Pete M

It's easy enough to add new forum sections. How does everyone want that done?

The Power seats come with an integrated floor bracket and track assembly. The MJ floor isn't as flat as the XJ and so trying to get it in their with functional power controls is going to be hard. :(

Man that's a big pic. Bigger than fullsize on my screen. :roll: Sorry, first one I saw online.

I don't like having to jab the brakes when going down the hill. :D Also, if anyone is having problems with a clutch and a hill, they don't have enough gearing. :brows:

Well, my opinion is that this particular topic might be a bit more than many members want to see on their Jeep site, or at least that is what the pile of emails I came back to have said. So if everyone has said their fill, please let it go. Thanks. Jeep on! --Pete

But there will always be a slight difference between the front and rear (even if going in a perfectly straight line the whole way), no matter how close you keep the air pressures or balance the tire wear. And that slight difference will build up over time.

It is exactly because the tires won't slip on dry pavement. There needs to be some slip in the Command-trac system. Just a little bit to prevent binding and keep the t-case from exploding. If the truck is running puny little car tires you may be able to get away with it, but as the tires get bigger and stickier or the vehicle weight goes up, the chance of damaging the system goes up. Think of it as if you spooled an axle and then turned a sharp corner. Either a tire will slip, or the axle will break. Something has to give. A 242 is sorta like a posi in that it will allow for some differential when in full-time 4wd but still put power to everything. I think it has a maximum split of like 48/52%. It's not huge, and you can still get some binding when turning in a parking lot, but that's plenty to account for slight differences in tire height or when turning on the street.

I swapped in a 95 booster and prop valve in to my 90 and was not able to get the right fittings or adapters. I ended up buying 25 feet of bulk line from AdvanceAuto and re-using all the fittings that came with my truck and the junkyard parts. Double-flaring all that line was a pain in the @$$, but it did work. :D

Select-trac (242) lets you use 4wd on dry pavement because it allows some differential between the front and rear axles when in full-time 4wd. Locks them together when you shift into 4-hi or 4-low. No CAD was ever used. Command-trac (231) would eventually blow up if used on dry pavement because it only locks the front and rear together. Came with the CAD in the early years.

Most everything is here: http://www.jeeptech.com/convtrans/ax15swap.html Try to get the tranny mount, stick shifter, bellhousing, and all the guts inside the bellhousing with the used trans. Also, Jeep says that regular 10-W30 engine oil is the new recommended fluid. Oh, and remember the correct CJ pilot bushing is a ~$2 part.

I've been looking for a year now. Just happened to get lucky and see it on the internet first this time. :D

Which swap? Swapping in an AX-15 into a Peugeot truck? External bellhousing swap? 4wd trans into a 2wd truck? TJ/YJ trans into an MJ? The axle swap as I did it was not for the feint of heart. I had to custom build a lot and then proceed to trust my engineering "skills" with my life. The drivetrain swap I did can be done pretty much all bolt-in.

Fixed it for ya. :D

Probably not actually. It's incredibly light for such a long boat. We were pleasantly surprised when we picked it up. :D Not sure how durable it is though. It's got some wangs in the front end already, but the seller swears it doesn't leak. I've picked up regular aluminum canoes before and they were always an awkward struggle with 2 people. If I had to, I bet I could pick this one up by myself (still awkward though).

I've flat-towed my MJ with various vehicles before and I buy junkyard tires that go on the MJ. It's a pain trying to carry all the 33' tires, but the trips destroy whatever tire I put on the front of the MJ and aren't much better to the rears. But flat-towing such a long vehicle also sucks. It's constantly fighting the tow vehicle and can be an eye-opening experience. Before my next trip anywhere, I'm going to find someone with a brake-assisted tow dolly to borrow.

I'm not sure I'm the envy of the neighbors though. :D

Essentially, your draglink pushes against your track bar. Without the trackbar, it just pushes your body to the side. If you keep turning the steering wheel eventually you might get enough resistance to move the tires a bit.

The inability to steer. :D

Just wanted to share. :D It's an aluminum 17 footer that I just couldn't pass up at 100 bucks (went in on it with my friend Mike so it technically only cost me $50)

:drool:

:rotfl2:

I've been using aluminum to hide the rust holes. But then my only goal is to simply cover the rust holes. If you want it to also look good... :roll:

33s are overrated. 31s will look great with 0 to 3" of lift and you won't have to regear or buy new axles. If you stick with stock rims, I suggest using WJ lower control arms. My stock height MJ: