yxmj

If you are in a bind you might try the hose used under the hood on the windshield washer fluid nozzles.....the only thing that might be an issue is that most vacume lines are a bit heavier wall to keep the tubing from collapsing in on itself under vacuum..... a second thought is the tubing that comes with air shocks.....you would need a small piece of hose at each end for a coupler.....but like i said in a pinch it might get you going . :MJ 1: .

if the resistor is bad it should still work on high speed. I am up in Canada and My Yj blower (same resistor principle) has been hot wired to a toggle switch for 3 years.....

I think I would interpret this info to mean yes :crossfingers: http://www.jeeptech.com/trans/

Thanks Guys that made for a good read. ( the best part I saw was the black Friday sale..... :banana: ...) Looks like the paypal account get a work out

Has any body ordered from this site.....i am familiar withe the Aussi and need a little lunchbox to stick in a 2WD MJ .....my main question is delivery time anybody have input? http://lokka.com/site/

The thermal sensor triggers a relay. More than likely the relay is stuck Isn't that relay right there on the driver side inner fender?. If your relay is there that would be an easy solution......figure out the trigger wire ftom the sensor....replace that with a lead that runs to a toggle in the cab....the other side of the toggle run to an accessory output on your fuse panel....that would give you manual control; from the cab that turns off with your ignition......or just add a small relay to the fender wired the same way

You might try searching XJ or YJ covers for the same years they should work if you find them

Thanks for the tip PMJ.....having lost a few small parts in my day I was all ready set up similar to what you described. Another removal tip.....the switch we took off in the JY was off a trans that was out and easy to get at so we could experiment. My son found a posting on a cherokee site that worked but I would have one comment. Take out the adjustment (small) bolt first.....go heavy on the penetrating oil on the shaft and the large nut.....now un-thread the nut just enough that you can slip a large flat screw driver or prybar in and using the lip of the trans (were the pan bolts up) as a fulcrum....CAREFULLY pry it off....the one part I would add with this method is that you would run the risk of breaking one or more of the 4 threaded "Teeth" that the nut holds to the shaft....we were lucky.... All lights work.....as well as the neutral saftey......and it might be my imagination congratulating me on a job done....but i tink it is faster to catch when starting too??? :banana: . :MJ 1: .

Thanks Gentlemen One thing that I forgot to mention that would not be a problem in Prescott or Paradise is that i was attempting this maneuver laying under the truck in the snow with the outside temp at -7 Fahrenheit. ( so the bare finger trick only lasted till they froze :yes: ) So here is my "New Trick" I took 2 5/16 flat washers and welded them offset all the way to one side to 2 small chunks of steel rod. This allowed me to work one washer in and pry on the rod till i could get the other in. Worked them around until they were across from each other and pryed suddenly ...pop...off it came. Giving it a soak now and will give it a clean to see if it can be re-used ....if not Parts Source is open till 5 Thanks again. . :MJ 1: .

Son started having no back up lights....by wiggling the shifter (auto trans) we could get them to work sometimes so we figures it was the Nuetral saftey (back up switch). He found a nice write up on a cherokee forum on how to remove it and followed it....it was when he could not get it off i became involved....from what i can see he followed the instructions to a tee. I can get my fingers on it and get it to wiggle but for the life of me can't get it to slide off. It seems to me i removed and cleaned on of these about 5 years ago and from what i recall it was easy and fast. What are we missing.....anybody have advice or tricks? . :MJ 1: . THANKS

And fyi you do not have to just watch for jeep injectors in the JY Dodge neon as well as ford injectors are regularly swapped in during stroker builds

Check you vin # here http://www.comanchemj.1hwy.com/custom3.html

Uncompressed height is only one of the factors (parameters) you need to know. You also need to know the diameter of the wire and the number of coils. Yes i understand that ( I tried to lay that groundwork in the original post)....just looking for a cross section of info to have data to work from. is there anyone who has a known 3" lift spring that can give me a height to start with :???:

Looking for a bit of info.......I want to start by saying that I do understand that different springs will have different rates and compress differently. What i am looking for is an out of truck measurement for a front coil that gives you 3" lift in a 4L MJ. I have a chance to go through a pile from a jeep hoarder and I want to make fast decisions and fast purchases......anybody have any. Please if possible list the manufacturer and total out of truck uncompressed height.....Thanks . :MJ 1: .

