Pete M

Just as I figured. :( Moving photos around in the folders changes their addy. Bummer.

While I may or may not be a genius, this particular item I've learned the hard way when I was splicing in new wiring at the back of the truck and suddenly my truck wouldn't start. :roll: Don't forget to check the condition of the connector in the wire harness behind the tire. Corrosion there caused me to lose my brake lights one day.

Checked your grounds?

Also, I would stop putting in the miracle cures.

I already corrected Eagle on that. He was going on his experience with XJs and for XJs the Pioneer trim level came with gauges, for MJs, the Pioneer trim level came with idiot lights (but gauges optional on all MJs that didn't already have them as standard).

Cleaning grounds and wire connectors is free. Definitely wise to try that first. :D

I'd pull the cover for a visual inspection Maybe it'll be something obvious like accumulated gunk clogging everything up. You'll see this:

Have you popped off the valve cover lately?

84-86 are a direct swap, 87-90 can be installed by re-using some of the parts from the back of your gauge cluster. I can't seem to find the web page I thought I had saved, but I did find this for ya: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=921205

The only info you'll ever get on that truck is that it's fake. It was done in Photoshop to show what the guy was thinking of doing.

Are the angles set up properly? Meaning that the axle is pointed at the right angle? Even at 7.5", that's not a huge amount of angle for a ~45" long driveshaft.

Yeah, so my starting QB is toast for the season. Too bad the computer won't let me drop him like the sack of potatoes that he's become. :mad:

As far as I know, they should physically fit just fine. Better do some more research before trusting my brain about the actual lift/drop number. :roll: Spring rate can also be important. I don't know the typical TJ lift coil spring rates.

Swap the relay with the one next to it and see if anything changes. Also, the pump gets its ground at the back of the truck. There could be corrosion in the connector located right behind the drivers side rear tire, or at the grounding location itself behind the drivers side tail light housing.

If I remember right, 87s didn't have the ballast resistor. That was introduced in 88 after complaints about the loud fuel pump or something like that.

Off the top of my head, I figure it could be one of 2 things. Either the vin tags have been swapped, or the VIN-search-thingie (technical term) that was used is screwed up. Does the VIN tag on the dash match the VIN tag in the engine compartment? And my cote is for the search engine screwing up. I don't think Eliminators were ever offered in Gold.

2 questions; was the driveshaft balanced? and is it long enough?

I don't remember the exact measurements, but stock TJ coils drop would drop the front end like a couple inches.

It'll come with instructions. You'll need to run wires for power, ground, and then something about a green wire running out to the ignition coil to pick up the signal. Tachs are overrated in my opinion (except in the case of my 88 where I'm using it as the speedometer). More important is to get yourself some functional guages so you have a better chance of catching a problem before it gets so bad as to set off an idiot light.

If I was going to the effort of dropping the tank, I'd just bite the bullet and buy a new tank. :( At least then you'll know it's clean inside.

I doubt you'll be able to convince everyone to stop using abbreviations (even though it'd be better for individuals reading) probably due to a combination of extreme familiarity with the subject matter and acute laziness. But don't ever hesitate to ask about an abbreviation you aren't familiar with. Don't worry, you'll pick up the lingo fast enough. :D

Good catch. :cheers: Although, maybe the guy swapped it in. The t-case seems pretty pimped out.

It's plug-and-play in the sense that you don't have to run any wiring. The Tach is pre-wired in. The oil pressure and temp sensor on the engine are just dumb"switches" for the lights and those switches will need to be swapped for "sensors" to get readings on their respective gauges.

You might want to double check the spline counts on the output of your trans and the input of that t-case. I do believe that yours would be 21 spline and his is 23 spline. But you won't have to worry about the clocking on the t-case. It's the YJ/TJ transmission that causes it. The Dana 30 internals could work. What would you be looking for there?