Pete M

I know a couple guys have talked about it (including me). A search through the projects forum brought up that rockhardzj seems to have, but he didn't have any pictures. http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5110

Not being a smartass, but... ;) :cheers: :razz: I found the problem with my post: "Posted: 13 Sep 2008 03:14 am" Gotta find a way to resist having one more look before bed. :D

I believe the computer turns on the relay which turns on the pump.

Out of curiosity, what brand oil filter are you running?

How well do you understand how stresses affect sheetmetal frames?

Please tell me this is going into a Dana 44 or 8.25 or 8.8...

Until I figured out the real issue in my truck (totally unrelated to your problems unfortunately), I was prepared to wire the pump to a switch in the dash (through an aftermarket relay).

This one turned out to be ineffective. It filled up after a few hours on the highway on my way out to Moab. I dealt with it til Colorado and then fabbed what is there now.

I tried one of those air breather on my truck and all it did was spew oil up into and then out of that breather. :( (admittedly my truck has incredibly bad blow-by)

As I understand it, when you first turn the key to "run", the pump turns on for a short bit to make sure the fuel pressure is up to spec, then it shuts off. When you turn to "start", the fuel pump should get full voltage. After the engine has started, the fuel pump should get full voltage until you kill the ignition. If you're screwing around with checking voltage, you can disconnect the wire that engages the starter and then you're free to have someone hold the key to "start" without wasting your battery on cranking the truck indefinitely.

When are you testing for 12 volts? During cranking? With the key turned? The fuel pump should get power for only a brief moment after the key is turned to the run position (meaning not all the way to start). Which wire are you checking for voltage? If I remember right, I believe the one in the middle is for the fuel level sensor and puts out some voltage (4 or 5 maybe?), but not a full 12 volts.

IAC? TPS?

What's wrong with having a #3? I'm looking at getting my 4th (5th if you count the one I no longer have). :D

I tried it a while back. And failed miserably. I'm just not computer savvy enough to get it running right. :( I really need to find someone close enough to me that they can show me on my computer how to make better use of cPanel. The online web instructions apparently aren't dumbed-down enough. :roll: It's always been on the to-do list. I should probably bump it up higher on the list. :hateputers:

Some MJs came with benches with headrests.

Classifieds generally go in the classifieds, but we may have a better solution for you. MJ bucket floor brackets are the same and MJ bench floor brackets. The issue becomes the center sliding rail section. The straight sliders are best and the most like MJ sliders. The curved sliders will raise the seat up a couple inches. Not exactly good for tall folk. Also, 4door XJ seats won't fold forward, but 2door XJ seats will.

Don't tell anyone, but 2 of the leaf I was running on the 88 were partially welded back together (meaning that they weren't quite cracked all the way through). I was that desperate for MJ leafs at the time and didn't know any better. My cracks were in the same place, at the bolt. I decided that even if the temper died, it was still smashed flat by the center bolt and probably wouldn't matter anyway. :dunno: :D

I did that. I went with Rhino lining. Now my rockers are rotted out, the liner is peeling and it's an absolute mess. Others have had better results. On a side note, I would not go with Rhino again. The spray-on procedure is very complicated and does not lend itself to accomplishing weird spray patterns and does not allow fixing problems as they arise during the process. Once you turn on the spray gun, you can't turn it off. Use your imagination.

Worth a shot. :thumbsup:

I ask about rust because our trucks have a tendency of rusting from the inside-out. If you plug any drain holes it can get really bad really fast in some parts of the country.

Explain please I believe he's referring to the upcoming pres election. :teehee:

Bringing this post back in the hopes that 99ncxj may have found a solution. It appears that I'm experiencing the same thing. The bleeding went fine and the pedal feels normal when the truck is off. Fire it up, and the pedal loses all resistance and the braking is very minimal. I've got 4wheel disks now so there's no real adjustment in the system as in drums. I'm stumped and am looking for ideas before I start yanking the booster out. :mad:

How bad is rust in your neck of the woods?

Say-Bil, Sta-Bil, Sta-Bil. The stuff works great. :thumbsup: Never had a problem with any small or big engine since I started using it, no matter how long the storage was. Heck, the fuel that I just used up in my Dakota was purchased when gas was closer to $1.50/gal. Truck ran great on it when I finally pulled it out of storage. :D For engines that regularly see storage, I also buy premium fuel for the extra octane. I figure it can't hurt.

ahhh, so it's the next election. Gotcha.