Pete M

my guess is that they are one-offs that Jeep copied later on.

the starter relay gets power from turning the key and then clicks and allows the main batt cable to send power through the big cable down to the stater.

that should be your starter relay. have someone turn the key and check if it's getting 12 volts. if so, it might need replacing. it should make a click sound (I bet you can feel it with your fingers) when the key is turned. also, you should probably clean out all the mud. :D

far as I know, the engine should crank and the lights should work even if the ecu was unplugged. :thumbsup:

...that the "introduce your comanche" thread has over ONE HUNDRED THOUSAND views? :eek:

finally was able to locate a copy of 4wd action that had the Thunderchief article in it! I've been hunting for years now. :ack: ever since I found out it existed. my apologies for the poor image quality. you guys will have to wait til I can get my hands on a scanner for better resolution.

what are you doing for gears and axles? brake upgrades? will this truck see any highway travel?

Hell Creek makes their springs. don't know where MO gets theirs. if you can find some 2wd MJ leafs in good shape, they should give you less lift when going SOA. I got about 5" outta mine. or you can keep your current MJ main leaf and put some XJ or Explorer leafs under it. both have less arch in their packs and you can mix and match them with MJ leafs to get the height you want. :thumbsup: just make sure all the leafs are properly supported. and I suggest cutting of the eyes of that XJ or explorer main leaf and inserting it in as your #2 leaf. it helps support the long MJ main and helps limit spring-wrap. My 2wd MJ leafs with a second MJ main leaf as the #2 leaf.

I picked up everything I needed at autozone. I did some other work at the same time, so I can't give a parts list. someone else might be able to help with that. be very careful with the brake wrench, as the years of corrosion might make it difficult to take things apart and the more you break, the more you'll need to replace.

in theory it'll add a bit more power to the rear. didn't really notice anything different in my 88. :dunno: if you did have an issue with the rears locking up, there are aftermarket prop valves out there you could use. they don't adjust with the little swing arm though. if there are any prop valves left, they are a dealership-only item. :(

they are easy enough to remove and bypass with a T-fitting. :thumbsup:

I bet he did it that way for better weight distribution. see, if he'd had them stick out the back, the front tires would probably be off the ground. :D

in case you didn't know, changing gears is more involved than just buying the parts and bolting them in. besides, with 35s, you should probably look into a more substantial upgrade in the axle department. what gears are you running now? what trans?

the motor mounts unbolt from the frame. :thumbsup:

the stock intake and exhaust (except for the muffler) on our trucks is actually fairly decent. :yes: I would do them after gears. I run 4.10s because that's the lowest factory ratio I could get in the ford 1/2 ton axles. they are ok, but I'd like 4.88s. engine and trans matter too when considering ratios and I have the 4.0/stick.

If the rust is integral to the body, fix it. if it unbolts, replace it. a new tailgate from down south or out west should clear that up quite well. :D

or at least the one behind it. :fs2:

its only a "cold air" if you can separate the incoming air from the hot engine bay air. otherwise there really isn't much improvement over stock. re-gearing is the best bang for your buck if you're looking for some performance gains. :thumbsup: especially if you're running bigger tires.

the SCCA MJs had the 2.5l in them (there was an engine size restriction) and the Archer brothers absolutely DOMINATED the competition, frequently coming into 1-2 in races. :bowdown:

2' pucks would work too if you like those coils. what do you have for the rest of the front suspension?

soa nets 6" above your current height. the better shape your springs are in, the more lift you need in the front to match. 2wd leafs are a bit shorter than 4wd packs, or you can mix and match with XJ or Explorer leafs to get a shorter overall lift. be sure to use new hardware to reassemble the pack, and make sure the main leaf is properly supported. (personally I would try a full XJ pack, with the eyes cut off, put under an MJ main and go from there) what perches did you go with? got pics of that area with the leafs on top?

grand cherokees make for poor donors. 3.55s are common because 4.0l/autos were common. rules of thumb for 87+: 4.0+auto = 3.55 4.0+stick = 3.07 2.5+5spd = 4.10 2.5L+4spd = 3.55 2.5L+auto = 4.56 86 MJs and 84-85 XJs could pretty much have anything. gotta check them to be sure.

durangos had a dana 44?? :hmm: I thought they used a chrysler axle. either way the bolt pattern would be wrong. try to find an 8.25 that's 97+ (or is is 96+?). they are about as strong as a dana 44. :thumbsup:

are you sure you're feeling the ujoints? or are you feeling the binding in the t-case? the t-case only allows for so much differentiation. If the ujoints were binding, I'd think they would do it in 2wd too. :dunno: