Pete M

another vote for 4.10s let's say that 3.55s brings it back to "factory", but factory sucked so I want at lease 3.73, but then I want a bit more to compensate for the larger mass of tire and so 4.10s. also, I've driven an MJ with 4.10s and 31s and it felt perfect to me.

I can appreciate the engineering challenge, but...

it could be worse. it could always be worse.

pics and a part number!

how far can they push the limits? I'm a bit puzzled as to why the engine isn't a bit... shiny-er. but I guess it's more rat rod than show truck.

things are getting real!

nice work!

there should be a couple writeups in the link in my sig. maybe one of them has what you seek?

95 YJ axles are 297 CAD remember that the drivers side can come from any of those non-CAD 297 Jeeps. and technically you only need the outer half and stub for a 95 YJ so maybe you can get them new?

the shafts are sized to those particular ujoints. you'll need shafts that take the 297 joints in order to run them.

and now's a great time to contemplate new hubs since you'll be removing them anyways.

random suggestions: go buy 6 12mmx90mm grade 10.9 bolts ahead of time. you may end up trashing the old bolts in this process and new is always better anyways. break the 36mm nut while the tire is still on the ground (it might take a LOT to pop) put that nut flush with the end of the shaft and you can try hitting it (carefully) with a big hammer depending on the level of corrosion on teh exposed ends of the 6 bolts, you may need to cut off the end. once the bolts are out, if you're lucky you can hit the hub with that big hammer to free it. once again, be careful what you hit so you're not replacing lugs too if that doesn't work, you can try making a tool like you see below. If you get desperate, you can put something solid between the WMS flange and axle and use the steering of the Jeep to try and push it out bottom line is do not try and pry it free with a crowbar. either it will pop out easy with the hammer, or you'll need some serious physics on your side. a simple lever is not going to do much more than get you hurt when it slips. and as always, when you're reassembling be sure to clean the mating surfaces and use anti-seize I would make 3 of these if you do it this way so you can just turn one at a time rather than resetting each time

and start a build thread!

a complete novice? maybe. I screwed up my first but was good on the next 2. you'll need a press, or a ball joint tool, or sockets and a big hammer (that one takes the most skill). watch a video or 2 on them and see if you're up for it. If not, it'll be way cheaper if you pull the shaft and take it to a shop rather than the whole truck. I would do both sides and also check the condition of the driveshaft ujoints while you're at it.

yup. not hard to get one, but someone asked me if the Jeeps actually had one as an option back in the day. I couldn't confirm from michigan. YJ did not have one as an option though. I'm guessing because of corrosion or ice issues in the exposed cap.

already traded mine away. car-part.com can help you find a 2.5 dakota trans

the tops of the flares of my new truck are actually pitted from all the southern sun exposure. I'm in search of some better ones. Looking for ones in Colorado Red. maybe I'll get lucky and not have to pursue filling/painting these.

I forgot who asked about this (or where for that matter) but I did somehow manage to remember to look up the part number for the factory locking gas caps: 8240 0041 let's hear it for the little victories in life I remembered a thing!

learn how to aim your headlights! you don't need to illuminate the tree tops. that's not where the deer are. it's super easy, you'll stop blinding other people, and as a bonus you won't look like a complete idiot driving down the road. I honestly would have thought that more people would prefer to not look like an idiot. put the gd phone down and drive! and as a side note, maybe put the phone down when you're talking to other people. what a weird addiction that little device is... and today's big gripe... if you're selling a truck cap/topper/tonneau/camper, it is of the utmost importance that you include measurements or at least what the thing came from. there's a big difference between an 8ft f250 and a ranger splash.

are you referring to a 97+ thread or the link to the headlight relays?

finally found some time and brainpower to update the tags. thanks guys!

send a message to Kryptronic. He's the wizard in charge of all the 1s and 0s.

good stuff