dasbulliwagen

Mine came with a plug in the hole in the fender. All the wiring for a radio were still there just no radio and no antenna. I had to remove the block off plate to install a factory radio. The radio fuse was already in the fusebox too.

here's mine!

:cheers:

They have been issuing recalls with no parts available alot lately. This seems to be a relatively new thing for them as I have never seen them do this till this year. All it does is piss the customers off ( the ones who don't fully read the letter they get) when they come to the dealership with their letter and we send them away. It must be a way for Chrysler to cover their buts until they can really fix an issue. A way for them to say they were wroking on it if they ever get sued for any of these issues.

I had to make a cross body harness for mine to get them to work. Theres not only the windows, but the locks, and mirrors to think about. I used the downloadable factory service manual wiring diagrams to build mine for my 87, using 86 donor doors. I have heard some say that some models have a seperate cross body harness that can be pulled with the doors and make it pretty much plug and play. You may want to research that route if youre not good with electrics.

Some pics would be great, but the turbines are probably the stock wheels. The steel style you describe were stock on base Wranglers, Comanches and Cherokees... mine actually came with them. If youre looking for a whole new set, you have a ton of vehicles to choose from. MJ, XJ, ZJ, TJ, LX (2005-up Chrysler 300, Dodge Charger, Magnum... hub and backspacing is even the same and most are 17 inch or larger. There are examples of them being used on NAXJA), Ford Ranger, Explorer. Might be time for a junkyard trip!

I used an adjustable fan controller available from any performance parts supplier. I bought some brass fittings and installed the sensor into the bypass line going through the intake manifold ( mine is a 2.5 ) but it would work similarly on the 4.0

WOW! Really? Talk about taking the name litrerally. Ive never even thought about it like that. And how many people that read that even know what a Comanche is? It was a big leap for them to do that.

You don't need a special tool, but it sure does help. if you can find something that will push the piston in while at the same time allowing you to screw it back in you should be able to get this done. I have done it before with only a pair of needle nose pliers with the points in opposing slots on the piston while pushing in on it and turning it in at the same time. This screw action takes up for wear in the rear pads and allows the parking brake to still work with wear on the pads.

Another quick search finds this listing from Edelbrock. http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/manifolds/chevy/performer-v6.shtml

here's a link to one after a quick search. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Chevy-GMC-2-8-Weber-Carburetor-Conversion-kit-/330622473258

There is a Holley/Weber 2 bbl progressive carb kit available that comes with an adapter plate. This will be the easiest and most direct way to get the truck running again. I couldnt tell you right now who has them though, but you need to buy a new carb anyways, so I think this will be what you need with the least amount hassel. You can then research and figure out the injection thing and add it later. This all assumes the bottom end of the engine is Ok, otherwise that Fiero 2.8 may be going in sooner rather than later. Good luck!

AT the Chrysler Mazda dealer I work at we also have Alldata. I find Chryslers service info is great and has the linkable wiring diagrams for the newer models, but mazda on the other hand has horrible service info. I find it easier to use alldata for mazda stuff beacuse its better organized and has basically word for word procedures, but Mazda is also one of those like described with the heater core... remove dash, remove heater core, reistall in reverse order. Its up to you to go search for dash and trim removal procedures. I didnt know Mitchell had a service like this till the other day. The guy that mentioned it said it was much better than alldata, but I really have no experience with it.

The ones I got are new 2013 takeoffs, the standard 5 spoke aluminums in 17 inch with Goodyears on them around 32 inches tall. I know the taller tire is going to kill any power I may have had with my 2.5. But I do have 4:10 gearing, and past research told me that the speedo gear from my AX4 from the 3:55 gears will read near perfect MPH with 32 inch tires and 4:10 gears.... that I assume will make it feel like I have the 3:55 gears again and make 5th gear all but unusable. I guess I could live with that. The BFG All terrains on my current wheels are all but done right now. Theres still a little tread left, but the dry rot is starting to worry me. For $200 the new wheel and tire combo will be fine. If not, I will sell the Jk's and re install another set of 235's I have.

