Pete M

if you can, take your old one in with you to verify the mounting pattern.

facebook works pretty good. it's free, automatically shrinks the pics, and as far as i can tell, has no limit. :thumbsup:

true enough, they might. :thumbsup:

welcome to the club! :waving: pictures?

I used regular ol' mouse spring-traps with sunflower seeds glued to the trigger. the seeds last a lot longer than peanut butter and so they still remain a viable draw many months later. :yes:

if you haven't changed the bumpstops, then your up travel hasn't changed. if you haven't changed your control arms, your downtravel hasn't changed. stock shocks work fine. shocks for a 3" lift will also work fine. no idea what any of their overall lengths are. :dunno:

plenty of options out there. anything from stock length to shocks designed for a 3" lift will work. :thumbsup:

going SOA increases spring wrap :thumbsup:

assuming you don't lose all your t-case fluids out the back?

did it hurt you more than it did him?

vacuum controls the diverters under the dash probably one of the hoses behind the panel was knocked off or there's a leak in the system. check the condition of the hose that feeds into the vacuum canister located in the bumper on the passenger side (a more typical leak spot).

what is your end goal? how bad of shape is your main leaf in?

from what I remember from years ago, he makes them up in small batches along with other springs. takes a ton of money to fire up the furnaces. :yes:

if the goal is to get him to keep making them, you should probably also send an email. :thumbsup:

there's enough supplies in the house to last a couple weeks and enough ammo to make my house an undesirable target. by that time I figure the big panic will have subsided and I can either simply drive away to an unaffected area or raid my neighbors' houses for food.

phone call. find out for sure what's going on.

lack of fuel or lack of spark. check to see that it's actually sparking during cranking.

I have very few action shots of my truck, but plenty of action shots of those who wheeled with me. part of being the passionate photographer in the bunch I guess. :dunno:

sounds like fun. :D take pics!

Just for clarification, it's not just the track bar. plenty of people have had bad track bars and never had the Death. but a bad trackbar can be the proverbial straw that, if fixed, might push the sloppiness factor back under the DW thresh hold and make the it go away.

done :D

off the top of my head I would add to those lists: -a small hack saw, -small pipe wrench, -custom bent 3/4' conduit cheater bar that fits over my ratchets and smaller wrenches, -decent painter's 5-in-1 (works as a mild chisel and a flat pry bar for interior panels and what-not). and in the van I carry just about every tool I could possibly need. :D I like to be prepared. :yes: including: -32mm and 36mm wheel bearing sockets -the rest of my wrenches and sockets -BFH -sawzall and drill with all the batteries

my 88 had a stiff pedal with the engine off, but then the pedal would plunge to the floor if I turned the engine on. it turned out to be a bad booster. I know you've replaced it, but it's always possible that replacement parts go bad. :(

there are a couple theories to mudding and it depends on whether or not there is a hard bottom to the muck. skinny tires to find the bottom, or wide tires to "float" over the mud. far as I can tell, dually front tires are mostly about; "LOOK AT ME!!!"

35s on no lift means you'll be dragging your belly across everything. We've got waaaay more wheelbase than an XJ or wrangler.