Pete M

Yeah, so my starting QB is toast for the season. Too bad the computer won't let me drop him like the sack of potatoes that he's become. :mad:

As far as I know, they should physically fit just fine. Better do some more research before trusting my brain about the actual lift/drop number. :roll: Spring rate can also be important. I don't know the typical TJ lift coil spring rates.

Swap the relay with the one next to it and see if anything changes. Also, the pump gets its ground at the back of the truck. There could be corrosion in the connector located right behind the drivers side rear tire, or at the grounding location itself behind the drivers side tail light housing.

If I remember right, 87s didn't have the ballast resistor. That was introduced in 88 after complaints about the loud fuel pump or something like that.

Off the top of my head, I figure it could be one of 2 things. Either the vin tags have been swapped, or the VIN-search-thingie (technical term) that was used is screwed up. Does the VIN tag on the dash match the VIN tag in the engine compartment? And my cote is for the search engine screwing up. I don't think Eliminators were ever offered in Gold.

2 questions; was the driveshaft balanced? and is it long enough?

I don't remember the exact measurements, but stock TJ coils drop would drop the front end like a couple inches.

It'll come with instructions. You'll need to run wires for power, ground, and then something about a green wire running out to the ignition coil to pick up the signal. Tachs are overrated in my opinion (except in the case of my 88 where I'm using it as the speedometer). More important is to get yourself some functional guages so you have a better chance of catching a problem before it gets so bad as to set off an idiot light.

If I was going to the effort of dropping the tank, I'd just bite the bullet and buy a new tank. :( At least then you'll know it's clean inside.

I doubt you'll be able to convince everyone to stop using abbreviations (even though it'd be better for individuals reading) probably due to a combination of extreme familiarity with the subject matter and acute laziness. But don't ever hesitate to ask about an abbreviation you aren't familiar with. Don't worry, you'll pick up the lingo fast enough. :D

Good catch. :cheers: Although, maybe the guy swapped it in. The t-case seems pretty pimped out.

It's plug-and-play in the sense that you don't have to run any wiring. The Tach is pre-wired in. The oil pressure and temp sensor on the engine are just dumb"switches" for the lights and those switches will need to be swapped for "sensors" to get readings on their respective gauges.

You might want to double check the spline counts on the output of your trans and the input of that t-case. I do believe that yours would be 21 spline and his is 23 spline. But you won't have to worry about the clocking on the t-case. It's the YJ/TJ transmission that causes it. The Dana 30 internals could work. What would you be looking for there?

If it has to be Jeep, it has to be a 401. :brows:

Notice I screwed up and originally used the wrong port. :roll:

Get the longer '95 Dakota soft rear brake line and you'll be prepared for later lifting. :brows:

I assume there's a story to go with this? :brows:

It's alive!!!!!! After a day of frustration I decided to step away from the nonsense and focus on another problem just to clear my head. Long story short, turns out that I didn't have every wire at the battery actually hooked up to said battery. :roll: Alternator charges now too so that's checked off the list. Camera cable is still MIA though. Tomorrow I'm going to call my sister and see if it got left behind at her place. On a side note, driving with a rear spool is...well... interesting. :brows:

And another one bites the dust... My team is just freakin' awesome! :roll:

I can't "log in" either, but if I just go to the right page, I seem to be magically "logged in" already, even though the upper right corner of the screen is still asking me to log in. :dunno:

And don't be tempted to force it. It's close enough that you can make it fit, but far enough apart that you'll destroy the leaf spring bushings in short order. It's happened before.

Let the injuries begin!! :hateputers: Thank you Mr Pollard. Thanks a lot. :fs1:

You'll still need to reweld the perches and stuff. The leaf perches are different widths apart.

Full guages were optional on all MJs that didn't already have them.

That's part of the next phase. There's only so much room in the garage and so I tackled the rearend first and then I was going to flip the truck around and work on the front (track bar bolt, front locker, alternator, etc). but now I have a bigger problem... :(