daking

another vote for repo tail lights.

Great post. We'll my current MJ is my dream MJ. However, thats NOT what this thread is about. Actually, johnny quest, I've wanted to do nearly exactly what you want. I want to build a modern HEMI drive-train and toss it in an MJ. I have a ~600+ HP 426 HEMI in my RAM truck, and its insane. But drop a modified HEMI in a MJ, it would be totally bonkers! Even if it's not a 600+HP engine. Just toss in a ~400+HP HEMI into an MJ, it will fly. With the power to weight ratio, even a stock HEMI will be fun to drive. I have seen an XJ with a HEMI engine, so it fits. Also, would like to build a Baja MJ. Possibly also with a Hemi, or bossted 4.X. However, my next project is to rebuild my 78' Power-Wagon. Then, if nothing new happens, I may start building a Hemi MJ. I like to turn "thought to reality"

I removed the resistor, connected the wires to a relay, on the NC (Normally Closed). That is, if the relay is not getting power to the coil, the fuel pump will get power. Basically straight through. I then connected that relay to my auto alarm. This alarm has a Cell phone module, and thus my MJ has a phone number. If my truck is stolen, I can call him up. He will txt me his location. I can txt and have my MJ turn off the fuel pump. If the MJ goes out of a pre selected range (say, 30mi of my home), then my MJ will txt me his location. There are some other security features of this alarm. So, who else s MJ calls home, when he is lost? :yes: Of course, just adding a simple switch to interrupt the wires that connected to the resistor will be cool too. And it will baffle "would be" thief, as the truck would start and run, then stall-out seconds later as the system switches from full 12v to the resistor.

Fuel tank sending unit bed bar / roll bar real gas tank skid ( I have an original metal gas take skid plate already) Rock sliders, or side bars that can actually hold weight Aftermarket Transmission controller rear axle brake leveling valve and misc parts related HD or Aumn rear drive shaft frame stiffeners Lund Visor Dually rear fenders ( and kit to add dual rear tires) factory cub holders (Oh, wait, JEEP decided Comanche owners don't drink n drive, so they omitted cup holders. Sadly the Comanche was not being built during the "Great Cup Holder Wars" of the late 90's. )

where did you buy that plate holder? Did you modify it to fold, or is that how it came? If you made it, can you post a better pic of it? Thanks

Looks real good man!

Thanks, Its my new pride. I actually just bought it. I'm building the enclosed part as a full shop, and part RV. Just some fold out beds, sofa, and table. Tool wise, it'll be outfitted with everything needed to take a whole truck apart, and put it back together. I'm installing a 15,000BTU cooler this weekend, about 3 times the size needed, so should be nice n chilly. Yea, It has rubbed a bit on the back when going on some drives. There is a shelf in the rear that holds the ramps, that shelf as acted like a skid. I may be adding some trailer casters, there is enough room on each side of the shelf. That way the caster won't stick down that low. I think there will only be an inch or so below the frame. Besides, toss that 2500HD into 4-low, and it'll drag that trailer, even with all 6 wheels off :brows: :) (I would never drag that trailer, by the way) I have a few other trucks that would ride this trailer, it is not just for my MJ. I have a 600+ HEMI 4X4 RAM that will fit the deck fully, and a 70's Power-wagon. I have a second smaller trailer with larger tires. It sits higher, and can go on decent un paved roads. If I need to go off-road, and don't need all the cool stuff, I'll use that one. :) ------------------------------------------------------------------- Jeep Stuff below ----------------------------------- Sometime later this year, my son and I will build a trailer like the one below. For the MJ to pull. This is just to give an idea of my plans, it would not "look" exactly like that. I want a tandem axle design for a larger foot print on sand. It may be more of a flatbed build, with a small enclosed part for tool storage. I want to be able to pull a quad on the little trailer. Not looking for "Camping" build. But something to pull behind the jeep to carry supplies, and a quad or ATV.

Oh man, that awesome !

Here is my MT, "Master Trailer", with my MJ, "Master Jeep" on it :) Image Not Found Image Not Found Actually, I'll be building an off-road trailer for my MJ soon. It'll be a short tandom axle trailer. out fitted with a small tool complement, fuel, recovery stuff, camping stuff, and room to load an ATV. I'm going with tandom axle, to put more of a foot print in the sand.

just saw a red Comanche on "Halt and Catch Fire". At Hotel aird 6/14/2015

Well I'm glad they totaled it. You would have had a bad time if they forced you to fix it. Lower resale value, and I doubt it would ever drive like new again.

