dasbulliwagen

Just pull the bulb out, walk it into the parts store, and match it up!

Hi. I would at least go with 4.56 gears minimum with 35 inch tires. I have 33's with 4.56 on my XJ and it is just about right. Check out this link for gear calculations. You can do side by side comparisons of different ratios. Enter stock values and then what you are going to. Your comanche is looking good. http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html hmmm i hear some where from that 4.10 is good enough for weekend warrior and dd with 35" thanks for link and ill research more :) and yea thanks your mj is looking good too :thumbsup: Its gonna cost the same to do 4:56, as it will to do 4:10, so why not just do the 4:56 and have it done right the first time? Youll be happier in the long run, especially with tires that big.

Rob, What is the earliest known 86 you have seen? I know you can tell by the last six numbers in the VIN how early or late it is. The vin on Betty has me wondering if she might be an extremly early 86, 1JTHL6517GT003550 I think that means she is the 3550 truck off the line in 86. :hmm: Could be Bo. Call the dealer and see if the parts department can shoot you a date of Mfr. Also, I have found holes in the serial number thing, some don't match up in chronological order. But, another thing to note is I was told that the MJ/XJ's shared assy lines, and serial number sequences... So even though you might have a 3550, you might only be the 100th MJ off the line, since they made so many XJ's. Rob L. Tried to run the vin, shows vin not found. your local parts dept will likely come up with the same response. those were deep amc years, and chrysler doesnt have that info. you might try your luck with the direct email to the factory about it, maybe they have better info on those models.

I didnt see my truck in there, so.... maybe. :rotfl2:

I'm pretty sure mine would make a trip like that, but I'm too afraid to try. :(

I gutted and sleeved the conv on my 2.5, and installed a flowmaster 50 series with no noticable change in performance or milage, but then again, the 2.5 is a different story than the 4.0 in this regard. don't worry about your conv, and just put on whatever muffler you want. Good luck.

Is that an S-10 Grille??? I don't think anyone active here on CC would have the bollocks to show their face on here with that grille! Did you leave a CC card? Edit: and what is that website on the windsheild?

YJ units are still available from the dealer, as there was a recall on them, and some of them still pop up here and there, We've done at least two of them on YJ's this year at my dealer. They are VERY similar, and I would think that if you had enough injenuity you could bolt it up one way or another and make it work. Ive kept one of the recalled brake assy's just for this purpose, but havent looked at them side by side to see really how similar they are. Good luck, and let us know what you do. Thanks for the heads up. Any way you could post a picture of the YJ one next to MJ or do you not have an unmounted MJ unit? I don't have an unmounted MJ one, sorry, If I did, I'd do it for you. And I won't have access to the YJ one till Monday, as its under my workbench at work. Let me know if you still want some pics.

Be careful with those new style plastic drain valves, they like to break off after several years of being in the tank. Either that, or they shrink up at the threaded in part and start leaking. Ive had both happen to me, and repaired them many more times when I was working as an electrical and plumbing repair technician. Replaced a TON of water heaters too. Youre lucky to get that many years on an electric unit.... most of them, at least in my area, don't go more than 10 years, gas ones usually go 15-20. I plan on trying to afford a tankless unit when the time comes for my next one. Would be a nice upgrade! Looks like you did nice clean job of it too! Keep up the good work!

I don't have any pics of my Ghias, but I do have one of my old personalized plates, seen below. I even named my daughter GHIA. Didnt take much convincing for my wife to agree to it either! I didnt have huge powerplants in any of my bugs or Ghias, but in my 59 Microbus, I had a built 1776cc CBPerformance motor with dual 2 barrel 48mm throttle bodies port fuel injection, serpentine pulley system, ported and polished big valve heads, cam, HEI ignition, and header with stinger and supertrapp muffler, with the R+P geared at 4:37 in an IRS type one trans with Type 1 IRS conversion kit, and dropped front spindles, with 5 spoke Empi wheels and 195/45R15 Yokohama tires. That thing would SCREAM! Anyways.... :shake:

YJ units are still available from the dealer, as there was a recall on them, and some of them still pop up here and there, We've done at least two of them on YJ's this year at my dealer. They are VERY similar, and I would think that if you had enough injenuity you could bolt it up one way or another and make it work. Ive kept one of the recalled brake assy's just for this purpose, but havent looked at them side by side to see really how similar they are. Good luck, and let us know what you do.

I put a Flowmaster 50 series on mine, its only slightly louder than stock, but has a nice growl under load, it was 2 1/4 center in, 2 1/4 offset out, thats in my 87 2.5. Love it!

