87Warrior

Integrated or External rear pod, when compared to the head liner? I have the integrated version in a 99 I will let go.

You will also want to drain the cylinders of oil. In a roll, oil will seep into the cylinders. Sometimes the oil will cause a hydrolock, other times not. Good luck getting the rig, officially :yes: I guess at this point you might be able to get away with a $1 scratch ticket thing. I know nothing about the lottery or gambling :rotfl2:

You need to buy a lottery ticket now!!!! That is darn cool,

I remember seeing that a few months back somewhere. I agree that safety has come a long way in the automobile industry... but it was pointless to destroy a classic car to 'visually' show that it has.

Had 2 of the small Nylint Jeeps and 1 of the big ones... The two little ones have been built into one rig with rear steer, but the battery life sucks. Big one broke a front axle on day 2, never could get parts for a reasonable price so I lost interest. Image Not Found I would love to get into RC Crawling, but with two Jeeps to maintain/work on/mod..... not sure where I would find the extra $$$ or time.

Have a set on my parts rig. Driver side in in good shape. Passenger side suffered from a rollover and tore a piece of the bulb at the top. Could be yours for the cost of packing/shipping if you think it is worth the time to pull.

I am very interested in seeing how you retrofit the TJ tank in the truck. If the dimensions are that close, it should be a piece of cake. Be sure to post lots of pictures!

Had a pair of the Rubicon Express SS brake lines on my TJ. One day I was driving in town, when a Toyota cut me off going down a steep hill... Pressed the brakes and pedal went to the floor. Luckily I was able to cross the double yellow and down shift to a near stop. The line burst from the inside out. The lines were only a few years old. I always inspected the steel braids when greasing the chassis and they were smooth and in good shape. Replaced with JKS lines and have had no problems in the last few years.

You can also place the 5gallon tank under the truck to drain the fuel tank. Just pull the rubber hose that comes out of the fuel pump. Easy to access and the length is just right to drain into a 5gallon tank with the plastic spout pointed up. Wish I would have saw this thread before I drained my tank.... key on, off, on... repeat :ack:

Check for rust! Rockers, cab corners, around the rear flares. I bought a 'rust free' truck 1 year ago.... Both of my rockers are rusted out and the rear wheel wells are rusted out. Don't get distracted with a good running motor :nuts: You found the best corner of the internet! Comanche Club rocks

Gah, I wish it would snow like that!!!!! All we get is a few inches in the morning the turns everything into a melted muddy mess in the afternoon.

Sure thing I'd like to see some pictures. Thanks!

Today I started tearing down the truck and noticed my passenger side taillight is missing a 2x2" chunk of the back housing. So I am in need of a decent taillight. I will even buy a set if you have one. Willing to pay for shipping to 66514. Thanks

Nearly 24 years old and Type I diabetic. Was diagnosed 4 years ago after a bad case of strep throat. What is more :nuts: is the amount of $$$$ I put into this old, extinct truck from an extinct manufacturer.

Keep your spirits up. A good attitude is the best medicine! :yes: I hope you can get out of there in a reasonable amount of time. We at comancheclub will be pulling for you

I find it rather interesting how few 91 MJs have been touched by the hand of CC members. It is also interesting to note that once somebody has a 92 they generally don't want to let it go! Can't wait for the final statistics.

Current and only 1992 Base Longbed, 4.0, AW4, NP231, D30/35, 3.55's, bench seat, rear 4 piece slider (unknown if factory). (9/91 Manufacture Date)

Man, that truck looks like a million bucks! You probably need an adjustable trackbar to get the front axle centered. Also, consider the Raptor U-Pol liner for your bed. I outline the steps in my build, linked in my signature. It looks better than LineX in my opinion.

Nice. I am glad to see that with $40K extra dollars they were able to fix the UGLY Camaro back end. I am sorry, but it looks like it belongs on a Japanese import. I have always been a Camaro fan :ack: but the modern Challenger is a much better looking car.

I picked up the bed from your truck when it was being parted. It turned out great :yes: By all means, stick around :thumbsup:

Avoid the 00/01 (maybe 02??) 4.0L. Poor head design leads to cracking. 97-99 use a distributor ignition 00-06 use a coil pack ignition 00-04 uses the NV3550 5speed. Much nicer than the AX15 from my experience. 05-06 has the 6speed. 97-02?? 3spd Automatic 03-06 4 spd Automatic (Not an AW4, 42LE) 03-06 use a different transmission skid plate, hangs down lower than previous years 03-06 are the golden years (Rubicon). If you don't plan to go huge (+35/37's) and it is in your price range, pick one up. 03-06 have redesigned seats/mounting, a new windshield header (97-02 tops won't bolt on), radio bezel cut out is round, cab vents moved to tailgate from hardtop 03-06 Soft top design is much improved and nearly as quiet as a hardtop!!!!! 97-06 can be found with a D35 or D44 I am back to DD'ing my TJ since the MJ is being torn apart. Even with 35's, I am not afraid to cruise down the interstate at 75mph. Plus it rides much smoother than my worn out MJ does and the interior is much more comfortable.