Very cool. Looks like fun, goal is to go around the track based on a time, right? I Sand Drag (Not my Comanche). My formula for my race truck is only ~40% on power. That is I'll only spend 40% or so of my energy and budget on the engine (current engine is just shy of $20,000). I apply ~60% of my efforts on other parts of the truck, like suspension, cooling, transmissions, gears, and so on. When I was competing, I was mostly un touchable. Trucks making more then 100HP then me, I was beating them. They wore focused on making more POWER, I was focused on the whole picture. Looks like there are MANY variables in your type of racing, I'd say power as a whole would not be my main focus. What are the rules, or the basics of the rules? Stock engine? body mod's? Suspension mods? so on.. I'm sure you have lots of mods on you truck, I look forward to see and reading about them. So, I may say some things here, that you already know... I'd focus on the suspension, judging by the terrain. Normally I don't like anti-sway bars, but in your case, you may want to look into that. Better bump stops. I use " http://timbren.com/" on most of my stuff. Although, maybe airbags not affixed the the axle may work for you.. Real good shocks, you want one bounce on impact. Power to the wheels will be affected if the truck keeps bouncing after impact. On the engine, Can you swap in a HO 4.0? You can modify the crank sensor to advance your timing a bit. ( I just learned that, I'm a HEMI and LA Mopar guy mostly). You can add a CAM (may be bending the rules). Look at freeing up what power you already have. Electric Fans, Electric Water pump, Alt disconnect when racing, AC removal, better exhaust and intake... Of those, I think electric fans will make the largest change. As you need as must go power as you can get. A clutch fan will slow how fast your engine can rivv. Remove that, and your engine will rivv faster. Tires. You may want to experiment with tires. Go lighter rims, Although I think I see Alum rims on your ride already. Also, smaller, wider tires. The smaller dia, will equate to a lower effective gear ratio. looks like in your type of racing, its all under ~40 or 50MPH. Don't fear the gear, go low. The lower gear will allow for far faster acceleration, and in your case lower gears, greater control. Do you race in 4X4? If so, you may want to look at running a front gear ratio that is just a bit off from your rear. If you can get the front tires spinning just a touch faster then the rear, it will help with turning at speed. (this can also be done with different tires front and rear, or air pressures) I'd experiment with different tire pressures. Soft track? lower pressure. But not too low, as the tire may roll off the bead on a turn. Also, too low of pressure adds resistance to your truck. Speaking of racing in 4X4, do you run 4Hi or 4Low? Depending on your top speed & current gears, running in 4low may net you faster times. On the subject of gears, you may want to look at a locker or limited slip in the rear. I'd go with a limited slip, as it will grant you better control at speed on dirt, over a locker. Because of the rapid turns, I don't think I'd lock the front. keep an open dif. Weight, In that type of racing, Power to weight is important. You need that truck to "jump" forward when you gas it. Making it as light as you can will help. weight distribution is important too. I think I would want the rear to pull down a bit. I noted you had a tire back there, thats a great start. I would re locate the battery back there too. moving ~40# from the front, the rear, effectively is like like removing ~60# from the front. I put the battery on my Comanche under the bed, as far back as I could. Brakes, again, moist racers focus on the "go fast" stuff. You need to apply focus to the whole truck. Having "ok" brakes compared to "Great" brakes will make you FASTER! Being able to slow down later, and maintain greater speed as long as you can. I'd steep back and look at each thing. Don't make too many changes at once. Keep track of the changes. I have a test track at on of my proprieties. I make timed runs, adjust and run again. Get lots of video, don't watch the video, STUDY it. Make sure to video the trucks that are faster then you. Don't just study that, uber study that. Slow mo that. Watch for tire speed, suspension movement, type of tires, kind of engine and so on. Keep your mouth shut. It may be cool to brag about your mods to other racers, but they will take your ideas and run with them. When I race, I give my competitors false information. It's funny, case at the next race they will have applied my false information. If you ain't first, your last.. "Ricky Bobby" :)

For scrap? if so, let me know what you have left that you wore going to dump. I can make a run up there near the end of this month, or early next month. I'll gladly pay scrap prices for a truck or 3. PM me thanks

I'd be pissed. Car will never be the same again, no matter how they fix it. And its value, has just went WAY down. So future sale or trade-in will be much less. I'd try to get them to total it out, or buy it at value.

I may use his in line filter idea, seems much more stable then the Spectre one..

Spectre is what I have now, with driver side hole. The filter housing can't seal proper. The filter element is puny. I was looking at the Thor kit, but I don't think it will work on driver side, due to wiper motor. link to the Bleeping Jeep intake? Thanks

Looks good. I would relocate to the EVAP to under the truck, near the gas tank. That is what I'm doing. But I'm just using a can with charcoal in in. I would put the overflow bottle next to radiator cap. I put mine there, next to the radiator cap, next where the original air inlet is. I bought a cowl intake kit, the filter housing sucks. I'm trying to figure out another solution. I like your drawing, That is an empty part of the engine bay. Any ideas on what you will be using? Image Not Found Image Not Found[/url]

Great picture! Gave me a great visual. And made me just realize some things. I've always wondered why some trucks had SOA, and some had SUA (all brands / types). Spring over axle never made sense to me. However, after seeing this image, I can see some design benefits of SUA. Mainly, on a drive axle (powered axle, like a rear end), a SUA should have much less wheel hop. Cause the axle housing will have less leverage over the spring. And the spring eyelets will be near equal with the housing. Humm. wondering if I should convert my Race RAM rear to SUA, to help control wheel hop under extreme acceleration...

This is what I did Image Not Found However, I'm going to weld on different mounts. I want the mounts to be longer, like "Jeep Drivers" picture. Just mine won't angle down, they will be near level. The longer mounts will help prevent wheel hop.

I may get i n trouble for this, but it fits soo perfect.. :)

napier fender flares on the XJ Bush wacker on the MJ Image Not Found Image Not Found

Here is a bumper my son and I did. Its a JCR, slightly modded. I wanted to add longer side protection too. I did not extend it as far as I wanted. I'll revisit the design later and hopefully extend towards the fender-flares. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

nice!

looks good

The top link for the $18,000 Comanche, Thats a bit too much. If I was going to make an offer, I would offer ~$12,000. It does NOT even have a windshield.. :) The next one for $20,000. Thats just NUTS! I don't think you can even get that for the used parts. Don't get me wrong, there are some hi-dollar parts in that pile of metal, but not ~$10,000 worth. And certainly not $20,000. If I was going to buy that, I'd offer less then $2000.00. My guess is his Wife told him to sell his toys. And he is listing them WAY up there, so nobody buys.