Pete M

the ground for the pump is behind the drivers side taillight.

have you cleaned up your grounds yet?

no idea if they are still available new, but any 87-01 XJ at a junkyard will have the parts you need. :thumbsup:

neat! any idea how old it is?

the line to your airbox is considered your current "vacuum" line. or do you mean the newer boxes have 3 lines?

the ballast resistor is bypassed by the computer at startup. if it's bad, the truck would start, then die after a couple seconds. the pump only gets fuel for a second or 2 if the key is turned to "run". once fuel pressure is reached, it shuts off. (and may not turn on at all if fuel pressure if already reached) the pump gets power for the entirety of time that the key is turned to "start". if you can disconnect the starter, you can have someone turn the key to "start" and check the pump then.

:clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping:

can you post a picture of your engine so we can see what you're talking about?

but that's a boring (although sadly accurate) response. a better one is a 2.8 CRD mated to a manual trans, an atlas, and portal axles. now that's some lowrange torque! :yes:

well, it's a bit less, um, exciting, but should fit the bill. :thumbsup:

someday I'd like to drop a battery in the ol' girl and see if she still runs...

I think you're looking at the warm air line that usually runs from the header to the air intake. used for channeling air off the headers at first startup. or at least, where it's supposed to be.

where exactly is the rust?

gotta remember to crank up the stereo for that test. :rock on:

love the safety cone by the speed bumps :rotf: seems a part is, um... loose there. :D

battery and alternator testing is free at most auto parts stores. :thumbsup: if both test ok, I would just drive without banging the sound system super loud for a few days and see what happens. also, clean all your grounds and battery cable connections. be sure to upgrade those if you upgrade the alternator.

been there, done that :D it's just soooo much easier than dealing with the rusty frame!

:banana:

I would keep looking for a better donor (although that 93 4banger would have been a great axle donor for it's 4.10 gears if it was 4wd). eventually you'll find a 94+ with a bad engine. :D or just hit the junkyards. pullapart.com is awesome if you're by one of their locations. car-part.com might be of help too. it sorts purely by part number and those change over the years while a lot of the parts are still usable, so be sure to search for a variety of years. or search for the big ticket items (even if you don't intend to buy them) and then call the yards to see if they still have the Jeep around to get the little things. unless I'm mistaken, the pedal assembly can work through 95, maybe even all the way to 01. might have to fiddle with the brake selector switch to make it work. flywheel has to come from am 87-90 (to get the right CPS notches so the truck will run). clutch can come from any year.

because the MJ was too cool for those ugly yellow lights. :D

my go-to for ford truck questions was usually ford-trucks.com but I see their 60-era subforum is pretty thin.

I didn't say "easy", but it is all bolt-in if you get the parts (clutch stuff, correct year flywheel, pedals, etc). :thumbsup: keep reading, keep learning. lots of great info in the DIY forum. in long vs shortbed, it's only a 12" difference (6" in front and 6" behind the rear tires). shortbeds will turn a bit tighter, longbeds can carry a bit more, shorts have a bit less overhang, blah, blah, blah. bottom line is that I would not turn down a long or a short that had a good running engine and a solid body. . :MJ 1: .

the 4wd conversion is completely bolt-in. :thumbsup: rust is the biggest challenge. -a rust-free truck is the most important thing to me. -second is engine choice (a 4.0 will bolt in place of a 2.5 but you need a complete donor XJ and it is quite a bit of work) and engine health (these are invincible engines if properly cared for), -third is transmission choice (the easiest to change of the 3). -oh, and try to get a truck with AC if that's important to you. you can swap it in with junkyard parts, but it's a pain in the butt. 35s are too big if you want a somewhat normal truck. remember that these are little trucks with little wheel wells. fitting 33s or bigger usually requires hacking at the fenders or sky-high lifts. 31s or 32s on a 4.5" lift can make a very capable truck if you add in a locker. also, keep in mind that a 4.0/manual truck will come with 3.07s from the factory and they suck with even little tires, let alone giant ones. be sure to factor gearing changes into your budget. :thumbsup:

these trucks are like legos, you can easily build anything you want from them with the 20 years of cherokees found in the junkyards. :thumbsup: avoid 86s since they won't have the 4.0. the 4wd conversion is simple and then you can swap in the better late-model XJ parts. 87-92 MJs could be long or short bed, 4.0 or 2.5, 2wd or 4wd. what is your end goal for the truck? trail monster? daily driver? both? what size tire are you shooting for?

whoever originally ordered my dakota did that! It's an R/T that ended up with giant dumbo towing mirrors. :D