dasbulliwagen

I did the same thing on Thanksgiving day a few years back, whole right side of my right foot turned black/blue and swelled up..... nothing you can do really, just a waste of money to see a doctor about that as they can't really do anything about it themselves, other than "here's some percosets!" :yes:

I don't have my camera with me, but will try to get it at lunch and try to help you out. Mine is also a 1987 2.5 4x2 (originally).

A little ways down the page you can see my rear bumper build, it is an XJ rear bumper adapted to fit the rear of the MJ. The end caps were trimmed, and the brackets made, but thats all it really took to mount it. viewtopic.php?f=7&t=18558&start=15

Do you have bigger tires than stock? If so that could cause the speedo to be off, and thus your milage numbers incorrect, but I'm not sure which direction. Its possible your speedo gear could be wrong if the trans has been swapped and it originally had different gearing in the axles, or maybe your axles have been swapped to different gearing and the speedo gear wasnt changed. There are a bunch of things that could casue an incorrect number, and with all youve done already, its time to look into these areas. ALSO... dragging brakes, incorrect alignment, slipping trans, low tire pressure, can also cause poor fuel milage.... check it all! Good luck!

to be safe, I would grab the whole setup (flexplate, torque converter, tranny) and possibly the TC. Check the output shaft on yours first, should be 21 spline since you have a 207. Depending on the year of the donor, it could be either 21 or 23 spline (almost certain it'll be 21 if coming off an XJ/MJ) Jeff I have an 86 XJ with the 904, and an NP228. Ive been told that since it has the NP228, it will have 23 spline output. I have yet to verify this though, so make sure you know what youre getting.

Youll need to make sure the input shaft is the same splines, and the same length too, and have the same pilot bushing size.

I don't have a lot of Mazda experience yet, but I havent heard of anything like that. Usually when I see bulbs blowing rapidly like that, it is a connector problem at the bulb, or a bad batch of bulbs.... might want to try a different brand if the connectors look good.

SHWEET!!! Welcome to the madness. And say hello to the Dunder Mifflin crew for me!

Ive been in Atlanta (Marietta) all week doing Mazda Factory training classes, and decided that since I'm here, I should go to the Coca Cola museum. Nice place with lots of neat stuff, but I really don't think its worth $10 to park and $15 addmission. I have a pretty nice Coke collection, so I really wanted to go there. Anyways, on my way out of the parking garage, I saw a decent white shortbed MJ parked, so I stopped in the middle of the exit lane, and put a card under the wiper. Thought I would post this up in case that person decided to check us out. If youre out there, welcome to the club! I think its time too, to hit up Pete for more cards!

Chrysler will give you the same build sheet I just got for you.... same codes. They get the info from the same place I did.

Please keep in mind, some of the codes below have been recycled by Chrysler, and no longer mean what they originally meant, so if it looks like you have an electronic shift on the fly transfer case as stated below, just know that the code changed meanings. This info is directly from Chrysler. Standard Equipment Code Description Code Description Code Description APAS Monotone Paint BGAS Power Front Disc/Rear Drum Brakes DGSS 4-Speed Automatic AW4 Transmission DHAS Lock-Up Torque Converter DHNS Command-Trac Part Time 4WD System DJHS Dana M30/181MM Front Axle DMDS 3.55 Rear Axle Ratio DRJS 175MM Rear Axle GACS Tinted Glass Windows GBBS Tinted Windshield Glass GCBS Front Door Tinted Glass GEHS Fixed Door Vent Glass JAZS Analog Instrument Cluster JCAS 85 MPH Primary Speedometer KWRS DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE K3ZS DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE LBCS Glove Box Lamp LMAS Halogen Headlamps MB1S Black Front Bumper MFFS Black Grille MMCS Upper Door Frame Moldings MMGS Belt Moldings NAAS Federal Emissions NBKS EVAP Control System NF2S 18.5 Gallon Fuel Tank QW7S Bright White Clear Coat SFAS Standard Duty Shock Absorbers SGAS Rear Shock Absorbers TBCS Compact Spare Tire TBMS Tire Carrier Winch XBSS Pickup Box YAAS Build To U.S. Mkt. Specifications Z5AS GVW/Payload Rating 1AAS U.S. Dealer Retail 143S Zone 43-Pittsburgh Optional Equipment Code Description Code Description Code Description *C1 DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE -SA DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE ALAP SE Decor Group BARP 90 Amp Alternator BCDP 500 Amp Maintenance Free Battery CBAP Straight Back Bench Seat CKAP Carpets - Floor and Cargo Area DGB All 4-Speed Automatic Transmissions DHTP Elec,Shift-on-the-Fly,P/Time T/Case ERH 4.0L I6 Power Tech Engine GFD Rear Sliding Window GRZP Left Remote Mirror GSZP Right Remote Control Mirror GTZP Manual Remote Mirrors HAA Air Conditioning JHAP Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers JJAP Cigar Lighter KERP DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE MBJP Black Front Bumper MDAP Front License Plate Bracket MHAP Black Windshield Moldings MMKP Body Color Drip Trough Molding PW7 Bright White Clear Coat RAAC All Radio Equipped Vehicles RAFP AM/FM Cassette Radio RCDP 4 Speakers SBAP Power Rack and Pinion Steering SCGP Leather Wrapped Steering Wheel SUA Tilt Steering Column TMWP P215/75R15 OWL All Terrain Tires TZAP Goodyear Brand Tires WJNP 15 Aluminum Wheels WLZC All Aluminum Wheels YGEA 5 Additional Gallons of Gas Z01P Rear Spring Group I Z66P Left Front Group XV Z82P Right Front Spring Group XI 2TCA Customer Preferred Package 2TC 26C Customer Preferred Package 26C 3VNA Customer Preferred Discount 4EA Sold Vehicle 4HA Special Scheduling Condition I 4M1P Retail to Bid Diversion Tracking 4UA SCA Tissue North America LLC Vehicle Service Information Year/Model: 1992 JEEP COMANCHE Last Odometer: 39,002 Miles on June 9, 1997 Body Style: MJJL61 In-Service Date: May 12, 1992 Engine: ERH-4.0L I6 Power Tech Engine In-Service Odometer: 15 Miles Transmission: DGS-4-Speed Automatic AW4 Transmission Odometer Type: Miles Color 1: PW7-Bright White Clear Coat Car Line: P Color 2: QW7-Bright White Clear Coat Build Date: April 22, 1992 Current Market Register: U Hour: 19 Vehicle Sale Information Selling Dealer: 23456 - FAIRCHILD JEEP Sales Type: 1 - DIRECT RETAIL City: CLEVELAND State/Province: OH Country: USA Telephone: (216)521-1000

FIAT after meeting all govt rules, will own 35% of Chrysler, and they are looking at getting another 15-16% to make them majority shareholders in the near future. AT least thats what Ive been reading on allpar.com. Yes, thay have been known to be wrong, but thats what you get for being the first to report on stuff like that when all decisions have yet to be made. FIAT doesnt own Lamborghini, they own Ferrari, so it would be a Ferrari V12 MJ! Yeah right!

The earlier Rangers like the 85, which i also have experience with, was a much better truck than the current 93 up models, I Also had a 68 F250 Ranger Camper Special with 390 bigblock in it. GREAT TRUCK! 8 MPG wheather it had an empty bed or was hauling 3500lbs of gravel! But having driven my dads 96 enough to know, the current ones arent up to Comanche levels in terms of build quality, or character. Good luck with whatever you get.

Some of the factory manuals will give you dry fill and wet fill amounts, about 2 quarts more than normal 4 quarts for a 2.5 sounds about right. Just add to top off, and re check often to see whats going on.