LOVED the bugs! We had a 66 back in 1971 when first married! They were fun to drive. except on a windy day on a two lane road and a semi went by the other way. I think it would actually move a few inches to the right! Another VW guy here.... first one was a 1973 Super Beetle bought from a neighbor to work on as a project in auto body class, I bought a BUNCH of stuff for that car, put a fresh coat of paint on it, then.... went to college, the 73 never got finished, and I never got to drive it. But there were about a dozen other VW's in there after that one, including the 72 I took to college, the 72 Karmann Ghia I bought before finishing college, and a long list of others including a 73 Ghia convertable, and a slammed 59 Microbus panel van, and a couple or rabbits including a diesel. Then there was my last one I sold a year ago, a slammed 68 Beetle. I still want to build a rail, but last fall I sold all my extra VW parts to make room for Jeep stuff, so when the time comes, Ill have to start fresh. :roll:

A cracked flex plate would be much noisier than just a ticking.

Keep up the good fight! And keep learning... theres always something new to figure out :cheers: !

Not in Florida. :banana:

I did this to mine this year, havent done any write-up on it though. My power parts were from an 86 though, it doesnt really matter what year the donor is. If you still have access to your donor, you may want to go back and see if it has a seperate cross body harness that can be removed from it, and put into your truck. Ive hear that the late models had a seperate wiring harness that went from door to door. If you can get that, it will make your job much much easier. I had to find the proper year wiring diagrams, and make my own harness. it is about 8 or 9 wires that run across to the passenger door, and then theres a hot lead that plugs into the fuse box, and a ground to hook up..... I think. The wiring for the rear doors at least in mine were in their own seperate connector, so I just left it unhooked, and the switches in the door are just unused, but if you find a switch from a 2 door cherokee, it will just swap in and you won't have the 2 extra switches. My doors also have power mirrors, but I didnt try to wire them up yet, I know the mirror motors don't work well in mine, so I'm not too worried about it right now... if I ever get some good ones, then I might change my mind. Good luck!

Best wheels are stock wheels 15x7 with original backspacing of around 5 1/4", and you can't lift it and not affect the steering, if you don't get an alignment, youll eat up your brand new tires in no time! AND maybe cause death wobble! GET AN ALIGNMENT TOO! :thumbsup:

As last post said, your block will have to inspected and measured to know what size overbore it might need, and thus what oversized pistons youll need to use, same goes for the rod and main bearings, cam bearing size usually isnt an issue, but if youre rebuilding, youll want a new cam and new lifters, as the old ones are probably pretty well worn. And don't let the rebuilder KNURL the valve guides.... PUT NEW ONES IN! Some cheaper rebuilders will knurl the inside of the valve guide to take up for wear, this makes them fit the hole nice, but it also allows for extra oil loss into the combustion chamber. NOT GOOD! Take the whole thing apart yourself and clean it best you can, send the block and head to the machine shop to be machined and have new guides installed, cylinders bored, journals ground, seats ground to three angles and valves ground, the machinist will tell you the right sized parts to buy and either assmble it themselves, or give it all back to you to put back together. If you are going to do this, do it right, youll be happier in the end.

Just looked on our DIY section and found a subject for it. viewtopic.php?f=9&t=24971

I have to assume yours is a tilt column, it is a GM column, just do a search for GM tilt column repair or rebuild or loose or whatever, and youll find a million links to repairs for this common problem. Good luck!

The consoles are the same between auto and stick, just have a different insert to the shifter or boot, also the same for 2wd and 4wd, theres another insert in place of the TC shifter if its 2wd. And Ive had luck painting door panels with Krylon plastic paint, did the set in my truck now to match the black interior, theyre holding up pretty good so far, but with the soft vinyl like on the center armrest, it may take FOREVER for the paint to satisfactorily dry. And taillights, all years interchange.

31" tires will fit a stock MJ, but ZJ V8 front coils, and some Chevy drop shackles in the back will give you what youre looking for. Make sure to do an alignment after you do the lift, as it will screw up the toe in your steering, and maybe make your steering wheel off center. And for whoever does the alignment, make sure they adjust your caster too. Good luck!

87-95 will. The 86's had a different bolt up style for the header panel with the headlights, and the 96 newer ones had different doors, fenders, and header, though they will bolt up, but arent the same parts. Or maybe 97 up was the different ones, I can't remember, to be safe though, stay 95 and older. The difference in the late model fenders is that the front top corner edge is curved, rather than angled. The curve matches the late style header panel. The doors will bolt up but need modification to the striker on the B-pillar, and they have one peice windows.