Pete M

what exactly does your kit include? the one I have is a simple hose that connects the can to the low pressure port.

yes and yes. that's why I recommend the 355s. if you're running stockish tires, you don't want to get too crazy with the ratios. my 88 (3.07s) was running 30" tires and I got both performance and fuel economy back when I swapped to 3.55s. :thumbsup:

plenty for a $150 junkyard axle. :yes: try car-part.com but be sure to search for XJs and MJs and various years of them. newer is better, but any will do if they are in decent shape. any XJ/MJ rear axle will go in with minimal effort. and other Jeeps will too (KJ/ZJ/YJ/TJ), but you should have no trouble finding a cheap 3.55 geared XJ axle. Do you have access to basic tools? jack? stands?

do you have a fill kit? (the hoses that connect the can to the truck)

how would you get your hands on more R-12? or did you convert to the newer R-134?

well if he did stop by, he might have left. you guys sure haven't exactly rolled out the welcome mat with all the negative comments. :dunno:

I think he's wondering what color does the state think it is.

not a lot of oxygen at the bottom of a peat bog. :thumbsup:

step one is to get rid of those crappy 3.07 gears. 4.0/auto XJ/MJs will have 3.55s behind them and are everywhere. :thumbsup: what size tires are you running?

neat :D why exactly was that last bit of info included? :hmm:

is there something broken in your current setup? I ask because the only thing wrong with the internal slave is that when it fails, you have to drop the trans to replace it. to convert to an external, you have to drop the trans and thus either way you'll be dropping the trans. as long as you use a Jeep factory slave (aftermarket ones have a poor track record), there's nothing much wrong with just keeping the internal design. it should last another 150k miles. :thumbsup:

sweet! :thumbsup: moving to the tech forum...

money is money. certainly could be worse. :yes:

neat :)

have you had someone saw the steering wheel back and forth while you looked underneath for slop in the system?

gears, gears and more gears. upgrading the ratio in the axles (usually by swapping in whole junkyard axles) will always give the best bang for the buck. :thumbsup:

:rotf:

I wrapped mine in leather using a kit. :D don't really have a good pic of it though

I suggest puling out the resistor pack for inspection. it's only held in with a couple screws and it might be obviously bad like mine was. :thumbsup:

don't know :(

In a weird way, I kinda like it. Definitely different. Needs bigger tires though. I think the biggest question is, did you leave a club card? :brows:

I love it. :drool: I think it's as gorgeous as any 80s Lamborghini or Ferrari. And like those 2 brands, it isn't practical for the real world but sure looks fantastic on a poster. :yes: If it was mine, I'd rock it on the Silver Lake dunes

pretty sure we all have a fuel light that comes on when the fuel is really, really low. :hmm: ever run out of gas? so your gauge can read below the E? I wonder if you can just kinda move the needle over like i can in my van...

well, you fill it til the pump stops. but how much can you fit in the tank? it's possible that the problem is in the tank and it's causing the pump to sense the tank is full and to stop. or the float in the tank has a point in which it gets stuck. or the fuel gauge is faulty. does the low fuel light come on about the time it's supposed to?

a trick for finding vacuum leaks is to start the engine and carefully spray a flammable liquid (one that evaporates quickly, like starter fluid) along the lines and seams. an unlit propane torch works too. if you find the vacuum leak, the stuff will get sucked in and the idle speed will change. obviously have the means to put out a fire close at hand :yes: , but I've not yet heard of anyone catching their truck on fire using this technique.