There is a sticky thread called Worlds fastest comanche and in there are a couple pics about building a drop beam front end using another 2wd front beam.... involving cutting the ends off one and the middle out of the other and welding them one on top ot the other, thus keeping oil pan clearance but giving the effect of a dropped spindle. Yeah its a lot of work, but the only way to get any real drop in the front end.

There are a couple of MJ diesel gurus on here. Just give them a little time tio chime in and youll be all set!

Yes these are VERY cool. But arent there enough real trucks you could do features on?

Thanks for the replies. I'm still wondering if the MJ Dana 30 axles will spline into the WJ unit bearings. I think that might be the biggest hangup if they are different.

Just got a set of new take off JK wheels and tires for $200, and I'm looking at wheel adapters as I mentioned in another thread. Now I'm wondering about WJ knuckles for the front and instead of adapting it to 5x4.5, just leaving it original. Does anyone know if the XJ dana 30 axles will fit the the WJ unit bearing hubs? I'm thinking that the hole in the hub is going to be too big. I don't think the spacer adapter is needed in this situation as I wouldnt be changing bearings and the turing point for the axle would stay the same in relation to the ball joints. I know different ball joints are needed to make this work, but if the hub hole is too big, is there a way to adapt this? Am I remembering correctly that there were a few WJ's with regualr U-joint front axles? I'm a Jeep dealer tech and Ive never seen any. Would one of these be needed with an adapter U-joint to the XJ axle in order for this to work? I know this is a lot of questions, but throwing a brake upgrade in there with the new wheels would be another bonus. I have a set of WJ knucles already, without calipers, just sitting in storage. It will be cheaper to just buy some adapters I know, but it has my wheels spinning.

Ok, maybe I should have worded my question better. Looking around I'm finding billet aluminum, anodized , hub centric spacers from Spidertrax, Synergy, and G2. I know these are what I need. Who would have the best price for these? I guess thats mostly what I want to know.

Who has the best wheel adapters/ spacers to adapt a set of JK wheels to my MJ? I know spidertrax has a good name, but I think I would have to spend the same amount on spacers as what the JK wheels/tires cost me. I know hub centric is better too, is there any out there that is all that and a good price? Thanks!

Theres a 3.2 version of this motor coming out in the new Cherokee in another month or so. And there is talk of a 3.0 version possibly with direct injection or some kind of forced induction. This engine coupled with the 8 speed in the Grand cherokee is a decent runner powerwise. it feels much more peppy than the old 3.7 and when the 8 speed kicks down, you WILL be passing someone real quick! I agree about the long term reliability still being a question mark. I just hope they have their bad cylinder heads issue worked out. They arent any fun to change.

This may be a good candidate for a swap. The hard part would be its complex electrical system. They have built in exhaust manifolds so building downpipes would be relaitively easy. If youve ever driven a 3.8 Wrangler, and then driven a 3.6 Pentastar Wrangler, its like night and day in the power difference. We get complaints from owners of Chryselr 200's and Dodge Avengers with this motor in them having torque steer issues under full throttle. I can't imagine what one would do in a 3000 lb Comanche!

I just did the same thing last weekend. The cone is only pressed into place. It makes the metal portion of the rod about a half inch longer when fully seated. And it is needed to get full disengagement.

Attempted to finish bleeding my clutch setup today after fighting with it last weekend. Figured out why it wouldnt bleed all the way. The way the engine and trans setup is, it puts the bleeder screw lower than the top of the slave, thus keeping a bubble of air in there. Removed it so I could get the bleeder to the top, which worked great. I re assembled it and then had NO clutch pedal movement... it was just rock hard and wouldnt press down. Figured out this is what happens when the slave pushrod is already all the way out, it wasnt seated in the throwout arm, so it came apart again, I made sure the rod was seated, and re tested, clutch was better, but still wasnt releasing all the way. That made me think about the original slave from the 86. It had a plastic tip on it where the new one didnt. So out came the slave again, and I compared the pushrod lengths, the one with the plastic tip was a half inch longer than the new one. It didnt look like the tip was supposed to come off the old rod, as it was so rusty, but I was able to twist it off and install it on the new one. Re installed again and all is good with the world! I can drive my MJ again! And all 5 of the gears work too! Now I need to pull the seat and floor mat and drill the holes for the transfer case shifter support. Then all the other things on the list! Oh and no speedo till I get a new longer cable.