Pete M

how much lift?

it's the fun of the internet. :D

and other people say you'll be just fine. :thumbsup:

yes, they all have happy torque ranges, but they aren't as narrow as you might think. I'm just saying that the 4.0 won't be screaming any more than my v8 and it does just fine. plenty capable of hitting that 112mph computer limited speed. not that I would know that. I've just heard. :D

rpms are rpms. doesn't matter how many cylinders there are. heck, my dakota has a 5.9 v8 and 3.92 gears and tires that are just a tick over 27 inches in diameter.

yes, that's an NOS replacement bedside :D a complete one too, with inner and outer walls. even the tie-down loop. :yes: rescued from the rafters of an old ohio dealership. this is an old pic. now it's mostly covered in magnets and my little nephews' artwork. :rotfl2: I've got lots more stuff, just all in boxes still. it's a work in progress. plus frames are ridiculously expensive.

'bout friggin' time! :yes: shadow box with the pins raised on little foam spacers (on a print of an ad, not the original) not the final location for the pins, but good enough for now. looks nice next to the dealership poster. this is also temporary. had an extra frame and it just so happens to stay put when wedged above the door. :rotf:

if I had to do it again, I'd either swap in an XJ/ZJ/whatever unit or splice both rear MJ ports into a single line and then run that to the back. just in case loss of front brakes shuts off the normal rear port as it opens the emergency port. unless someone can ease my mind about that.

you shouldn't use the word "screaming" if the factory sold trucks with 4.56 gears and even smaller tires.

I think you'll be happy with the 3.73 gears. :D they are pretty common in dana 35 or 8.25 flavors under ZJs and KJs with disk brakes. an 8.25 with disk would be swwwwweeeeet :banana: side note: in some years the 4banger-automatic came with the AW4 and 4.56 gears so 4.10s aren't harmful at all. the trans will shift at the appropriate time just fine. :thumbsup: also, I killed the dana 35 under my 2wd daily driver in spectacular form when ring gear teeth started parting ways. I just don't trust them and would never spend money on them beyond new gear oil. :fs1:

found a pic I did years ago. note the "alteration" I had to do as I did this pretty much blindly :D (internet just wasn't the same back then). LONG LIVE THE INTERNET!!!! :bowdown: :bowdown:

done. :thumbsup: though I haven't a clue how to make you a "mod" or anything. :dunno: since we have such a backlog of MJotM's, how about once a week or every other week we throw up a few photos and a link to the CC page that highlights that build?

pics? I'm having difficulty visualizing it.

:banana: :banana: :banana: :banana:

but what would we do with it? guys on FB already double/triple post of other jeep fb pages, and any tech q-n-a would then be unsearchable. honestly, I'd be happy with MJotM updates but I can't manage remembering even that. :(

are those 2 statements connected in some humorous way?

oh, and you might want to talk to your insurance company first too. they may not agree on that price point and you could lose a significant amount if it got totaled.

the only way to know is to see it with your own eyes, or at least through an impartial 3rd party's eyes. all I know for sure is that if I was the one selling it, you better believe I'd be taking some better quality and more in-depth photos of what all justifies that high price tag. no matter how rust-free it may be, it's still a 30 year old truck. what's the underside look like?

new paint always makes me nervous. bring along a weak fridge magnet to check for areas of bondo. pull up the carpet on each side as best you can to check for moisture or worse. look up in front and behind the rear tires to check for rust starting. our trucks rust from the inside-out so just because it looks good on the outside doesn't mean it'll remain nice in a year or 2. did they remove all the trim and badges for the repaint or just tape them over?

Those instructions are helpful, the only question raised currently about doing a cluster swap is do the temp and oil pressure sensor have to be from the vehicle the new cluster comes from. Meaning if i get a cluster from an 87 cherokee will the sensors have to be the ones that come from an 87 cherokee. If I was able to get a factory MJ cluster that had a tach would I have to swap the sensors or would the current ones already on my truck work? Another question i just thought of is which year range are you saying will need minor tweaks and what are those tweaks? you'll need a temperature and oil pressure sensors for an 87-90 XJ/MJ with the same engine. 84-86 tweaks have to do with the retaining clip for the speedometer. aka, keep the clip you have now from your current cluster. there's an outside chance that you'll find a cluster from a 4banger and need to adjust the tach to match the extra 2 cylinders you have, but those are rare indeed so not really a worry.

a factory cluster with the tach goes right in and works without any wiring. :thumbsup: (your 87 will need a 87-90 or an 84-86 with some minor tweaks)

nice :D

there are a couple guys that had good success with polishing the outside http://comancheclub.com/topic/48710-diy-projects-writeups-master-search-index/ (down in lighting)

what are your end goals for the truck? the mid 90s Isuzu rodeo and Honda passport rear dana 44 axles are the same width and same wheel bolt pattern as a grand waggy but can be had with disk brakes and deep gears (4.10 and 4.27) from the factory. the front of those rigs has IFS so that part is worthless to us. I would never pay that much for waggy axles unless they were already built with better gears and brakes. gears alone are 400-600 per axle to get done. car-part.com can help with finding junkyard parts. :thumbsup:

what are you looking for in a truck? bone stock DD? project? 4.0/2.5?