Pete M

Are you copying the image? Or the image addy? Which forum is it? I gotta check this out. :D

Pretty much anything that costs more than Fram. Oil filters are one of those things in life where you really do get something for your money. :thumbsup:

Yup. It's actually pretty difficult to hurt one. It's possible, but it takes some doing.

An explorer 8.8, MJ/XJ Dana 44, or 97+ XJ 8.25 is strong enough to handle a mild 350 and will retain your current width and wheel bolt pattern.

How much budget do you have to put towards this?

T-case drops are generally frowned upon. They will help the rear driveshaft angle slightly, but at the same time will make the front driveshaft angle slightly worse, eat up ground clearance, and can tweak the t-case shifting bracketry and cause problems. It's just a bandaid and not the proper way to do it.

Since the uni-body on an MJ is pretty darn strong on its own and really only needs a bit of "help" in that area, I'd say that 1/8" will work. :thumbsup:

Try highlighting the address and clicking on the IMG tag. :thumbsup: It won't work with every image you see online though. Some websites will try to prevent hot-linking to cut down on their bandwidth usage.

I've seen people refer to regular caps (as opposed to all-out slide-ins) as "campers". :dunno:

I don't trust the factory gauges, or the sending units, or the wiring in between.

There are some complications with bolting an older trans to the newer HO blocks. If I remember right, you'll need to make a custom pilot bushing. I wouldn't bother with re-using the peugeot, I'd go right for an AX-15. It represents some extra cost up front (you can still sell the peugeot to lessen that), but it'll be worth it when you're not doing a trans swap again later on. :thumbsup:

Save weight? You're not looking for more fuel mileage are you? I doubt you'd even be able to tell if there was an increase. Also, you might want to post this in the classifieds. :thumbsup:

Weird drops in pressure. Or 0 pressure. Frams have a history of problems. I had one fail on me and cause a 0psi situation on the freeway. :(

Somewhere along the line Jeep switched to a sealed rear output. 96 or 97 I think. :dunno:

If you ever notice oil pressure problems, swap out the orange can o' death. :thumbsup:

I don't recommend Rhino liner. The complicated process by which it is applied does not lend itself to items such as rockers. I didn't know any better and had Rhino put on my rockers. I regret it. :( Go with a more traditional spray like Line-X or a self-applied product like Hurc. Bith will allow more control during application and should produce a better looking result. :thumbsup:

I don't trust the factory guages.

Awesome! Welcome to the club. :wavey:

Does that price include gearing and stronger axles?

If you want to be unique, there's always the Ford radius arms. :D

With that much lift, I would probably bite the bullet and get the SYE and new slip driveshaft. TJ/XJs should seriously consider the SYE after 3". Comanches should seriously consider them after 6". Are you still using the stock driveshaft?

Yup. That's what you're looking for. You may be able to get the proper size one off of a Ranger/Crownvic/Aerostar in the junkyards. Be careful though, plenty of those vehicles came with the lesser 7.5 axle. You need a U-joint adapter from an 8.8 (and not an 8.8 under an F150, as they use a bigger U-joint). The special bolts you need are available at the Ford dealership (or if you get the part off of a junkyard car you can use those bolts.). Do not get bolts from the hardware store. They are super strong and a metric thread. I've yet to see anything like them in a hardware store. If I remember right, they need a 12 point socket/wrench to remove (I forget what size).

Both the 350 and the 4.0 will require that you replace maybe 90% of your truck's guts (though they differ a little in which parts will get thrown out) The easiest job is to swap in another 2.8, followed closely by the 3.4 (which is probably the best plan).

You guys are all copying these updates into your build threads, yes?

Huge difference between the two. 78-79 are fullwidth, high-pinion and have cast-in radius arm mounts (which won't lend themselves to leaf springs). 77 and earlier are narrower, low pinion, have small U-joints, and I seem to remember something about smaller bearings. The F-150s are a bit different. The 78-79 are just like the Bronco, but 77 and earlier are fullwidth with welded-on radius arm mounts. What I recommend looking for are the 8-lug axles from a 77-79 3/4 ton Ford truck (some of the newer years will also work, but a lot of the in-between years have TTB craziness). They are already leaf sprung, the front is a high pinion Dana 44 and the rear will be a Dana 60. Lots of years of fords, chevys and dodges used similar dana 60 rear axles so you don't necessarily need to find a matched pair.