Pete M

do this: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=18415 and then just ignore the 4x4 light. :D also, here's the acronym chart: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12815 :thumbsup:

perhaps there's some variation in what appear to be the same tires? my dad has enjoyed 2 sets of goodyear forteras now under the Libby with good mileage out of them and great rain/snow traction. yet on tirerack it got horrible reviews. with a bit of research I found that the complaints came from people with either 17, 18 (Explorers, grand cherokees, etc) or tiny 14 inch rims. Dad has 16s. :dunno:

do NOT show that to my sis. :no: I keep having to reassure her that the Jeep will be stuck in low speed when I introduce it to my nephew in 2 months. (but you know that's coming next year... :brows: )

I'd keep driving it. :yes:

bent a rear bar out of conduit and screwed it up to the main bar. But I don't much like the look and am already thinking on starting fresh and going all-custom with conduit. :brows: New steering wheel from a different rig. 1" larger diameter and much better construction than the flimsy stock wheel. Didn't go right on though. I had to invent a method of attachment but it was worth it. :thumbsup: even comes with an electronic horn. :yes: and since he's only 2, I added this one just for the heck of it:

I actually prefer newcomers to ask their questions. :thumbsup:

automatic or standard trans? what size tires does it have now? Oil in the airbox is very common and usually does not mean the engine is bad. :thumbsup: The typical cause is just a plugged vent line (the small line at the back of the valve cover).

interesting... well, try checking where the exhaust passes over the transmission crossmember. it's fairly common for that mount to collapse and let the pipe hit and rattle. and welcome to the club! :wavey:

ok, I'm done for now. :D

I would do 4.10s: dana 30 front and a ford 8.8 rear with wheel spacers.

I don't suppose all 366 say "give them money"? :dunno:

I can't tell for sure what that noise is. but it's a pretty straightforward project to drop the pan and poke around. a great opportunity to change the rear main seal if it's leaking. be certain that the back of the valve cover isn't leaking (it's pretty common) because a leak that will dribble down and look like a RMS.

gearing is the problem. 3.07 gears suck and should never have been put in a Jeep. changing axles to even just 3.55s will make a significant improvement in the seat-of-the-pants feel. 4.10s would be even better. When I bought my 88 it had tiny little 215 tires on it. swapping to "monstrous" 30 inchers tires made it suck on the freeway, on hills, at stoplights, etc. when I blew up the rear axle I got a 3.55 to replace and the truck just came alive and was a joy to drive again! :yes: I promise a better ratio will get you smiling again. :D

the 3.07 gears will hurt performance too. especially if you've got larger than stock tires.

I made my own bracket from a flat piece of stock. but since my truck runs a TJ ax15, I'm not sure if you've got the same 2 bosses I was able to use.

or you can count the spins. brace one axle shaft still and spin the other around exactly twice while counting the times the pinion rotates. if it spins around 3 times its a 3.07. If it spins around 3 and a half times, it's a 3.55. If the axle has a posi, then just spin one side (the other will spin with you) around once. or if it's easier with the axle on the ground (admittedly I usually seem to be giving this tip when the axle is installed under a Jeep) you can hold one shaft still and spin the pinon around until the opposing axle shaft spins twice. either way should work. :thumbsup:

if I remember right, for normal club members the delete option goes away after a certain amount of time.

it pains me to think I could have bought that color instead...

You'll never guess what the deal is with that image. Someone is selling 1000 paintings, each with a number on it as you (hopefully) see above. and the price for this particular image? $516 if you buy now. the price goes up as it gets closer to all 1000 being sold. wtf. :dunno:

don't get me wrong, if you're set on replacing it, go right ahead. :thumbsup: I'm just saying that with the 4.0: blow-by is normally an easy fix, oil leaks are usually an easy fix, and rod knock is usually just another noise. if it makes good power, then I'd run it. :D the 4.0 in my 88 has been starved of oil twice, overheated severely twice, has horrible blow-by, lifter tick and other noises, dirties the oil so fast it needs to be changed inside of 3k, had 200k+ miles and then I drove from MI to Utah and back to go wheeling. :yes: they just aren't like most engines out there. they are tough ol' buggers.

the internet convinced me to buy one (when I found one for cheap), but have not gotten around to installing it so I cannot speak from experience yet.