BJA814

Sweet car! What was with those shackles in the first pic??? :nuts:

Ahhh that makes sense. So an aftermarket sensor should go in the back of the head correct?

FARTS! there's two?? That's why my gauge never worked after the full cluster swap. Threw in the ECU one. I never even thought about it...just threw in an aftermarket one. What exactly does the ECU one do???

With Rough Country's new long arm kit now available, I would love to see lift companies cater to guys wishing to do 6.5" long arms and SOA. A reasonable, yet complete kit would be nice. But there's probably not much of a market. I would love to see some heavy duty bed rail protection that maybe included tie down options, or a movable-over the rails-basket?

I like it! Would go great under the topper of my rig.

We need some type of sticky for lift set-ups. It could include parts used, rough price, likes/dislikes, and things you would do different. Anyone else thinks this would be a help to the forum?

:rotf: The best part is that he is wearinf mittens...

It's a secret.... :brows: PM sent.

Anyone know if GM NP207 and Jeep NP207 input shafts are interchangeable? I'm thinking that they should be, but just wondering if anyone can verify this.

Sweet! Hopefully I can free up the trailer by then.

I vote the AW4 with a temp tranny guage and bigger tranny cooler. Or atleast a electric fan for the stock tranny cooler. Just one less thing to focus on. I do REALLY enjoy driving stick on the street though. And AW4's are east to find. Probably cheaper to throw another one in than to have it rebuilt.

I like it!

I had my pipe there too until I went to 3" tail pipe. Sounds better, but in that location, it was either rub the tires, or get squashed under full flex.

Thanks for trying, but it actually doesn't answer any of my questions very well. 1. We KNOW that Fram filters cause low oil pressure on the Jeep engines. This has been documented right here. Virtually every time someone posts that they have low (or no) oil pressure, we ask if they are running a Fram filter and the answer is almost always yes. They change the filter and the problem goes away. This is fact, not theory. The question is: Why? 2. The new media referred to for Purolator was said to be in the Pure-One filters. I run the standard Purolators. That's why I specifically asked about the standard, NOT the Pur-One, filters. 3. The Renix 4.0L engines mount the filter upside down, which makes an anti-drainback valve mandatory. Whether or not they all have them, some seem to work (Purolator) and some seem to not work (if they have them), such as Fram. Perhaps I should have asked which filters have useful anti-drainback valves rather than just ask which have them. Eagle- At work now with my data in front of me, let me see if I can do better. The FRAM issue: Renix motors call for a PH3985. I do not have testing data for this filter. I DO have data for the PH16 used on newer Jeeps/Chryslers. FRAM PH16 Mile Grand mo16 U.S.A 20um 99.50% 50um 99.70% Test length 0:56:59 Retained capacity 6.748g While we don not have flow restriction numbers (we do not supply this filter to Fram), I can conclude that a filter that is 99.5% efficient at 20 microns will have a significant restriction to flow in order to trap all of those particles. Especially towards the end of the filter's service life. Anti-drain back valves: Some companies such as Honeywell (Fram, Micro Gard, Defense) have been known to use Nitrile Butadiene Rubber with a shore hardness as high as 70-75%%D. This results in the rubber becoming brittle, more so when the product has sat on the shelf for a long time. Good anti-drain back valves are made of a softer NBR to allow them to conform to the base plate and remain resilient. KEEP IN MIND: It is impossible to state that this data is accurate for all part numbers of a certain brand. Purolator for instance buys only a handful of part numbers from us, starting just recently. There are three different factories that supply those part numbers. That being said, most company who DO NOT manufacture their own filters will have a variety of filter types in their line. They approve filters one part number at a time, and the sources vary accordingly. Companies also change suppliers faster than I change socks. It is impossible to give data and opinions of a whole line of filters. The original link is a great resource for PH8A filters, but cannot be held true for all filters. There is just too much variation. I won't even get into spot buys and cross vendor purchasing. This is why I personally stick with WIX. WIX makes WIX oil filters. Period. I cannot stress enough how vague the filter industry can be. Inspect your oil filters before you put them on. Make damn sure you are comfortable putting them on your vehicle. Check the threads if you can. Check the gasket, check for perpendicularity, look inside the filter, look for foreign materials or excess media. Lunch is just about over, so I'm going back CAD work. I will try to answer any more questions tonight.

Go with the 31's for now. a 2" BB in the front should clear them fine, and they won't kill your axles. Then you can upgrade to better axles if money comes along. THEN....when you DO lift it 6" the axles will be beefy enough to handle 33" tires. Follow me? Build the truck in stages so that things will be OVER built, not UNDER built. Example: 6" lift, 33" tires V8, stock axles.......won't last more that 6 months....then you are forced to do axles. OR Budget boost, 31" tires, a 4.0l, better rear axle.....won't break, and you won't lose any money when you go to 6" lift. The 31's are free, and a budget boost can be had for under $100. I hope that makes sense? To answer the D30 question. I am running an open carrier non-disco D30 with 34" TSL with the newer 297x joints. (bigger stronger joints) While I haven't had any trouble with this setup, I did bend my stock front axle and it chewed up a spider gear really fast.

You have a dana30 front. there should be a tag on it saying what gears you have. Try this for IDing the rear: http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/ ... index.html

OK....based on the Broke-as-can-be budget here, let's consider a new approach: Have you considered starting small? Ever wheeled a small light rig with Low COG and lockers? Budget boost the jeep keeping lift costs next to nothing. Throw on some really agressive 31 or 32" tires...trim the daylight out of your fenders. Invest your big chunk of money you're willing to spend in a good rear axle and a front locker (weld the rear for now until you can get a better axle with a spool/locker) That would be my BARE BONES budget build. FWIW, I consider my truck on 34" tsl's a budget build totaling less than $2250 including the truck, tax, title, and reg. Just another approach to consider.

