yxmj

Ok look at pic #13 that bracket bolts to the car flange then slides into the half pipe looking rubber with the half moon in it that is mounted in the box shaped holder mounted on the cross member. There is no "strap" at the front from the factory :dunno:

Royal Purple :thumbsup:

If you are talking about the one at the cross member go to the link above and look at post #13 it show s a picture of the whole thing....now look at the parts list and tell us what you need?

Scroll back in this thread....in the blown up drawing it is the pieces marked 9 (bracket) and 20 & 21 are the rubber isolator and holder If you look at post #13 in the thread there is a picture of the whole assembly

http://comancheclub.com/topic/41384-exhaust/

To add to what the dog says...it is definitely a YJ diff.. :thumbsup: ...you need to look for the bracket that is supplied with YJ SOA kits...It was an L shaped bracket that would defiantly bolt up and let you use it. To me it looks like a beefy front end that someone put a lot of thought and labor into.....Definitely worth the $50 (the CA's are an added bonus) :clapping:

Read this http://www.offroaders.com/tech/Lunchbox-lockers.htm Pay attention to the links at the bottom of the page there are a couple of descritions of how to install one.

My sediments exactly.....lunchbox all the way :thumbsup: http://lokka.com/site/

:thumbsup: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf:

On some newer aluminum mags the factory sprayed a clear coat (paint) over the aluminum to keep the shine.....only problem was if you cleaned it with an abrasive or it got scraped naturally it would "Fog" and look even worse. Once in order to bring life back to a set I soaked and wiped them down with acetone,,,,it dissolved and removed the coating......if you could try some in an inconspicuous area i feel it might dissolve or at least soften the coating so you can polish it off with an sos pad :dunno: *****protect your painr with some masking tape and plastic****

Before the debate goes too far perhaps the original poster could guide everyone's advice by giving 2 pieces of info. 1) what kind of budget do you have outlined for this modification. 2) what mechanical skill set do you have on a scale from 1-10....1 being the ability to change a tire and 10 being the ability to pull rear end apart and put it back together. :dunno:

As far as parting it out the 2000 will have the good horse shoe intake as well as the duel output "Header".....both great upgrade pieces

Just a reminder......Make sure you cap off the vac line. :thumbsup:

Of course you are right .....why didn't I think of it.....good catch.....Jim you will also have to change the lenses in your front and rear park and brake lights as by law the rear must be red and the orange in the front. :thumbsup:

******Hot water will circulate through the core all the time****** Using that pic as a guide Undo the two clamps on the right hand side of the valve.....undo two clamps that go into the heater core.....undo and cap off vacuum line. Remove valve and 2 stub hoses.........now you will probably need longer hoses.....run them from the engine in and out to the heater core (if you want to save $ just get 2 strait hose joiners and put the stub hoses back on...... Make sense :dunno: *****EDIT******* To answer you question about routing (but if you look at my signiture location as to yours.....I am looking to maximize heat usually) I like to have the hose coming off the t-stat housing to go to the bottom input of the heater core.....the other I hope is self explanatory?

Could you not just mount a much taller and wider rear view mirror..... :dunno: .....might save you some time (sometimes those seat bolts are finicky) :thumbsup:

The only problem in answering that question is that you would have to assume that both trucks are running all original equipment and nothing has been changed or swapped....... If that was the fact they should be 21 spline....should be Here is a link that gives some more info....http://www.quadratec.com/jeep_knowledgebase/article-42.htm *******Note what is said about the AW4 outputs********* I would also say that I know for a fact that the input shafts on 207,231,242, and 249 T-cases can be interchanged (swapped)... I have never had a 228 so can not add that to the list with 100% confidence (this would require splitting the case and installing it)

A 242 would be your best choice (IMHO) bolt pattern would be the same but you will have to do a spline count to make sure.....if you could find one from that era it would be a no brainer bolt in :thumbsup:

Just my 2 cents....but if you are going for the "Half door" open air look and feel whu not look at what we have been doing with wrangler doors for years? A Tube door You can make them cheap and easy.....your design can be from mild to wild.....The "Door" portion can be covered by nylon webbing, ornate steel, or sheet metal, giving you as much or as little opening as you want ......the best part is you do not need a door to start cutting up....just some tubing and some imagination.... :banana:

Nice cheap fix.....could use it to get the truck heading down the road......keep your eyes open, now that you have a threaded opening you might come across the correct ball cap connector that can also be threaded into place. :thumbsup:

I do something similar with my trolley /floor jack. The “Cup” of mine is removable by just pulling a pin, so I have made a couple of extensions and platforms to attach to make lifting different height trucks as well as different components up to be installed. Here is something that might help….Just a platform (in black attached to the “Cup” of the jack…..I am usually on concrete so that I can use the wheels of the jack to move forward and backwards….but if you were on dirt…add a secondary platform (blue) attached to the first with Heavy duty drawer sliders (silver)…this would give you the back and forth you need. You would have to of course put limiting stops (bolts) on the front and back of the sliders to keep it from falling out….and start with you platform slid back far enough that when you slide it forward you do not go over center and flip the jack. :dunno:

Well since your question clearly stated is..... "My questions is, what is the best approach to adding some lift?" Any of the methods described above will work for you. My self I would go with the ZJ front MT rear combo...would give you a clean looking lift that to the untrained eye would look stock. But your Rocky road lift would work for you if the budget is tight ..... :thumbsup: (There is other companies that offer budget boost kits) And FYI the back set of your wheels will actually be an advantage to you if you choose to lift as the wider stance affords you a more stable platform as you go up ....off setting the higher center of gravity and the combination will eliminate any rubbing on the flares. I would also like to see pictures inside the camper...it looks like a beautiful piece of craftsmanship.....and only 500 lbs?

Look more closely. Whoever did the "modification" (i.e. butcher job) didn't tap anything -- he drilled all the way through. The other three bolts already have nuts on them. All the OP needs to do is buy a pair of the u-bolts discussed in that video and install them. post #3 :thumbsup:

Yj cranks do not "snap" on....they are held on with a center screw what size speakers do you have.....i have a set of 5.25" kenwoods in the factory cutout ( but with the kenwood faceplates surface mounted....and the crank is not even close ???)

:thumbsup: