Oizarod115

try to think of it as they're limping the poor thing along because it came to them almost dead.. not as they're beating it to death. :chillin: it's better on the soul that way.

mopar stuff works good, if not that try to get something bosch as for plugs get champion copper plugs. don't bother with anything else, champion coppers are the tried, tested and true plug that works for the older 4.0L edit: and if you DO get it all from the dealer, you're going to get a champion plug in a mopar box ;)

sorry the factory setup 242 was in an XJ but its still pertinent because that means the length of the whole setup didn't change

fought with getting ready for emissions! :wall:

hmm, he didn't mention mann, i'll continue using them :cheers: good read

i like it! (especially considering mine's a little rough :help: ) i nominate eagle, hornbrod, and CWlongshot to start things up though ;)

it's practically the same driveshaft length, if anything slightly shorter so since you're lifted i see no reason why you can't run the same shaft you already have. my brother swapped FROM a 242 to a 231 and re-used shafts, my buddy swapped from 2wd to 242 and used a shaft from his old jeep with a 231. so it seems to me they don't change enough to matter really. and the linkage will work for both transfer-cases, just needs adjustment, but since you're swapping it TO 4x4 you'll have to adjust that anyways.

i think he's correct that the engine bracket is different for it, which also means the other accessories may mount differently as well. just compare it realll good so you get everything

still though, :bowdown: thanks for the idea... that never even BEGAN to cross my mind, i figured my ECU was through-dealin' the theory-of-operation i found in the FSM made no mention of that but it makes sense and they love to omit things :popcorn: thanks horn, you've always got good thoughts for me.

i don't know what the reasoning is on it but yes, you are correct in thinking open loop is warm-up cycle. my truck never achieved closed loop today so i guess i never saw the sensor come online.

thanks for that, i was hoping someone would have my magical answer i needed! the first part sounds like my issue. but the heater circuit in the sensor is kerfuct so it's not achieving closed loop and thus i never saw the signal change. *i think you have the loops backwards* sorry, i'm a renix guy! forgot to mention that. guess i'll throw a sensor at it tomorrow and go from there.

The signal wire from my o2 sensor has a perfect 5volts at all times, even when the key is in my pocket. Anyone ever heard of such a problem? this occurs with and without the sensor plugged in, truck running, key on, truck off, key on, or truck off, key off. the grey signal wire ALWAYS has 5V and also does anyone know if the heater circuit for the o2 sensor is supposed to run off 12v?

try swapping another relay that matches it, like if you have an a/c relay that would be a good one to use.

with the cb overhead near the mirror you'd just about have to be engaged in uh... "extra-curricular" activities involving yourself and a mate of your choice in order to hit it... its extremely out of the way. that said, my visors were to long so i put mine behind the passenger seat on the end of my sub box so its out of the way but there when i need it. sticks out about an inch into the center

hahaha, thanks. :doh: i missed a few good points there

hahaha, noone does, don't worry. you get it running right in the summer, then it drops 40 degrees and you have to get it running right again. different story every day lol, GREAT job so far, real clean build.

tried the mopar dealer? or find the exact diameters and order it from a dorman catalog, usually carquest stores will carry anything dorman has.

:bowdown: starting with a good base.... I'm diggin the rotten bed.

MAN am i glad to finally see someone do a full fuel injected swap. :bowdown: :cheers:

i'm enjoying the button pushers freaking out about the lakes here because of the drought. (GA has been in a drought for 3-4 years) 2 years ago everyone was touting that lake lanier (the major water supply for most of metro atlanta) would never get back to full and it was all downhill from here and that the lake would run dry by jan 1st of the next year... here it is 2 years later and the lake rose 6.5 feet in ONE MONTH to just over full pool. (has risen 21 feet this year) and oh yeah, the drought has been officially over for about 6 months

YIKE!!!! oddly enough, the trackbar fell out of my MJ at 55 with no warnin or wobbles... i simply couldn't turn as far as your wobble, the trackbar being off 1/4" doesn't seem like a big deal considering you can run 2-3 inches of lift without changing it at all. get back to us after the alignment and balance.

if you've got grinding in the t-case you're going to have metal in the fluid, pull the fill plug and see if it has any fluid in it, then pull the drain plug and see if large chunks of metal come out with it... you also may be able to shine a light up in the holes and see if something is destructed.

check again for brake fluid leaks, then replace your master cylinder. definitely time for a 95-96 booster upgrade. just completed mine today and the difference is unbelievable.

Is that what the technician told you? That's garbage. Balancing a wheel involves both the correct amount of weight AND putting the weight in the correct location(s). There is no such thing as a tire being "out of balance by 'X' ounces." If there's any weight at all on a wheel, it is often (but not always) possible to correct a balance problem just by moving one or more weights on the rim. If this is what the shop told you, IMHO it is proof positive that they don't know what they are doing. i'm gonna have to argue the last point there, the technician most likely meant merely that yes the tires were badly out of balance... when i pull the wheels of my volvo and balance them and only one tire needs any weight at all and is only off .25, i consider that to have been in good balance... when i pull the wheels of my truck and balance them and ALL four wheels require an ounce or more at first spin, they're badly out of balance... that's not to say that all i do is ADD an ounce where it says, if a tire is out that bad you take the weights off and start over from scratch. BUT it DOES MEAN that the tires were badly out of balance to begin with.

that looks like where the fuel pressure regulator attaches to it... try getting a new fuel pressure regulator... bout 15 bucks IIRC. looks like the seal between the rail and the regulator might be able to just get an o-ring for it.