Questions like these are always hard to answer. With that much power and weak axles , you will break something. If you do have the AMC20 Rear, it's not as much of an issue as the Dana35 rear. If you have the D35, I would suggest a 3.5hp Briggs and Stratton. Really. The D35 might hold up to light wheeling and minor driving for a few months, but 12.50 wide 33's are heavy tires. Especially thick mud tires. All that extra weight that has to be turned is going to take a toll on you axles. The bottom line in my view is this: Lift it, throw your tires on, and run it til something explodes. In the mean time though, find a good set of axles and save $$ for a regear. If you are lucky, you will have 4:10 gears to start with, then on the front you can swap in one-piece 297x jointed axle shafts from a newer HP D30. In the rear you could run the AMC 20 (if you have it) a Ford 8.8 or a D44. It's really alot of mixing and matching to find what works for you. Be prepared to spend a little moeny, jump on good deals when you can. Make Jeep friends and barter/swap parts you need. Don't be affraid to buy a whole truck. Alot of times you can buy a donor truck for what many people spend on a rear axle. But most importantly in my view is to take it one step at a time: replace things with better stuff as they break, and have fun. :thumbsup:

:needpics: Substitute "video" for "pics". I'll see what I can do.

Eagle: 1. Just how bad ARE Fram filters? Fram filters work. They do what they are supposed to. I wouldn't want to miss an oil change with one though. The fabric endcaps that hold the media together are obviously not as strong as metal ones. These can break down over time, causing the media to break apart and enter your engine...especially when the filter is dirty and has more of a restriction to flow. 2. How good or bad are the standard (not the Pur-One) Purolator filters? Purolator has had good quality filters in the past. Slightly thinner can usually, but more or less a good filter. I would run a Purolator filter on my rig after seeing the inside. Not sure about this "new media" mentioned before...I will try to do some investigating if things slow down this week. 3. Which filters have effective anti-drainback valves, and which don't? Anti-drain back valves are idiot proof to manufacture. They are essentially rubber flaps that keep oil in the 'clean' side of the filter. This prevents engine from starting with no oil in the filter. On most domestic vehicles where oil filter are mounted low on the block/sideways, this isn't a problem. When auto manufacturers started putting spin-ons in strange orientations, ADBV's became necessary. They were moved to other part numbers as a sales pitch mostly. I'd say over 80% of vehicles see no benefit from ADBV's Try this next time you change your oil: After you remove your old oil filter, let it sit upside for an hour or so. Then holding it upside down, poke the rubber flap thru one of the holes and watch the oil come out. SEE! Not empty! Hope that answers your questions Eagle.

Your drag link and track bar need to be at the same angle. If you use a drop pitman arm, your angle will be different. This will cause bump steer. If your absolutely had to have a drop pitman arm (which you don't) you would have to drop the track bar frame mount down too. What are your plans for the truck? Mine is strictly a wheeling rig, and works fine with a full set of adj. arms and no drop brackets. I will be going with long arms in the future, but for now it works. But I don't break 40mph haha. Build on my truck: Front: 6.5" RC coils Adj UCA from RC Adj LCA from RC Adj trackbar from RC (not really thrilled with this one...I'd go for something beefier...it's a VERY important part) Redrilled bracket and extended hardlines for front brakes RC sway bar dicsos (used once...too much of a pain. I now run without sway bar. Again, not much street time) Used RE 6" shocks Rear: Perches Prop Valve Rod extension New rear hardlines (not needed, but watch out when placing the perches on top of the axle...movement of the lines may be required) Lowered mount for soft to hard brake line. New U-bolts If you re-use your shock mount plates, be sure to use both plates on top of the leafs Measure for custom application shocks. CHECK YOUR PINION ANGLES!! Thats about it. It would take more if I wanted to make this thing highway worthy, but I don't. That's why I have a DD capable of towing the MJ. It all depends on what you expect from the truck.

We do not sell oil filters to FRAM. We only sell our in house brand of oil filters: Service Pro. Our biggest customer for oil filters is AIOD (Association of Indipendent Oil Distributor) Jiffy Lubes, smaller dealerships, etc. We are also working on NAPA filters (shhhhhhhhh) But Fram oil filters are junk. They use a weaker media, and fabric endcaps. They also use a leaf spring retainer, which is weaker than our hardened coild spring retainer. Our filters also have a thicker can that resists denting, etc. That being said....I am an Engineer, not a sales person. After seeing our filters flow tested and burst tested, I would not hesitate to use them on any of my vehicles. However, you can't buy Serivce Pro filters in stores. So.... I WOULD CHOOSE WIX FILTERS HANDS DOWN over any other oil filter out there. Wix has incredible quality control at both their factories, and their production inspections. Wix also has one of the toughest filters that can be abused and still work, and they take pride in that as a company. Other things to consider are pressure relief valves...these are important if your filter becomes clogged. It can commonly be overlooked by manufacturers, as it is a safety and not a required design element. I have seen many cases of filters over pressurizing, and blowing the gasket out, causing a leak. BTW...burst testing is cool!! I just built a new hand pump for testing spin-ons. What a sweet rig. Makes a mess when they blow at 300psi :cheers:

I'll dig into it tomorrow and let you know. :thumbsup:

I now work as an Engineering Technician for one of the countries largest private automotive filter distributors. We sell to everyone from FRAM, WIX, BALDWIN, PUROLATOR, CHAMP LABS, and all of their sub-companies. We don't sell oil filters to all companies, but have cut open and tested every maufacturers oil filters (spin-on and cartridge). Anyone have questions :brows:

I would be interested. The 8th would be better, it would give me a little more time to prepare.