dasbulliwagen

That would be cool. We are about 1 1/2 hours from RDU area.

I met up with C1111toro (Chris) yesterday to check out each other's trucks and so I could listen to a noise he's having. The noise wasn't cooperating so I couldn't narrow it down, but it was great meeting a fellow MJ owner. He got to check out my krustyballer hitch and it looks like he'll be ordering one! And I'll be hooking him up with a set of JK shocks for his truck. I don't think Chris has any posts here yet, but he has a beautiful truck and he genuinely wants to preserve it and enjoy it.

And back on with the rear bumper after I cut a couple notches so it would sit flush with the hitch.

You asked about the later front axle beam or WJ brakes. I vote WJ knuckles with the good brakes as well as a WJ dual diaphragm booster and master. I'm not sue what size wheels you have now, but the WJ front brakes might not take a 15 inch aluminum wheel due to clearance issues. Just something to consider. I have a set of WJ knuckles in storage for a future 2wd project. Keep up the good work!

Ive been thinking of doing this myself when I get around to recovering my bench. There are kits available to install the heating elements under your factory covers.

Yes, hybrid, but has the 44 center section and is referred to as a Dana 44.

Its not a Rubi if it has the Dana 30 front axle. The Rubi got a 44 front axle among other things

I second the hidden winch idea with a stock front bumper. Either that or a front hitch setup with a winch in a receiver. I'm working on that myself right now. I just installed my new Scarfab (Krustyballer) rear hitch, and the front one is next. The front hitch can be had from Amazon or anywhere you can get hitch stuff.

Installed my Scarfab (Krustyballer) hitch that Ive had sitting around for better than a year. My truck was rear bumper delete from the factory, so none of the bolt holes back there were threaded. Otherwise it went on easy. I had to modify my XJ rear bumper a little to get it back on with the hitch, but it all worked out.

I've never heard of this before. I'll have to look into if it makes a difference or not. I have them on the front too. Ones that are made specifically for XJ/MJ lift. There's only one way to install those, body down. So I guess I assumed that the rear would be the same way.

They are Bilstein 5100's that were originally speced for a rear lift on a Ram 1500. I have no idea what the part number is for them. Sorry.

Just put in what was similar to what it was originally. It only adjusts caster, so you'll have no issues driving it to get it aligned even with no shims in it. Just don't go too fast before you know your caster angle is correct. You can adjust it yourself if you want to. Pull all four wheels off and put same height Jack stands under the front and rear axles so full body weight is on the axles. Then get an angle finder tool and set it on top of the upper ball joint. This will give you your caster angle and you can adjust with shims to get it where you want it. Spec is 5.5-7.5 degrees positive. If you do this part yourself, you won't have to worry about if the alignment shop does it or not.

I notched the lower edge of the rear bumper, and it bolted right up. It looks pretty good. Now I need to figure out how I want to mount the license plate. Here are some pictures.

A low pedal with little resistance could mean that your rear brake shoes and drums are worn or out of adjustment, or it could be, as with happened to my truck, the cables sheaths rusted and collapsed on themselves and not allowing full pedal force to get to the park brake shoes. Have someone work the pedal for you while you watch the cables for odd movement like the cable accordianing. If the cables look ok and don't accordian, then Id look into the shoes and drums.

It is based on JK/JL underpinnings.

I will do that. I'm curious myself as well. As for the tap, I'm thinking I'll remove the spare tire, drill a hole in the frame rail opposite the weld nut and try to punch it out from the backside. Then I'll tap the hole and install the last bolt

I finally got around to installing my Scarfab hitch. Thank you Brandon Scarbrough for this extremely well made hitch. It fit perfectly. But I do have a few issues that have nothing to do with the hitch. First off, my truck was originally rear bumper delete. And evidently this means that they don't tap the holes for the bumper with threads. I started trying to tap the first hole, and was having issues keeping it straight doing it in the tight confines under the bed. Long story short, I broke the tap off in the hole. That stopped my work on it Saturday after work. So off to Lowe's to buy a new tap... I got two just in case. So today after work I started again. The new tap has a larger square drive on its end that ended up fitting perfectly into a 9mm socket, that I then put on an air wratchet. The remaining holes were done in 2-3 minutes with that setup. And the hitch installed no problem. I'll have to deal with the broken tap later though. My next issue has to do with the XJ Cherokee rear bumper I installed years ago. I have interference issues with the hitch and the bottom of the bumper. It looks like I should be able to just cut a couple notches in the bumper and be good, maybe add some spacers to the bumper mount. I'll figure it out, but it's just taking a little longer than I thought. Again at no fault of the hitch. Here are some pictures. The first one is hard to see, but it shows the smooth bore untapped holes.

I finally got around to installing my Scarfab hitch. Thank you Brandon Scarbrough for this extremely well made hitch. It fit perfectly. But I do have a few issues that have nothing to do with the hitch. First off, my truck was originally rear bumper delete. And evidently this means that they don't tap the holes for the bumper with threads. I started trying to tap the first hole, and was having issues keeping it straight doing it in the tight confines under the bed. Long story short, I broke the tap off in the hole. That stopped my work on it Saturday after work. So off to Lowe's to buy a new tap... I got two just in case. So today after work I started again. The new tap has a larger square drive on its end that ended up fitting perfectly into a 9mm socket, that I then put on an air wratchet. The remaining holes were done in 2-3 minutes with that setup. And the hitch installed no problem. I'll have to deal with the broken tap later though. My next issue has to do with the XJ Cherokee rear bumper I installed years ago. I have interference issues with the hitch and the bottom of the bumper. It looks like I should be able to just cut a couple notches in the bumper and be good, maybe add some spacers to the bumper mount. I'll figure it out, but it's just taking a little longer than I thought. Again at no fault of the hitch. Here are some pictures. The first one is hard to see, but it shows the smooth bore untapped holes.

All that, and yet they only made a very few Comanches in '92. Makes me wonder if they did all this up before they decided to ax it completely to help out the Dakota numbers.

4 wheel high is for normal driving on loose surfaces. You should be able to shift while moving. 4 wheel low is for low speed high power situations. The low range acts as a torque multiplier and allows the truck to crawl over very rough terrain, but at very low speeds. Low range is not to be used on road at all.

^^^ Nice catch. That would make it a chop and section build.

Its rare that anyone in any of the newer Jeeps wave at me in my Comanche, just mostly because most of them have no idea what it is, especially one with a Wagoneer grille assy. But I love most all the Jeeps and will wave just to be nice. In my town and local Jeep group there is a built to the hilt Renegade Trailhawk that does a lot of trail rides and is very competant in its own right and deserves to be acknowledged much more than most JK/JL/JT mall crawlers. Its all good and it feels better to be nice to everyone than it does to be an @$$ to certain Jeep owners because of what they drive. If they are enthusiastic about the brand, thats all that matters.

When I did the JK shocks, all I needed was a bench vice, some different sized sockets and some silicone lube to press the bushings out. No press needed.

My 87 2.5 sat for 4 years before I got it. It ran , but just barely. I did all the usual tune up stuff, and several bottles of fuel system cleaner through it. It all helped but it kept having a lingering stumbling issue. I finally replaced the oxygen sensor, and its run great ever since. Go through Cruisers tips and throw an O2 sensor in there and see what happens. Good luck.

I just looked them up...… they cost too much for what they are. Way too much!