87Warrior

Factory? Dealer installed? Something from the mid 90's? I don't know. My rear slider also sits out about 3/4" and the gasket around the window frame is rubber. It was on the truck when I bought it. Edit: Wow, my 1,000th post!!!

I have one sitting in the garage. They are a little taller than factory and have a diamond plate top. The MJ bumper is the same as their Dakota bumper with different brackets. The brackets seem really thin, so I will get a set made of more substantial material when the time comes. They may be on par with OEM, but I do not have anything to compare them with. Rumor has it that they are prone to rust on the inside and should be repainted prior to installation.

It provides a tow point for your 87 octane burning Jeep to pull it around.

Well. Hmm. At least the accident won't occur above 45mph...

He is correct, the XJ rear bumper and hitch do not work on the MJ. In fact, finding a new MJ receiver hitch is impossible now that U-Haul quit selling them. Somebody on the forum did manage to mount one of those 'universal' fit receiver hitches on their truck. Here he flipped the receiver to tuck it up behind the bumper instead of allowing it to hang below: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=6514&hilit=+hitch You can get a new rear bumper from Fey, that is tow rated. However, this set up similar to the factory MJ bumper in that it is far to weak to tow anything worth while and will taco the bumper.

You've got the engine, engine harness, and ECU. You will need the dash wiring (complete dash would be easiest), TCU (the wiring is probably attached to the engine harness), steering column, updated radiator parts, and your fuel tank parts. Then its just a matter of piecing it together and building the XJ->MJ cross over harness. Then again, $500 for a nearly fresh 4.0 is a great deal.

When you go to pull the dash harness, just leave the wires attached to the dash assembly. To remove the dash, you will need to pull the steering column (you will need this anyway), loosen two 15mm bolts at each corner/foot well and the 10mm bolts holding it up under the windshield. Rotate around those 15mms to gain access behind the dash to unplug the vacuum lines and wiring harness. Once loose, remove 15mm bolts and dash will be ready to pull out. The TCU will be a 4x6 gray box with plug, located behind the lower dash valance to the right of the ash try. Yes, it can be done by yourself.

At the rate used car dealers sell and swap rides, it is probably a legitimate deal. When I was MJ shopping, I stupidly payed that much for my 92 with 185K miles, 3 accidents on record, no rear bumper, and a power steering hose that leaked like a sieve. When I brought it home and inspected, I found the body was rotted as all get out. Oh well! I think my truck is more rotted than that one. If the mileage checks out, I would go for it. Its not a stellar deal, but not terrible either.

You know, this is an option I am considering. I have understood that bed liner is not a replacement for undercoating like a lot of folks think. It usually does not 'stick' as well on the under carriage because folks spend less time preparing and whined up with problem area. However, I can see the same thing happening with undercoating as well. I will be starting basically new, with a solid POR15 coat. My speculation is with a good POR15 coat, anything applied over it will just be additional protection. My truck has/had the original factory rubberized undercoating. Having grown up in rural KS, gravel roads are the normal, I did notice my MJ transmitted much less noise when gravel hits the under carriage than my TJ does (which only has a painted under carriage). I also plan on taking the truck through Colorado's back country trails/roads, which often times are several miles of fine gravel. Now my mind wonders if a tough/hard bed liner would provide the same 'rock-to-metal' cushion as a rubberized undercoating. Yes, I do realize the rubberized undercoatings do turn pretty solid them selves. Maybe I should do small-scale product testings on some of the junk body panels I have laying around. Could make for an educational weekend :hmm:

The transmission should bolt to the 4.0 with little to no problem. The transfercase will probably fit with few issues (the angle the TJs tranferscae is clocked at might require floor pan modifications). Does the 32rh retrieve information from the PCM to shift? I know little about this transmission besides it behavior on road. However.... Why install the dreaded 32rh in an MJ? The AW4, which is arguably a better transmission, is bolt in and can be found in most XJs and most MJs. It is controlled by a TCU separately from the PCM. You would need to tap into the existing harness for the TCU to obtain signals needed to operate properly. Or find an XJ and adapt the underhood harness/TCU to the MJs interior harness (they are almost identical). You have a pretty rare MJ. Not only are 92s highly regarded, but to find one with the stock 5spd (AX15) is even more rare

I have seen a few clusters with those overlays and think they look very sharp. Unfortunately I have never used the products personally. Of the styles they sell, the white faced 84-87 style looks the best, imo.

Thanks for the reply Jim. What you said is very logical. Does anybody have a recommendation for a quality rubberized under coating? I would like to research some of the recommended brands. This project is at least a month out.

