool gauges IMO. No tailgate, and a canvas padded rear seat. Their B17 project....

Good work.

If ya got a bashed up Libby then what the heck. Go for it.