yxmj

Just a guess on one.... The square one with the green rubber insulator looks like it should be pluged in to the TB or manifold.....check there to see if there is an open receptical.....again just a guess.

Take a minute and check this.....just had a simaler problem with the Daughters XJ......was a broken wire....if yours is shorting or grounding out it would account for the heat.....and the hesitation.... :dunno:

Simple test would be change it out with a known good relay......most auto relays have te same pin out....just make sure it can handle the current

Even if your slave does need to be "bleeded", that is not your problem. As mentioned above the clutch is a self-contained hydraulic system....it is not connected electrically or by any other way to the motor that would cause it to stall (normally) You should take the advice given above and with a helper just observe you clutch pedal operation....is it interfering with anything else as it goes through a normal cycle?

If you are looking at the JY for a fan...look for one from a 97-01 xj.....direct bolt in replacement and more air flow.....they look like this :thumbsup:

If you hard wired the fan and nothing happed........I would look there first..... :dunno:

What wheel are you planing to mount them on?

Just out of curiosity...What HP rating would a 7 cylinder radial have?

If you can see the crack...drain the tank enough to get at it.....even better remove it.....clean it good...use acitone as above or brake or carb cleaner... sand or dremel the cracked area and around...apply a weld of hot glue with a high quality glue gun and glue stick.....since you are changeing it it will not have to be pretty ......use the hot tip of the gun to melt the plastic and work the glue in the crack good ....give it a liberal top coat......Hot glue will set up in 30-45 min... :thumbsup:

I agree with the end of the last post and would add this: When the 4.0 burst onto the scene, it had a full 180 horsepower in the Wrangler (a German publication listed it as 172 horsepower, and, in the Cherokee, it started out with 177 hp). One of its advantages was being designed for fuel injection: it had no mechanical fuel pump and was intended from the start to be injected, developed with help from Renault’s fuel injection techs (it used the Renault-Bendix, or Renix, system from 1987 to 1990). In 1990, the GM 4.3L V6 only made 160 hp, the Ford 4.9L I6 (used in the F150 and Econoline) only made 145 hp, the Ford 4.0 V6 made 155 hp, the Chrysler 5.2L made 170 hp, the Jeep/AMC 2bbl 360 V8 made 144 hp, and the Nissan 3.0 V6 (used in the Pathfinder) made 153 hp. Jeep upped the ante in 1991, when the Cherokee's version made 190 hp. Here is the full article: http://www.allpar.com/mopar/40.html But to help with you question, read this about the ax15 http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/ax15.htm You will see it is related and more importantly shares the bell-housing with the Toyota R154 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_R_transmission As you can see there it was standard equipment behind a Toyota Turbo Diesel…..Maybe that would be the easy path????

That's easy.... 2 cylinders

I looked at your post, If I understand correctly this will keep the truck locked in 4 wheel high all the time? An is there a spot to stop the fork so it won't be in 4w low or by doing this is it only going to be 4 w hight. If so is it going to hurt me driving it on pavement on a regular basis? As Pete says above.........it will not be a problem if when you are on the pavement your transfer case is in 2wd

Ha.....love it Being from the great white north I came up with the same idea with one of our easily replenished natural products.........composite hockey stick shafts :Canadaflag: ......looks just like in the video but instead of a pvc pipe it is a rectangular composite member.....the advantage......with some of the more $$$ sticks you get a ready made radical paint scheme......the ones I have look like carbon fiber (a bit more classy than pvc) :thumbsup:

your misunderstanding what I said...... .I was saying that the stethoscope I bought was sensitive enough for me to hear a blown bearing in the belt tensioner while the motor was running.... Your sound is not a belt tensioner bearing.....take off the cover plate on the trans first......(I actually took my grinder to my plate and slotted the bolt holes so that i can remove the cover without dropping the stater) run it with out the cover......next guess exhaust......if not exhaust....... drop the oil pan and take the bolt/nut out that has worked itself in there..... . :MJ 1: .

No.....it is a piece of cheeze.....if you are willing to donate your heart...soul....100 man hours.....about $1000 in extra cash.....nothing to it.......should have a nice truck when your done

Take off the flex plate shield and run it with out it.......see if it is the culpret .... :dunno: After that I have a cheap auto stethescope that can be picked up at most parts stores............accurat enough to pick out a blown belt tention bearing with the motor running.

One word: "Supercharger" You want more low end grunt, then you want a supercharger. Did not say it was cheap, but it will do more for that 2.5 4 banger than anything else. Especially big improvemet at the LOW end. Everything else you can do for the 4 banger will improve the top end, but not the low end. Now, gears will deliver more torque to the ground, but your engine will be screaming on the freeway. A big diesel engine conversion will also get you low end power in spades. But you will need $10K or so for starters.

:yeah that: X2

The pump is the same for 87 (no ballast resistor) as in 88-90 (with the ballast resistor). The resistor was added due to customers complaining about the fuel pump being loud, meaning it must be bad. The resistor quiets it down some. But even on the 88 and later ones, that resistor is bypassed on start up and during wide open throttle operation allowing the pump to work at max capacity. The pump will like 12V (or even 14.4V from the alternator when the truck is running) just fine. :thumbsup: Good to know....thanks for the clarification

Any other way?????....I do not have or want a facebook page :doh:

Any you a member here....when you try to sign up it says it is disabled.....what am i doing wrong?

The sensor/switch in the rad hose is not stock.....my guess it was to turn on the aux fan......my guess on the other wires would be a manual over-ride switch....are there any aftermarket toggles in the cab?

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Finally had time to have an in depth look at the XJ. Since it is my daughter who went through the ordeal I guess she and the tow driver thought they were doing me a favor by putting the truck at the back of the yard no were near the shop….on a patch of raw earth….during 3 days of rain. I hoped I could solve it without hooking up the strap and dragging it inside. :thumbsup: She had let it sit with the key on so first order of business was to hook up the battery charger. First I went for the easy way….. That did not involve lying on the ground …..And went through the PDC with test light a DMM and confirmed that I was getting a pulse to throw the relay when the key was turned. Then bench yesterday the relay (to be safe I walked over to another 98 that was running and pulled its relay and popped it in….still nothing) I had bench tested the pump in the tank in the pic above with the battery charger …and finally in a break in the drizzle bit the bullet and crawled under the dead one and pulled apart the plug to the tank and hooked up the leads…noticeable humming sound….let it go 15 seconds….stood up turned the key….fired right up…best news all day …not the pump. Without taking as long as it took me to trouble shoot the harness (and cursing at everybody’s mother) finally was able to find the culprit….and a first time for me…. On an XJ the plug from the tank goes up through the driver’s side rear floorboard under the back seat (easy to get at) when it passes through the sheet metal it goes through a pre-formed (molded around the wires) rubber grommet……this is where my break was….totally hidden…no broken or frayed wire to slap me in the face but one that took 2 hours of searching to find in a spot you would think would be ok. Just a note for the MJ’s…..Harness is different the ground is at the back by the tail light….and the pump on MJ’s with a ballast resistor probably will not like the full 12 volts.

The center pin the spiders ride on