64 Cheyenne

Every time I ride public transit it freaks me out. Seems we are going really fast with no seat belt on....crazy

The fix for a HO swap isnt ghetto at all.. You just have to put the brake switch wire into your multifunction switch plug. Super easy, Permenant fix. To make it work like a stock MJ?

The first one is a home page of some excellent Jeep stuff, and the second is specifically Renix. Answers to your EGR questions are here. http://www.lunghd.com/On_Site_Tech.htm http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Basic_Sensors_Diagnostics.htm

My friend did this because to him and his dad it was the easier way to get his brake and tails working. They did an 86 to 4.0 swap and with the swap came wiring issues, they also did an HO swap into an MJ same thing, wiring issues. Here on the forum there is a lot of info on how to fix these issues, which I support. Me I don't like it because I think it is kind of ghetto and not the way it was originally designed.

To get the old one off of the bad dash, I take a phillips, smack it through the plastic on both sides of the good vin, vin comes right off. Drilled the rivets on the bad vin, pulled that off. Put a spot of rtv on the back to keep the new one from wigglin. Pushed the good vin back in old holes. Guy told me today "easy breezy"...lol

First one - fog Second - ? aux fan or fan switch Last from tranny - back up light switch These jeeps had a lot of "extra" plugs that went to stuff that wasn't installed, I wouldn't cut any out, I would clean them up and leave them in place. Far as I can tell, you need or could potentially need the three plugs you referenced. Easy add on fogs and aux fan.... But you definitely need the one that goes to the transmission. Under the dash, don't look if you don't like plugs that go nowhere....lol

GF, well ex GF has a G6, she thinks I envied her for that car. She thinks I liked to drive it and wanted to all the time. I hated that car, only drove it when I had to, hated having to pull myself up by the door frame to get out of the damn thing. Yeah its a nice car, got a bunch of stuff on it, if it was my car, it would only be driven to go to town which is 100+ miles. The MJ is great, just gets poor gas mileage, but I love driving it. DD is a dropped S-10 because it looks cool, gets 20+ mpg and I only paid a hundred bucks for it. on top of it all, its still easier gettin in and out of than that stupid G6 (chick car IMHO). If it wasn't for the cost of fuel, I'd drive the MJ any day, every day.

Wonder what language that is so I know how to say "Oh S*&t" in that language, gotta be what that guy is sayin in the video lol.

Learned on my own. Used a bearing separator from HF, have to have calipers or micrometer, have to have dial indicator and stand, have to have hydraulic press have to have setup bearings, have to have a lot of tools and a lot of patience. So far I have done 2 D30s and 2 8.8s, both my own vehicles. Do I suggest a novice do it, it depends. Why I did it, because I have a lot of tools, and plan on building an engine next (unrelated), I have 2 MJs that both needed gears, to me the knowledge of knowing how to do is is like another tool in my box. If you have a lot of tools, patience and the desire to learn, then I say go for it. If your lacking any of the above, then spend the$$ and be done with it, furthermore, if this is a one time thing, then I suggest just spending the $$. Edit: did not use case spreader on any of my gear swaps.

Foot brake is gone, hand brake is hooked up between seats.

Hope you got to see "Garden of the Gods"....

I have the black reflective tailgate ones, awesome!

I think Jim is the younger guy or the older guy, damn Just can't tell anymore! :rotf: Myself, can't wait to go to Colorado, meetin Jim would definitely be the high part of my trip, someday, I will pilgrimage to Pueblo,CO.

It's easy, look at the housing that holds the pinion gear. The gear does not sit in the center of the housing, its eccentric. I don't even pay attention to the numbers, put the gear into the hole, turn it till its tight, back it off to first set of marks, done.

