Pete M

Look on the slave for a tiny hole that contains a set screw that unscrews with an allen wrench. Also, I used the TJ's slip yoke so I don't know if the MJ yoke will match the late model 231 output shaft. :dunno:

The late model t-cases are great! They are sealed!!!! :D I have a TJ 231 in my 88.

Well, it is an old truck. :D The old rubber hoses get mushy, the booster doesn't quite boost like new anymore, the fluid is probably full of moisture, etc. Also, what size tires do you have?

Sounds like he's got some residual anger. :D Click me!! And me!!

In theory that weakens the system. I did at one time consider adding on a couple loops to the outside of my design to get the same aesthetics without giving up the strength of the straight column, but opted out becasue it would have been a lot of work to fit it into the top corner. I do regret not adding more. :(

It should work if you delete the--> ?t=1189448219 Image Not Found

It's probably time to change the gear oil anyways, right? :D

I'm soooooo jealous of you guys that live close to scenery like that. :D I have to drive for days and days. :(

As to bending the bar up, I kept my design nice and simple. There's 4 bends and 2 fishmouth cuts in the basic bar.

Electrical conduit works good for fleshing out your plans on the truck. I didn't do the typical bend-out-above-the-bed like most bars because of cost reasons and strength concerns. Mine was made to be a real rollbar so I wanted to avoid weak points. I'm sure you've seen my photos, but for anyone that hasn't, I put the bar right through the bed floor and this is how I tied the front into the frame. the bar comes down and is welded to a cut cection of 2x6 rectangle tube which is welded to a broad 1/4" plate (to spread out the forces on the sheetmetal) and that plate is welded to my frame. I even nipped off the corners of the plate so as to not create a stress point. And this is the rear. Same sort of deal, but he plate isn't welded to the frame, rather it is bolted through the frame with a 3/4" bolt. Some day I plan to add the same size bolt to the front. The one thing I regret not doing was adding a diagonal to the main hoop right away. I had planed on doing it later and only after the bar was in did I realize how hard it'll be. :( Oh well. I'll figure something out.

That's quite a tiny picture you've got there. :D

Are you asking for how to bend it up? Or how to attach it to the truck?

The v6 and v8 Explorer axles are essentially identical. The only differences are the exterior bracketry and you'll be cutting all that off anyway.

I had a hat like that once. Finally retired it the way they retire old US flags; cremation (on a campfire for me). Throwing it away like a piece of trash just seemed wrong.

That depends on the tire/wheel combo you're running. Stock rims with big fat tires may need a spacer.

Welcome to the club! :D I trashed the ring/pinion teeth and bent the housing beyond repair with average street use. :roll:

One more try: 4.0 + stick = 3.07 4.0 + auto = 3.55 2.5 + 5spd stick = 4.10 2.5 + 4spd stick = 3.55 2.5 + auto = 4.56 2.8 = anyone's guess :D These are general rules of thumb. No guarantees.

That technique doesn't work with the 4.0L. The dist. is not adjustable. :(

You might not even have to drop the tank if it's the seal around the pump. And for the record, I'd probably just keep driving it and keep the tank only half full. :roll:

It's an adjustable-back hat.

Ok, if this many people all find the khaki hat acceptable, I'm going to run with it. So later this week I'll swing by the sticker shop and confirm all the details and prices and then I'll start a new post to get an official hat total. In the meantime I'll see what needs to be done to alter our logo to suit the hat.

I would double, triple, and quadruple check for vacuum leaks at the intake manifold. :(