dasbulliwagen

:agree:

Search for a good used 3.1/3.4 engine instead of buying a rebuilt... that should save you a ton right there! :thumbsup:

I researched all the oil threads last night and went to wally world... found the only one really listed as SL was Mobil 1 High milage... I bought a bottle of 10/40 and plan on changing the oil today. It also has the ACEA A3 rating which was supposed to be the best for us as well. Though I wasnt planning on switching the 'ol girl over to synth though.... Ill just have to see what happens if the leaks get any worse or not. Changed it last time with Castrol GTX high milage dino which hasnt given me any problems. Good info here!

Installing the 3.4 would not be trying to get one over on her, it is simply the updated version of that particular engine that did away with the problems inherent to the 2.8. Simple as that! Now saying that you NEEDED a 350 in there would be trying to get one over on her. Saying that you can't install a 350 without adding a 4.5" lift kit would be getting one over on her! Saying that the new lift kit will need 33x12.50x15 tires to make everything correctly proportioned would be getting one over on her! Just tell her all this, and the 3.4 will be let right in the door! Good luck man! Youre gonna need it!

Willys pickup! NICE! Probably has a 4cy flathead engine, but I really don't know for sure.

What are you going to do with the parking brake? Or are you just leaving it out? Just curious! Nice work!

My new donor cherokee has the A904 trans in it with the NP228 TC. Does anyone have any opinions one way or another if this trans is worth keeping for a future project? Is it as reliable as the AW4 or is it junk? Just trying to work with what I have if its worth it. And also... from a previous thread question... Will the NP228 bolt up to and be usable on an AX5? Thanks for the help guys!

Also the 3.1 from same vehicle, though I don't know the years for them. I have 2 86's now and am entertaining this as a future project as well. The 3.1/3.4 swap would be the easiest, quickest way to get you going again. As Jeepcomj says you may want to look into keeping the fuel injection from whatever donor you get... somehow possible to wire it up standalone and do away with the horrid 2.8 carb setup. Good luck

You and me both!

A cherokee bumper will not bolt up to an MJ without custom made brackets and trimming of the end caps. Though I havent tried it the MJ brackets if you still have them may bolt in place of the XJ brackets and allow it to be bolted up with trimming of the endcaps... though I really don't know for sure. I made brackets to mount an XJ bumper...

M715????? Oh please be an M715!!!!! I want one sooooooooo bad! Or maybe an FC150 or FC170?????? I can't wait to see what this is! :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:

I got my 2.5 under similar circumstances... been sitting mostly for several years. I tuned it up, put several bottles of fuel system cleaner through it, and it helped little by little. The thing that helped it most was a new O2 sensor, and its run great ever since, realtively speaking. As for what to expect.... don't expect too much and you won't be dissappointed. Anything you do for performance ains are going to be marginal at best, but your best bet would be to go to 4:10 axle gearing assuming you are going to stay stock height. Your auto may have better gearing already.... I think car-part.com listed 4:10 as an axle choice for 86... that should have come on the 5 speed manuals, but it could be under the auto as well, youll need to confirm this though. There a several ways to do it. But ways to pick up a little peformance are to do away with the engine driven cooling fan and replace it with an electric unit and controller, some say throttle body spacers work, cold air intake, Gut the cat converter..... but this could cause problems with loss of backpressure though I have experienced no problems with it myself, high flow muffler, header- from various sources, cam- if you can find one, Clifford performance make an intake for it for an aftermarket fuel injection setup or a carb, port and polish head...... if you REALLY REALLY want to keep the 2.5 those are your options, but for the low cost of a donor cherokee, you could have a complete 4.0 driveline... but wheres the fun in that??? Jeep ran 2.5 equipped Comanches in SCCA sucessfully for many years, so theres got to be some good to hopping them up. Feel free to ask any questions here, and ignore all the naysayer that just tell you to swap to a 4.0... unless you really want to!

That sounds like him... diesel fuels class...great guy...tons of experience... one of those walking encyclopedia guys whos been there and done that... TWICE, and can back up whatever he says... the kinda guy you like to keep around to bail you out of shiznit!

All should be the same as previously posted except the transfer case like Pete said, NP231, and could be a short bed, if its a 5 speed AX5 then 4:10 gears, if its a 4 speed AX4 then 3:55 gears, Long bed with a 23 gallon tank, short bed with 16 gallon tank.

who taught that class, Frank Dixon? I'm horrible with peoples names, so I really didnt pay attention to his name, but it does sound familiar. Training was in Charlotte, NC on tuesday and wednesday this week.

I just got done with Chrysler level 3 Diesel training, and from what they were saying in class, the 2.8 is a much better engine than the 3.0 v6. They say that the 3.0 injectors like to let carbon past the injector seals and literally cement themselves into the cylinder heads after a while! You could attach a cherry picker to one of the injectors and lift the whole engine before the injector would come out of the head.... and the complexity of that engine is just ridiculous! For a chrysler tech there is no rebuilding of this engine.... only complete replacement! AT $25,000 for a long block too. Mercedes build them for $4000, sells them to Chyrsler for $16,000, and Chrysler sells them for $25,000... Thats called Matrix pricing! The 2.8 is an actual industrial engine, more reliable, and much less complicated and (relatively) inexpensive.

:needpics:

A stainless flowmaster 50 series would be close to the sound you want, but I don't think anything will give you the rumble you are expecting merely because its going onto a 2.5. Ive got the Flowmaster 50 on my 2.5 with a gutted cat and its still pretty queit, but has a little growl under load. A 40 series may be too loud though, but will still sound like a 4 cylinder.

Jeepcomj called those parts before I even looked at this Jeep.... it funny that it does have them and the seats are in pretty good shape.... but too, I'm considering a blue interior for my 86 Comanche if I ever build it. Either way, nothing is going to happen anytime soon, but I have it on record here that you are interested! :thumbsup:

Finally got my camera and my laptop together to get pics up. Solid donor, I'm still hashing through the possibilities of either fixing it, or just parting it out. Its missing some structural sheetmetal up front too.... not sure if Ill mess with it or not. here's the bad parts... missing part of front inner fender area and part of core support....looks like it was prepared for a new panel that never got put on. Would be easy enough to weld one back in if I found another donor for the inner sheetmetal.

My 87 is getting an AX5 from an 86 that has a 207 mounted to it already. Sorry for the confusion.

My new parts Cherokee has Selec-trac... I think an NP228, is this directly swappable with the NP207, and would it be a worthwhile swap considering all the vac lines and crap that goes along with the 228? I was just wondering seeing as thats what I have available. And did the Selec-trac jeeps have the vac-disconnect front axles or not? I have yet to go over my new parts truck real good yet and was just wondering if this was a good swap into my 87. Thanks!

The pic did come from a JeepSRT8 forum, so thats all those prissy little rich boys know. Just look at that pic and imagine the real possibilities.... maybe someone with some good photoshop experience can FIX it for us! Show them what a Jeep really is!

Ive done a million of these, but there is no easy way to get the door open. Youll need to remove the inner door panel from the inside... I know not easy, and then you can pull the window regulator cable out of the door latch mechanism where it is currently jammed. The inner door panel is held on by a couple screws and a bunch of push clips...if you can get a grip on the lower edge you should be able to pull it off and then youll be able to fix the door not opening by removing the cable that jammed itself in there.. Good luck! Just re read more carefully... look to see if the regulator cable is jammed in the latch and pull it out.... when the regulator goes bad, it shoots the cable out that end and right into the latch. Reach in and pull it out... the latch should then work!

http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/forums/show ... hp?t=38982 The post says not to copy his pic witout permission, so Ill just give you the link above.