:D :D :D :ack: :ack: :ack: :ack: :thumbsup: That is awesome man. PICS PICS PICS! We want pics. Lets hope its not a Fey :typing:

I highly doubt you will find anything for the MJ cargo light. They are VERY rare. I would rather cut a hole in the topper for the cargo light to peer through. Seal the edges around the light opening with some weather stripping for a tight fit. Or remove the light and trace the shape on to a piece of thin steel and cut to fit. Drill a hole for the cargo light wiring to pass through with rubber gromet. Do the same for the topper and mount the cargo light inside.

Get your self the adapter/harness. It will make the install much simpler and less frustrating. Get the proper installation kit to hold the radio in the dash as well.

What are your opinions on the different undercoating options out there? Soon my trucks undercarriage (frame rails, floor pan, inner fender-wells) will be blasted and covered with POR15. Initially I had planned on top-coating using the POR15 Chassis Coat. As I get more meticulous and picky with what happens to my truck, I have started to wonder if a rubberized type of undercoating would be a better option. Obviously if I go this route, the initial coat of POR15 would be treated with their Tie coat primer then undercoated. Either way the undercarriage will have two layers of protection. What I am after is understanding the different types of under coating out there and what their purpose is. There is a reason vehicles are not just painted with a durable paint on the chassis, but why? Does the rubberized coating prevent corrosion? Chips? Sound deadening? What is its purpose? Lets say the consensus is that undercoating is not only beneficial, but necessary, what would you use to coat the undercarriage of your truck?

Would I? No. I have mixed feelings about RE. Ran their kit on my TJ (8 adjustable CAs, front/rear TB, coils, brake lines). Only the coils and front TB remain. Parts kept failing regularly (1-3months) and a brake line burst (from the inside out) on me in a college town on game day. They did a good job and sending me bushings every 3 months (for a year) until I sold the arms. The coils have a great ride and match my OME shocks great. I have 70K miles on my RE coils and they have sagged down to a nice 3"s from 3.5"s. I do not believe there is any 'perfect' or 'best' out of the box lift. Build to suite. Buy used parts when possible (budget for new joints/bushings) to save cash.

Unfortunately I believe Charly plagued with a malfunctioning Renix ignition system with 20 years of neglect. I can see how it could cause frustration. It could of been as simple as a CPS or as difficult to find as a loose factory splice or fuseable (not blown) link. Easy repair? SURE! Tracking down the problem is what separates the shade-tree mechanics from the passionate Jeep people. It is him writting off the entire Jeep brand that gets to me. I mean heck, just try to compair an '80s Jeep to a '10s (today) Jeep or a classic '50s. Sure they may have aesthetic similarities, but parts wise I doubt anything will swap and they were all built by very different companies. To each his own. I truly hope our old comrade is able to fill that void he was hoping to fill with the MJ.

These were my thoughts exactly! Jeeps are not for everybody, I certainly hope your old MJ found its way into somebody's heart who possess the Jeep passion. You just didn't have it in you! Enjoy Toyota and Ford. My wife's Camry has left her stranded twice in the last 4 years. How many times has a Jeep left me stranded in that time? Not once. Just because her car has failed on us, we have not written off the brand. Afterall, batteries and belts are known to go bad and are an easy fix. Farewell, I hope the new owner funds his/her way to the club with the look in their eye of a little kid on Christmas morning.

You might want to pick up some new head bolts as well. Their general age and the excessive heat would be enough justification for me to replace them. Seems like you have a good idea of what to expect. I would suggest hosing the intake/exhaust manifold bolts with PB for a few days. My guess is that this will cause you the most headache and frustration.

Thanks man. I am real anxious to get the truck back on the road, but I just can't rush it. The darn floors are taking much longer than I had expected to take out, postponing the soda blasting and getting the chassis coated with POR15 prior to taking it to the body shop. I am still aiming for it to end up at the body shop around the first of the year. Soon enough :brows:

Trust me, my arms are full! I also have the AC system and power steering stuff too. If you happen to miss out on that 91, give me a shout if you want the parts.

You have peaked my interest. Subscribing so I don't miss any details!

I have been quietly thinking about adapting an XJ roof rack to my truck for some time. It would be used to transport skis and nothing else. The problem is I don't think there would be enough space between the crossbars to secure the ski properly. Throwing them in the bed is not really an option for me. At least my TJ has a ski rack.

Clayton, Rubicon Express, and Rustys (probably more) make a long arm kit for the XJ/MJ that are built like that. Its your typical 5-link long arm set up.