Pete M

All my MJs have a "textured" look from years of touch-ups and cover-ups with various brands and shades of spray paint. :D All yours needs is a choice of color (which you seem to have) and it'll look the same.

Spewing oil isn't necessarily a ring issue. But either way we're going to need some pictures. :D

All newer Jeeps have the front axle locked all the time. That alone shouldn't cause your issue. But unlocking the CAD would make the issue go away since now the front driveshaft can turn and the power can't get to the wheels. I still think the t-case has a problem. With the t-case in 2wd and the front axle unlocked, can you rotate the front driveshaft by hand? What about if the t-case is in neutral?

Is your spare tire in there yet? Are you truly finished adding weight to her?

Original and very tired 200k engine, big fat 33" tires that stick out due to the fullsize Ford axles, 5" of lift, and the truck weighs over 2 tons.

Well, get them on it. :D I get better fuel economy towing the truck than driving the truck.

Questions should really be put into the "Tech" forum. That way everyone can see them and it'll be easier for searches in the future. :thumbsup:

60"? Are you sure that's not for a 2wd model? A stock 4wd shortbed is around 44".

I thought I read somewhere that 92+ XJs with ABS had the bigger joints.

Too long. The longbed has 6" more driveshaft length. But, it'd be a good candidate for taking to a shop and getting it shortened to the proper length. If you've got an 4.0L/auto, you can get a driveshaft from a 4.0L/stick and get one more inch of driveshaft length. And please see Rule #2 http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1239

Ok, I'm intrigued. So what precisely is your plan for getting my 88 up to 15 mpg? :brows: And are you willing to bump that timeline up to, say, next year?

Or you could hunt down and build up a front axle, then swap it in at the same time you get the rear done the rear. Depends on how valuable 4wd is to you I guess. Also, a lot of shops will offer a discount on the gear-swap work if you can bring in the axle separate from the Jeep, rather than occupying a money-making bay with your truck. Plus the work is easier on a bench than under a truck.

x2 on the 297 shafts. A lot of XJs and all TJs have them. Look for ABS in the non-CAD XJ axles and then all of them past like 94 I think. They can be swapped into your current axle, or into a junkyard one if you're looking to get some better gears.

Did they ever come with 4.10 gears?

With the front axle it is possible to get a junkyard axle with 4.10s already in them. All depends on the circumstances. I would look for a non-CAD XJ Dana 30 with the bigger 297 axle shaft U-joints. Or, barring that, a TJ front axle with 4.10s (All TJs have the bigger joints). The TJ axle will be a low-pinion axle, but you don't have enough lift to really worry about that. Then go ahead and re-gear your Dana 44. But if you can't find one with the bigger U-joints, those can be added in later, so really any 4.10 XJ/MJ/TJ Dana 30 would do. car-part.com may be of help in finding one or at least checking out local junkyard prices. When getting new gears installed, make sure you get a good warranty on the work. If set up wrong, they can burn out quickly.

"Plussing" was Walt's phrase for taking an idea to the next step. Always wanting to do one better than before and never settle for "good enough". :cheers:

Definitely depends what the plan is. :yes: For some Jeepers looking to limit it at 4.10s, it's hard to beat an Exp 8.8 (I just picked one up for $110 and it looks to have recently had a brake job), but Lead never stops there. To use a Walt Disney term, Lead is always looking to "plus" it. :D

Broken Explorer 31 spline 8.8 shafts? Or other C-clip axles like the almighty Dana 35 and the Ford 7.5 (or 7.something)? I've only read about a handful of Exp 8.8 axleshaft failures. If anything failed it was the carrier or spun tubes. Drop in a Detroit, weld up the tubes and go try to break it. :D But really that's another discussion for another topic for another day. :cheers:

Corrosion in the C101 connector? Fuel pump ground? I'd start wiggling wires and see if something happens.

That's for when the biggest hammer you've got still doesn't get the job done.

Before you spend any money (camber is not easily adjusted), jack up a front tire and see if you can spin it. If you can't, jack up the other side too and see if they turn. Keep an eye on the front driveshaft to see if it spins at all during this experiment. While the tires are in the air, take the opportunity to shake them and check for any slop in the balljoints or steering links.

Like this: Which, by the way, was totally unsuccessful. :teehee: But very entertaining. :D

You couldn't move my trackbar with your hands, feet or a big crowbar, but sure enough it was moving. It could still be the bumpstop, but if it doesn't make any noise if you rock the Jeep up and down, I doubt it's making noise in turns. I still want to know how he bent it. :D

Is there something wrong with the motor?

MJs are tough, but they do have their limits. Oh, and I think Morbo wanted to say something. Morbo? Thanks Morbo. I gotta agree with him on this one. Some photos are in order. :D