Pete M

the perches of a cherokee axle would need to be moved regardless of SOA or SUA. they are a different width apart. but don't fret, as it's the simplest of welding tasks and any auto shop (eg. a muffler joint) should be able to help you out. :thumbsup: I don't believe I've ever heard of an SYE kit for the 207. It's not really needed on MJs anyway. make sure the gear ratio in your new axle matches the current one.

those are the only 2 (or another 2.8) that will reuse your engine's accessories, exhaust, transmission, intake, etc. everything else is a huge deal.

nice! a bet one would look good on my nos bedside on the wall. :D I'll have to keep an eye out.

a lack of power could be definitely be a bad cat.

the 3.4/3.1 from an early 90s Camaro/Firebord is externally the same and a far superior engine inside. :thumbsup:

ouch

I can see a dealership only putting a small piece of the VIN into a computer and coming back with a different vehicle, but all 17 digits? holy crap that's a long shot! :eek: go buy a lotto ticket!!

worse than the peugeot? or the CAD? or the wiring harness blunders? or the 35? or the dozen different ways that water gets under the carpet? that says a lot. :D

you don't need a windshield. Bugs are just extra protein in your diet. :D

clean the area and see if oil is leaking out. the oil filter housing adapter thingie has a set of little o-rings that can leak with age. on the other hand, it took 5 tries to get my RMS to stop leaking, so anything is possible. they invented a double-lipped RMS to deal with cranks that have worn little grooves where the regular RMS lip sits.

I've got about 5.5 and 33x12.5s and had to trim a bit off the bottoms of the fenders. bumpstop extensions are your friends. :thumbsup:

yup. the little plastic Jeeps are labeled 3-6 and he'll be 5 soon. but I need a welder before I can truly go bigger. I bought a second old PW Jeep for his brother, but it looks more like Zayne will outgrow his Jeep before Alec is old enough to drive, so I might need only the one. :dunno: I've seen guys that have modded the seat so it goes back a bit further and therefor the kid can ride a bit longer. we'll see.

added a trailer. built it out of an old powerwheels trailer the neighbors were throwing out. ditched the super-heavy dump bed for a simple tote and added a pintle hitch to work with the Jeep. and there is a steel bracket behind the bumper of the Jeep. :thumbsup: the clevis is not just through plastic.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/47993-proportioning-valves/

we're trying out a new policy of having people post a bit before jumping into the classifieds. I believe you just need 10 posts elsewhere and it'll unlock for ya. :thumbsup:

cheap: 80s Camaro/Firebird. good ol' american v8 fun in a decent handling car. :D bonus points if it's a stickshift prettiest: I was originally going with the Farrari 458, but then thought it would kill me to not be able to drive it, so instead I'm going with this '36 Bugatti Type 57S Corsica Tourer because I think it's just as beautiful but it would terrify me to drive it (the particular one I want is nice enough to be at the Pebble Beach show and likely cost more than a 458). money no object DD: tough one. I'm leaning towards the Charger Hellcat reverted back to looking like a stock Charger so it'd be a sleeper. should be reasonably comfortable as a DD, plus it should be able to overtake someone on the freeway :D close second is my plan for a hemi dropped into the back of a minivan :yes:

cars only. aka: no trucks, no jeeps, no aircraft carriers, etc. list your favorite choices for: -cheap fun (less than 2 grand but no mods allowed other than fixes and a thumping radio) -prettiest (but you don't get to drive it, just park it in your living room) -money no object (but it's your only around town transport) go! can ya tell I'm bored? :D

want!

http://www.generalspringkc.com/Leaf_Springs_Jeep_Comanche_s/1954.htm

haha..... "street mode" :rotf:

the above budget boost can be done cheaply and easily (the hardest part usually being dropping the front axle far enough to weasel the coils out and in). bumping up to a 3" starts to adjust the geometry of your suspension and now involves trac bars, control arms, swaybar links, shocks, brake lines, add-a-leafs and more. If price is a concern, you can't beat pucks and shackles. :thumbsup: You can probably do 2" pucks up front and have a level truck, but that depends on how tired your leafs are. If your tires are rubbing on your control arms, switching to WJ arms will cure that.

good point. I was thinking of fronts. and now that I think about it, shocks are sometimes another determining factor (my own truck for instance). It's been a long day and the brain is tired. basically it's your personal setup that determines proper bumpstop length. Gotta put it through its paces and see what hits first. :thumbsup:

length of bumpstop is controlled more by the tire size than the lift. e.g: a 6" lift with 27" tires won't need any bumpstop alterations. what size tires are you running?

the chevy shackles give about an inch and change and are usually pared with 1.5" spacers up front.

3.73 will also work fine. they are common under ZJs and TJs although they are low pinion (not a big deal if you're not running a huge lift).