Well here it is, an early XJ hand brake in my 87 MJ with 8.8. I'm not going to do an exact play by play because considerable ingenuity and fabrication skills were needed and used to do this, if you understand the basics of what I've done and had this addiction for a while you will be able to follow along easy enough. First I'm gonna talk about what I did then show the pics then answer questions after. We'll start with the 8.8, I trimmed the backing plates because I don't like the possibility of rocks and debris getting caught between them and the disks. You can't just remove them because the ebrake shoes mount to them. And yes I did have issues with the caliper bolt hitting the spring, common issue with 8.8 swap, do the swap and you'll know what I'm talking about. Easy to deal with, not a deal breaker. I switched the backing plates and caliper mounts left to right, and right to left so the ebrake cables would exit the rear of the caliper mount. True to Jeep form one thing leads to another, the Ebrake cables wouldn't make it to the bracket under the bed without stretching them, so I moved the bracket under the bed back about six inches. I had to weld a piece of metal on the bracket for the single rear bolt to mount up. Initially, I tried to do the swap like Alexia and Onyx did, found out that conversion with the late hand brake only works with the 97up console. So, back to the early hand brake. It is pretty important that when the console is mounted, it and the placement of the ebrake are aligned well or weird stuff will happen like the e brake lever will be "off" or "not straight". You can see in the pics the familial relationship that the MJ has with XJ as evidenced by the flat spot that the hand lever mounts to. I needed a way to mount a cable to the end of the rod that exits the bottom of the hand lever. Another problem, it has a metric thread. I took a 5/16 die and ran it down the metric threads so that I can get a 5/16 brake clevis threaded onto the end of the rod. I used a lot of red lock tight on it,should stay put as this is not where I will adjust the brake from. If I have problems, I will weld the clevis to the rod, and I still might. Now the cable, I thought about looping the cable but this would have had to be done under the truck outside. Didn't like that idea, so I had to find a way to a shorter cable. I did use the stock cable,but shortened it by carefully cutting a slit in the end of the ferrule so I could get the end off. Then I measured the cable, cut it, forced the ferrule back on and will secure it better with a hose clamp. For the front cable bracket, I was going to sacrifice the stock foot brake for the part that holds the cable end like Alexia did. I couldn't do that, they aren't making foot brake mechanisms any more so another way had to be found. I took the foot brake mechanism off of a 70s Chevy truck I'm junking. (I took the motor out of it for my S-10). I used that part to make the little bracket that the front of the cable attaches to. I welded it to a piece of L shaped metal that I metal screwed to the bottom of the cab. Then the front of the cable, ran it through the brake clevis, around a thimble and secured with a swedge clamp. The pics show it loose because I still need to tighten it for a final fit which will be done before shakedown run. Couple of important things to note, the brake adjusters should be close to where they need to be so you don't lose most of your adjustment compensating for them. The hydraulic lines weren't intended to exit the caliper in the direction the way they are now. The little tab that keeps the banjo from turning will need to be trimmed to allow for the new exit direction. Kind of a PIA to do, but I don't recommend cutting the tab totally off, it is a safety thing in case the banjo turns. I think that is about it, one thing I was concerned about is the "throw" of the XJ lever, it's about 3/4" probably have to have the adjustment "just right" for it to work properly. Enjoy

Weather stripping for doors from JY, 97 up, thicker better, common upgrade.

If you go HF, get the 2t one unless your pulling the motor from a Honda.

:doh: :agree: Why didn't I think of that lol

Read that ATF is looking into these devices because they fear that in the future, with the advancing technology people might/will start "printing" all sorts of things that could cause mayhem, ie untraceable firearms and such. ATF is looking into regulating the software that is used to control these devices...

Best suggestion is to get everything, from an XJ with same transmission. When I say everything, that includes the body and transmission side brackets. There are differences between transmissions, which affects how the linkages attach to the body side.

Pete, could you give a little info on the GPS app you use, which one, short description of how it works and how well. I been thinking of an android device in lieu of a real GPS device. If I got to spend a bunch of money, I would like to have something that does more than tell me where I am at or road conditions. I'm not asking about devices, but the app, so we don't get sidetracked on apple, samsung etc.

I used two r/side Explorer lines, fabbed hard lines, connected to Dakota axle to frame line. My friend used both stock Explorer lines hooked to a dropped bracket with the Explorer to frame line. Actually, the stock left side Explorer line runs from the caliper to an axle bracket, where the right side line ties into it, then up to the frame , all one piece. Then it ties into hard line to the right side, then short rubber line. It's doable using the stock Explorer line, but I didn't. Either way, your doing an 8.8, the brake lines are definitely the easy part.

Yup, Thats what I thought, cool.

Best way to learn is by doing it. :thumbsup: Then if need be you can do the front as seen in my other DIY.

I should be posting a DIY sometime soon, possibly this weekend if I get it done, weather permitting