Pete M

I might. I'll have to hunt for them though. could be anywhere by now.

any old fog that is in good shape will be desirable.

made from thin metal that isn't very sealed and then traps in the salt/moisture.

do you currently have a bad stock spare tire carrier?

did some digging and it turns out that was me. it's on Long Island currently.

another option is a disk-braked 8.25 from a Liberty. fixes those drums for good!

up on ebay now. still just as mossy. the BIN price is... ambitious. https://www.ebay.com/itm/165607545882

a picture of the sensor? it's at the very back/top of the head on the drivers side. has a single wire snapped on to the top of it.

@ThreeComanches is that the one in Stockbridge? bed still there?

there's no magic way to keep your truck from slowly rotting apart if you drive it in the salt. the above items and procedures are bandaids. if your truck already has rust issues, then my suggestion is to bandaid/patch when needed and wash whenever possible, then drive it year round. if your truck is clean, just don't let it touch salt to begin with. buy a sacrificial winter beater.

the other day I made dinner using ground turkey (still can't tolerate beef), mexican shredded cheese, salsa, and a dash of hot sauce. nuked it til hot and then consumed with scoopedcorn chips. nothing new or original there, but man was it good. I don't like nachos or taco salads when they drench hot stuff all over the chips which then get hot and soggy. just keep them separate and all is well.

fuel tanks are readily available. I wouldn't hold on to one unless it was rust free inside and out.

it's still for sale for a reason.

Fluid Film is about all I can think of. and it wears off so it needs to be applied every year before winter.

it's so true. I never thought about my MJs as big until I tried to work on them in the garage.

pretty sure they are MJ only. plus they are different between 86, 87-90, and 91-92

yes. not sure if the pic was before or after you tried to start it.

A search of the registry does not bring up that vin so I started a new one. best tear it all apart and inspect the wires individually. also that connector has to be connected for the ground to work for the pump

our trucks rot from the inside-out. protecting the interior of the frame is key.

80 bucks is a screamin' deal.

what are the last 6 of the VIN so I can edit its page in the registry

I edited out the reused codes

yours is already up north where the buyers are.

the rear bumper is rotted and from some other truck.