This evening I returned from a quick ski trip to Steamboat Springs, Colorado. Snow was nice, but not enough. Weather was fantastic for skiing all day. Naturally we took the XJ on the 10 hour drive. Unnaturally we had some issues. Quick history of the Jeep Purchased the 1993, 4.0L, 2door, Sport, with 70K miles 5 years ago from a neighbor who moved here from Denver. He said the only thing they did to the Jeep was have AC installed and had a Tape deck put in. The AC system looks very factory, so we assume it was a Mopar kit and dealer installed. Ever since we have owned the XJ it had a few annoying issues. The Radio could not pick up many FM stations and the Blower motor would kick on if the key was turned back to ACC. (is this normal for the XJ/MJ?) The radio would also quit transmitting sound randomly; summed it up as an old radio. We installed a Mopar cruise control kit 4 years ago, very easy and straight forward. A few weeks back I pulled the tape deck from the XJ and installed the CD player that was in the MJ. Plugged right in and worked great. Perfect, tunes for road trips The issue After 6.5 hours of driving we made it to Denver, CO. Needing to switch lanes I press the blinker right to make a safe lane transition. When I pressed the stalk, the radio shut off for a split second and resumed playing. Nobody else noticed so I figured I was loosing my mind. Made it through the city and started up the long strech of I70 to the tunnel. Had cruise set at 65mph, transmission in "D". We start driving into some fog so I decide to kick the head light on. Pulled the switch and the radio turns off completely AND the engine looses all power, like the key was turned off. A 1/2 second later the Jeep is resuming to the set 65mph. We continue on to the 'Boat without issue and a record 24mpg on 85 octane. Head to downtown that night for some dinner. Drive the XJ, park, eat, and return to the Jeep. The radio does not come on. No big deal, the hotel is just a few minutes down the road. I hit the left blinker and nothing happened. Pull up, repeat, and the signal flashes. Go skiing and don't give the XJ much thought. Sure, the radio did not fire up when headed to the slopes in the morning, but I was more focused on the edging my skis received. Dinner time rolls back around we head back to downtown. Now when the turn signals are activated they do a 'fast flash' like LED's have been installed. I check the bulbs and they are functioning properly. I wind up at NAPA to buy some wire, electrical tape, and a fuse holder to at least get the radio working for the 10 hour drive home. Snipped the 'Switched ACC' power wire from the radio and tapped it to the cigar lighter to see if it would fire up. Nothing. Patched the wire then sniped the 'Constant Power from Batt' wire and tapped into the cigar lighter. Presto, the radio kicks on but losses all settings when the key is switched off because the cigar lighter is switched. Button everything up to make sure there are no short possibilities. At this point the turn signals flash at a slightly faster than normal speed, but much slower than a 'fast flash'. Drive home with this set up and encounter no problems. Only squeezed out 21mpg on the 85 octane due to strong crosswinds. Cliff notes - 1993, 4.0L, 2door, Sport, 117K - Used the blinker and the radio briefly shut off - Pulled the headlight switch and lost the radio and engine power (like the key was turned off) for a brief second - Radio refuses to come on; no lights, no-nothin' - Blinkers experience 'No Flash' and 'Fast Flash' - Removed the 'Constant Power from Battery' wire from the radio harness and tapped into the cigar lighter. Radio works. - 21mpg and 24mpg bests in the XJ with 3 adults and skis up top How in the world should I try to diagnose this? I can read and understand wiring diagrams and am comfortable with a multimeter, but I cannot even figure out where to look or what to test. Any direction is much appreciated :yes:

Removing the seat back is the best idea ever! Why didn't I think of that.

Don't even need a helper Don :rotf: 1. Remove the seat nuts (8) 2. Push seatbelt buckles through the seat to the floor of the cab 3. Break seat loose 4. Fold the back forward 5. Lift up on the front of the seat 6. Push like heck to get it out the passenger door This is how I have done it in my truck.

Whats better than an MJ? A free MJ :ack: Welcome to the club. You found the right place for useful information.