No wheels, but I see your another Buell owner.... had to say HI. Ive yet to ride an XB but hear great things about them. don't sell, youll regret it! I often consider selling my 97 Lightning S-1, but I know once I do, Ill kick myself. That is unless I can sell it and then immeadiately buy a Heritage Softail.... I can dream can't I? Keep it, enjoy it!

ALL other years of MJ XJ 2wd spindles will fit as long as you also go with that spindle years brakes. I think ZJ, will also fit, and WJ 2wd spindles will fit with a combination of WJ and MJ/XJ balljoints, that would also give you the larger dual piston WJ brakes as long as you re- did the hub bearing and re drilled the rotor to fit the 5x4.5 bolt pattern. I left you a link to this mod in one of your previous posts about better brakes. You wouldnt happen to know Joey Beam would ya? He still runnin around Eaton Rapids?

The Boss's MJ has been sitting, not driven since the last time I fixed it, I think for a broken heater control valve, its been a month or so since I did that. Anyways, he gives it to our cleanup guy this morning to take to pick something up 2 cities over. He makes it two miles up the road before it dies, and the boss called me to go get him. Took a jump box with me, and we jumped it off, it ran fine as long as it had the jump box on it, take the jumper off, and it boggs, spits and sputters. The negative cable was not fully tight, and the cable itself is in REALLY bad shape. I figured at the least it was a bad cable causing it to not be able to charge, so we shoved the jump box in the engine bay, cliked the hood down to first latch, and drove it back to the dealership. I got a new cable for it, and then tested to see if the alternator was putting out..... NOPE. Ordered a new alternator, to be put on monday. :shake:

You know Thanksgiving isnt until tommorow. DUH! Just kidding! Everyone have a safe weekend as we watch the Lions loose..... again!

When I swapped my HVAC housing for AC, I oiled the motor up. Clean it up real good, and then if there arent obvious oil holes, just drip some motor oil on the bearings themselves and spin the motor by hand. You should feel it free up like this as you turn it and work the oil in. If it doesnt help, youll need to find a new motor. I can't remember how hard it was to get to the bearing under the fan squirrel cage itself, but if it looks like you can pull the cage off and oil the bearing, if not, get a skinny drink straw, dip it in oil and stick the straw in behind the cage to oil the bearing. Hope this helps.

Your thinking should be correct, but I havent tried it. I just slapped in some new 5 1/4 speakers in mine. But assuming you have clearnace, it should work fine.

Sand it so its not shiny anymore, anywhere. A 320 grit sanding on paint will suffice... just get all the gloss sanded, and it shoulod be good. I think even a good sanding with a red 3M scotchbrite scuff pad would be good. You may want to do some rearch about herculiner over bare metal.

Theres alot to be said for working with what you have. It may not be pretty, or the best stuff in the world, but if its what you have and can make it work, more power to you. I too have to put an NP207 in my 87 for the 4x4 conversion.... because its what I have. What I don't have is any kind of budget to get something better. Unless something better falls in my lap, then I have no choice. Thing I do have are tools, and time, and injenuity (sp?). I'm sure JOOP is the same way. What can we do? MAKE IT WORK! I'm not getting pissy here, just saying we do what we have to do. If I had the money for better stuff, you know damned sure Id have it! But until that time comes..... :dunno: :cheers:

And in case you don't know... JK wrangler is 2007 and newer TJ wrangler is upto 2006... round headlights YJ wrangler- can't think of the years, but square headlights, leaf spring front suspension. Note, the ZJ Grand cherokee 1993?-1998 front axle will also bolt in.

Thats been on here before, its only a pipe dream..... :chillin:

My 87 had the clock wiring already there, but the fuse had never been used and didnt make good connection, so pull the clock fuse and clean it to make sure that your new clock will work properly. And the wiring between 86 and 87 up clocks are different , so make sure to get the right year for your truck. I found this out the hard way, and now my truck has the connectors for both!