dasbulliwagen

:agree: Yes this is old news, its just now coming up that the end of its production is near. I can't say that they have been bad cars, but they really werent a good replacement for the neon. That, and the stupid CVT transmissions they put in them are horrible. Makes me really hate to have to drive one. The end of the Caliber platform is also the end of the CVT trans, and with the new small cars comes a new dual dry clutch trans that is much more efficient.

You can get 3" spring under leaves, and do a 3"in fornt, maybe with some control arm drop brackets and an adjustable track bar. Maybe even adjustable control arms for better adjustabilty in front end geometry and tire clearnace. Though if you don't want to go that far, some spacers in the front, some shackels in the rear, and some WJ lower control arms will be all you need for 31"s.

What year is yours. Ill try to look up service info on alldata and see if thats right. My 2.5 only has the one at the condensor, not the one next to the compressor. Maybe someone needed a line and grabbed one that fit from another model. There are some vehicle that do the two canister thing though.

The can is the receiver dryer, and is a required part of the AC system, it stores extra refrigerant and system oil, and has a dessicant in it that removes any moisture from inside the system, as the AC oil is hydroscopic like brake fluid and if theres too much moisture in there, it could cause compressor damage. It could be that you just need an O-ring at the connection you pointed out, but if its a bad line, then you will need to replace the whole thing as a unit. Theres no other way without having expensive custom parts made. Good luck.

I'm sorry if I offended you. That was not my intention, but re reading, I can see how it came off that way. I did not know the other details that you were in the middle of the job already. That may have made a differance in my advice. I just didnt want to see you start a job the wrong way and end up doing more work for yourself than you really needed to. Body work is a slow and tedious process and there really arent any GOOD shortcuts. It sounds like you are going in the right direction, so keep it up, and make that MJ something you will be even more proud of.

I really don't mean to be rude here, but if you have to ask if you can remove automotive paint with a pressure washer, you really have no business doing bodywork. Aircraft stripper will get the job done, but its going to be a huge mess, and will need to be washed (neutralized) and sanded before primer can be applied. If all you have is factory paint and no additional layers, a good sanding should be all you need before primer is applied. And rust spots, you won't get a smooth surface after removing the rust, youll need filler like bondo to smooth it back out after rust removal. And if you use a regular grey laquer primer, and you let it sit too long before final paint, it will rust through the primer and then need to be done all over again. If you want to do this right, either save up and pay someone to do it all at once with the correct materials, or do some more research and try to do it yourself in as short of a timeframe as possible. I wish you luck.

I still get the stupid web ring thing too sometimes, theres really no rhyme nor reason to when it pops up, but like was stated, go to history, and then click on CC with the index listed, and it will usually stop for a little while. And if I'm on a public computer it comes up, I usually just go to google search, search CC, and click on the address with index listed with it to get here. WHere theres a will theres a way.

W. WT Harris and Statesville Rd intersection, in behind the hotel there on the corner. Chrysler moved backin over here in April, they don't have any signs up.

XJ and by default Mj makes number 47 on Edmonds.com top 100 cars of all time list. Most of these I agree with, if only for them to be on the list, but there is at least one, the Nissan Leaf which doesnt yet deserve to be up there, due at least to lack of sales and lack ofit yet to prove itself. Enjoy. http://www.allpar.com/news/index.php/20 ... p-100-list

I know they are, I'm just making light of the reputation these axles have on Jeep forums like ours. Its crazy to imagine just how many millions of vehicles these axles have been put under over the years. I know with the 35 it was at least still in use through 2006 on the TJ. I'm not sure if they were still used after that in the KJ's or not, pretty sure a bunch of them got the 8 1/4's. Anyways, my Comanche with all of its 348,000 miles did it all with a 35 underneath of it. can't be all bad, but then again we all know they arent all good either.

HAHAHAHAHA!!!! no.

I think that timer is supposed to remind you to replace your O2 sensor, and if your truck has been sitting for a while it might need a new one anyways. Mine sat for 4 years before I got it, and it ran like crap, till I replaced the O2 sensor (and other things, but the O2 sensor put it over the top to a good running truck)

I am in Charlotte, NC today and Friday for a Chrysler training class, and guess what I had to work on in class all day today? I learned how to rebuild a Dana 35.... WHAT A WASTE OF TIME! :fs1: The other part of my class had the pleasure of rebuilding an aluminum Dana 44! More wasted time. :nuts: Tommorow we will get into the corporate axles, and the IRS rear ends in the LX cars, and diagnose a problem with a JK Rubi locker. Tommorow might not be a waste as much as today was. At least I had the pleasure of having lunch at FIVE GUYS!!! :banana:

I don't have any experience with drop brackets, but looking at the prices of long arms makes the drop brackets look real nice, especially if you have a rig that will be street driven more than off roaded. I can peice together a lift and add a new set of drop brackets for way less than half the cost of a long arm kit and get me to the height and offroadability that suits my needs. If I were building a dedicated off road rig, long arms would be better, and would be preffered. You need to decide which will be best for you and your wallet.

If you go all terrain, one of the best tires, especially for the price would be the Yokohama Geolander A/T. They are highly rated, and very nicely priced, especially at http://www.tirerack.com . I have a set of them on my Hyundai Tucson, and plan on buying a set for the MJ next spring in either a 31 or a 32. Good luck, let us know what you end up with.

That body style 73-81 (82? can't remember which year they didnt make them... 82-83?) is not really worth much yet. Youll have more into resto than the car will be worth when finished, unless youre gonna turn it into a dragster, and cut it up, then it might be worth it....never did care for those years of vette.

I REALLY don't think that Comanches, or Cherokees of that era were fitted with ambient temp sensors. It looks to me like it should be for fog lights, there should be another one just like it in the same bundle. And if there isnt another... then I have no idea... I just don't see it as being for an ambient temp sensor.

O2 sensor will make it run like crap too, especially if its a 2.5.... some more details on your setup would be great to know.

Do you have a link to this article? We HAVE to see this!

I thought you were gonna say a weekend for two at Pete's house!

Your link, just goes to youtube, not the video, so I went a looked for it. It was OK, but I like this Jeep commercial better!

The kinda "L" shaped connector is a diagnostic port used with the old chrysler scan tools. The others I couldnt really tell you, but there are always a bunch of unused connectors that they left hanging when building our trucks. It is most likely that the disconnected connectors you have just werent part of your trucks build or options.

Welcome to the club. We could help a little better if we had more details of your truck (engine, trans, 2wd/4wd, modifications... etc) and what part of the county you live in (meaning amount of rust you may or may not be dealing with). This place is addictive, and so are these trucks... you have been warned! :brows:

I wanted a nice clean look too, but don't like the step bumpers. I custom made brachets for the rear to mount chrome cherokee rear bumper. It fit nicely with a little trimming of the plastic end caps to match the contour of the rear lower bed corners. You can see pics of the build in my build thread "Comanche Limited". Sorry, I'm not sure how to link to my own thread yet. For a trailer hitch I'm building a hidden hitch for the bumper, and I still need a front bumper plate mount to mount my rear plate better.

There will be few if any dealers who will keep this in stock becasue of its cost, size, and limited customer base. There will be a few larger dealers who will convert, but they will be in LARGE market areas only where they know they can sell it. Our little small town dealer did a different truck kit on a used TJ, and it sat on the lot, unsold for almsot two years because no one wanted to pay that price for a used Jeep.