yxmj

I would like one as well please ****note.....I will supply any require rubber bands....*****

As above.....your heater core was not made to withstand high psi air flow....you will do more damage than good using air on an old core.....it was meant to flow fluid....you want it to flow fluid..to give you heat..use a low pressure hose to wash it out and you might save it......or just get a new core and call it a day? If it helps....check my avatar....I am from Winnipeg..... First thing we learn is how to get the heater going.....-29 today......I drove home in a toasty warm 1992 2.5 YJ......i use the vinegar wash described above.....on all my jeeps

I grew up in Northern Manitoba Went to school with intuit (called Eskimo back then) so camping was out on the tundra canvas tarp for shelter and you kept close to the fire.....funny thing.....they don't have a word for Camping ......closest translation would be " out on the land" I have a 1978 16' trailer (hardtop)......but It does have a flat screen and surround sound (Run off 12v solar) if your going to be out on the land ......a couple of HD movies come in handy ...

But on the bright side.....you can fix it with a rubber band......

Go Jets Go We are a small town......but we got room for a cup......

Cheap any easy flush is every day household vinegar........ I remove both hoses off the core......i then pop on 2 scrap hoses......elevate the open ends. With a funnel fill the lower hose until vinegar comes out the other.....let sit for about 20 min.....dump out into a pail.....now flush the core buy using low pressure water (garden hose) pump water both ways through the core....repeat process a couple of times.....your output water should be as clear and have one same flow rate as the input......

I just had something similar on a YJ Before you go too far try this Remove the negative (ground wire) battery cable..... One at a time pull the electrical plug off each injector..... Spray with electrical contact cleaner and Polish up with a q-tip or even a toothpick Replace all plugs and make sure they snap in...when done attach the battery ground and test run.....any difference?

The Milwaukee M12 series is what I am using.... Drills Impacts Sawzall Multi-tool Rotary tool 3/8 rachet Flashlight I even have a heated winter jacket that runs off the m12 battery packs.....the best part of that is the adapter for the Jacket has a USB output (to charge your phone) as well as a DC output port

As above 12 35 55

If it is an 88....is it not a TBFI?

I will agree with getting the codes..... Do you need guidance with that...... Pete already said it but my first guess is tps.... And if you have the electrical cleaner spray out....spray all the sensor plugs...(tps first)....sometimes a slight bit of green corrosion will cause head scratching for days

Like positive words of encouragement and advice help......or actual greasy fingers on a wrench under your truck help?

Is this a statement.... Or is there a question in there?

Go to harbor freight website..... Look up item #96780.......get your hands on some of this polishing compound. ....put about a table spoon in a plastic water bottle.....fill the bottle half way with mineral spirits (hardware store) shake till it dissolves...... Dump some on a clean rag and Polish ........shiny is good.....

It would be impossible to answer that question without more info.... What is the measurement from center of axle to edge of flair now......front and back

Ya I know really.... I have never gotten more than 20 hp+ out of my cold air intake..... Something must be hooked up wrong.....

If your going to have in cab control of your brakes then man up and add a second bias valve..... Not front to back but left to right......think of how easy those hair pin corners would be if you could ......when turning left shut off the right side brakes....hit that corner old school Sammy Hagar "one foot on the brake and one on the gas".....talk about turning on a dime.....just a thought...

Take out the drivers side tail light....if I remember right there is a ground point there.....wire brush it till it shines. Reconnect it....does that solve it?

A 98 ZJ never came with a 5x5 bolt pattern If those wheels are from a 98 ZJ they will fit an MJ (both 5x4.5")

For the little time and about $7 (diff fluid and rtv).....you will know for sure what your ratio is and ....you will have changed the diff fluid

A comment and a question....the 4.11 8.8 will be more available and more economical for you in your area (look for Ford explorers)......I have not read in this thread were you confirmed what your gear ratio is...... Have you looked for a tag....or better yet pulled your diff cover and looked for the stamped numbers......be a shame to go through all this and find out you had 4.10 the whole time.....?? It says 3.55 above.....but that would mean that the diff was changed?????

Can't comment on the dogs outside the bit.......but the way i read it the "donor" is in a scrap yard.....so he is just required to get the part off the truck and to the front desk to pay the man......since it is a replacement trans.....my guess would be he has the bolts from the original and his only concern with this bolt is that he can slide the trans off and take it home.....and if he is smart.......don't replace it with one of these monkey bolts......use a normal one....they fit......Just MHO

All is fair in junkyard wars.....if you are just after the trans then you don't have to worry about saving or removing the bolt.....cut the head off.........or drill it off......the trans will slip off over the bolt........my new favorite junkyard toy is a cordless rotary tool with cut off wheels....just removed 8 injectors out of an old ford police interceptor in under a minute

4.10 gears....?

That's just Canadian Eh...