Living a bit North of you I can speak from experience. There are hotter thermostats available so changing is an option. The other thing I just did on my sons XJ ( and it worked so well I am doing it on the wife's tonight) is I went down to the car wash (or if you have your own) Pop off both heater hoses (make sure your heater was set to on and hot before you shut down) and the top rad hose at the T' stat hosing. Blast the car wash trough your heater core both ways until the water runs clear. Blast the water down the rad cap hole until the water runs clear out of the heater hose....cost me $4 for an economy coolant system flush. Replace all and fill up with correct anti-freeze. Made the heat so hot you could weld with it! There are pleanty of after market winter fronts that are easy to install. If you want to try to see if the "Cardboard Wintertization Program" is for you here are a couple of tips... 1) Cut a piece of cardboard the same size as your front exposed fin area on your rad. Cut a 8" circle (or square if your not crafty) directly in line with your mechanical fan. 2) It is easier to stick the cardboard in from the bottom, just slide it up, there are actually a couple of little "lips" there so if you cut it right it will just sit in there. 3) Take it for a test drive and see how it does ( I have done this a lot of times with various vehicles with great success) 4) For looks spray bomb the cardboard flat black and nobody will be the wiser. FYI .....on my YJ I fabbed up a piece of galvanized sheet metal instead of card board....been using it for 5 years

X2 look at my avitar pic....lifting the front made it look level

V8 ZJ in the Front....about 1.25" of lift :thumbsup:

A quick Google says under the hood fuse #25

Just a thought but check the fuse panel by the passenger kick plate...is there a fuse tags fog (running?) lights? If it is there is you have it made in the shade. (I would bet it is there) :thumbsup:

Half a tank of Gas.....Half a pack of smokes.....and half a can of WD........looks like your ready to ROCK :thumbsup: . :MJ 2: .

I will edit as Ronnie is correct

Sorry you had a bad experience…..almost all alternators on all vehicles have replaceable brushes. Most jeeps are around the $8- $12 range http://www.autopartsnetwork.com/jeep-comanche-rx-103-alternator-brush-set/bvbF_WdgtFqlUp Here is a general guideline (this is a newer Cherokee but the basic steps are the same) This covers a complete rebuild but if you do not have bearing issues then just look at the parts related to brush removal and replacement. Once the alternator is out it is just 4 bolts to remove the back cover and 3 screw to remove the brush holder (YOU DO NOT HAVE TO DO ANY MORE BEYOND THAT IF YOU ARE JUST REPLACING THE BRUSHES) http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/rebuilding-nippon-denso-alternator-00-01-56041822aa-835511/ . :MJ 1: . Maybe on Nippo Denso alternators used on HO engines. My Renix uses an AC Delco unit, and it is not a simple "remove three screws and the back cover comes off". The brushes are still in the back, but the only way to get to them is from the front by distmantling the entire unit. Well I am sorry your alternator has been such a bad experience for you. But for all those who don't have the extra cash to pay a mechanic .....or who like me just like to roll up their sleeves and get the satisfaction of manning up and fixing something themselves..... here is a good write up on how to rebuild the Delco model.....once out of the truck....$15-$25 and about 30 mins work http://tc.wagoneer.org/2012/08/delco-alternator-rebuild-guide.html http://www.ebay.ca/itm/10SI-12SI-Delco-Alternator-Rebuild-kit-12-Volt-Chevy-brushes-bearings-regulator-/190618856210?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c61c4eb12&vxp=mtr&_uhb=1 :thumbsup: . :MJ 1: . :thumbsup:

I have found that when the red lights flash in my rearview....I am going too fast..... :laughin: ...... . :MJ 1: .

If it is a remote (mounted on the fender) you can probably replace it with any remote solenoid, do not limit yourself to just Ford. Other manufacturers (Chevy)... (as well as heavy equipment) use the same set up. just make sure you have the same # of terminals EDIT Here is a link.....it is a Chevy unit additional part #'s http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/shop_parts/starter_solenoid/jeep/comanche.html

Don't mean to poke fun, but.....if your tranny is blown......what difference would it make how much gas you have...... :yes: