Pete M

nice! I doubt I'll ever own one that clean. seems like now's the perfect time for a dual booster swap

you need to start some build threads so we can all get to know your trucks

nice!!!

the tube isn't continuous inside those cast mounts. you'll need to retube. (or find a way to weld to the casting) it's a huge step (unless you go with the radius arms like I did)

relays are relays. if it was 30 years old, it was on borrowed time. if it was cheap, it was cheap. I always carry some spares. fuses too. a trip to a junkyard should provide more than you'll even need.

woo-hoo! a new generation of Jeeper!

a cracked aluminum rim can absolutely be repaired. been there, done that. (I didn't do the actual welding)

one of the choices I've contemplated with my 88 is repainting the hood/roof with a complimentary color (mostly because I'll never be able to match 30 year old red). I'd still have to deal with the tops of the fenders/bed, but maybe some polishing up and hitting with better clear can save them? there are spots on my roof and hood that are beyond saving (down to primer). good to see ya my friend

don't forget that 78-79 ford 1/2 ton front 44s have the cast-in C-brackets that make life more... challenging.

dang. mine was at least a good phone when new. still works good as a camera but has the typical low-light limitations of that era.

I'm likely more familiar with obsolescence than most. my phone-phone is an 8 year old Rugby Pro. it works great as a phone (and calendar/alarm/weather/camera/flashlight/etc). less so as an internet surfboard. like a lot less so. like I can get google results pretty regularly, but clicking a link usually results in failure. But that's just fine with me and my dinosaur ways. if it ever stops being a phone, my S7 active will step up and take its place. on a side note, if anyone is looking for a good first-phone for their kid, the I547 Rugby Pro is about perfect. It's a smart phone (and a pretty good one when new), but it can't run any gaming apps (no processing power to speak of), but it's tough and it's a phone. new batteries are still available plus they dirt cheap. I bought a 3-pack of them on ebay for 30 bucks last year and one was even brand spankin' new (after 7 years of being clumsy I finally broke my screen with a 6ft drop to concrete and needed to swap my guts)

that's a great lookin' Jeep! well done!

https://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/pts/d/atlanta-front-driver-passenger-seats/7176943210.html

documentation. because one man's trash is another man's treasure

I believe they said iphone 7

thanks! doesn't fix the member's issue (iphone/mobile) but you just clued me in that I'm not actually on chrome! I had assumed I was because that's how it was last I checked (I don't use this phone for much since it's just a tiny tablet to me, not my phone), but it appears samsung somehow superseded something with their sinister shenanigans and so I was using their crappy browser. all better now.

they are experiencing multi-minute per pic levels of craziness.

I'm sure there's a way, but I'm not seeing it on my phone. also, one of our members is having some suuuuper long load times for pics. anyone else experiencing this?

car-part.com might be able to find you an MJ column shift

that could be done in a couple different ways. the lazy way is to just T the lines out back and bypass the valve. this retains the second emergency line running to the back and so you'll still need to do the funky MJ bleeding procedure down the road. the more thorough way is to remove that second line and plug the port up front. this would give you the normal bleeding procedure for the back brakes.

yeah, don't rest until you've found the source of the water water can pool up on the engine bay side of the firewall at the circled location. if you drill a small hole going from the engine bay out the wheel well, that will allow water to drain out rather than pool up and defeat the blower motor seal. the HVAC gasket is another known culprit, as well as the windshield seal. don't forget to replace your hood seal, as that's your first line of defense against rain pouring into the engine bay.

oooooo! that's a good idea!

2013

wheel spacers can be used to push the tires out. see, the MJ has a bit of a wide butt, much wider than an XJ, and so the rear tire always looks tucked in. the slightly narrower 8.8 exacerbates this. but an MJ/XJ 44 won't get you to where you want because it's still too narrow. get a pair of 1.5" or 2" spacers and you'll be right as rain wheelbase is the measurement from the front tires to the rear tires. you're thinking of track width; one rear tire to the other rear tire.