Pete M

Not quite yet. I realize that I'm trying hard not to pay attention to what's going on, but last I heard Brett still has to officially get past the try-outs cut, get chosen for the first string position over the other guy, and then not get completely pummeled by his ex-fans before game 1. :D

Shortbed and longbed are the same. 2wd and 4wd are not. (2wd sits 1" lower) Big Ton vs regular are not (Big Ton are stiffer) Personally I would use the better packs but take the main leaf out of the old packs , cut the eyes off, and sneak it right under the main in the new pack. It helps support the main leaf and helps combat spring-wrap. http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL91/512 ... 173844.jpg

Not toe-stepping at all. Heck, I've had that problem and simply ignored it until it magically went away (which probably just happened to coincide with a reboot :roll: )

Do you have intermittent? If so you should be able to bypass the box and plug the 2 connectors directly into each other.

I had to replace that box in my 90. The wipers would go way past their proper stops and smack the A-pillar and the cowling pretty hard. I thought it was bad bushings in the mechanism but it turned out to be just a bad int. box.

Have you tried hitting the cylinders? Use a plastic or rubber mallet and a small block of wood to give each a whack to free it up.

According to the Explorer guys I talked to a few years back, all of the Explorer axles are 31 spline. Apparently it's the cars and rangers that got the lesser splined 8.8s. But I've never torn a drum one apart so I can't say for sure.

[insert generic "made in china" joke here] :D

So do the MJ light sockets go in?

Buy me a flight and I'm there. :cheers:

Bump for a trip to the DIY forum...

I'll make it up to you. Send me the fullsize image in your avatar and I'll make it less pixel-ated.. :D petermontie@hotmail.com

bump for the move to the DIY forum...

Only if Pete notices it. :roll:

There's another that opened up just down the dirt road from TAS. The other is right over on Pennsylvania (east of Telegraph) by the train tracks. Never been to E+M.

Both the 88 and the 90 have intermittent wipers so I can't say for sure what a non-int looks like, but the connectors on either side of the box will pug into each other.

Glad you were finally able to put her to work. :D I know those brakes were a major pain.

Just couldn't help myself. :D

If they are like mine here, they can get away with it because you sign a waiver when you go in which makes them not liable for your stupidity. :D One makes you sign a form and checks ID. One makes you sign the big sign in sheet (but doesn't check that the name you signed is actually you) One doesn't do diddly-squat I forget what that fourth one does. I don't get out there much.

It's a black plastic box with velcro on it.

yup. ...the front of my truck is lifted 6.5"...sooooo it will be simple as draining fluids, unbolting the pan and rear main cap, pushing out the old rear main, and installing the new one. i'll do the valve cover at the same time so I can flush the motor down with seafoam...will do this before i remove the oil pan, so that it doesn't just drain all over my face... Mine too. Lift makes it sooo much easier. :D I do suggest letting the truck sit as long as possible before removing the pan. And even then, you'll have drops of oil falling on you while you work. Goggles and earplugs are recommended.

Not sure. I've never seen the drum-braked version up close. :dunno: I imagine it's just a matter of adapting your current lines to where the Ford's line attach. Got any pictures?

Naw, that would be tacky. They'll be painted the same color as the hood. :cheers: You're chroming the hood? :hmm: :D

That should be fine. :thumbsup: Just make sure that the lines don't snag on anything.

My area had 3 new pull-yur-parts open up in the last few years. Oddly enough, the rules are a bit different between them. :dunno: