Pete M

There is a 5 year no-questions warranty on the red tops. Or at least there used to be. Yellow top was only a couple years. I run a redtop in my minivan and love it (technically it goes to the 88 MJ, but since that truck isn't exactly mobile at the moment...)

That's really hard to do on a tight budget. It costs money to host the photos directly on this site. The best I can offer is the projects forum and the "Introduce your Comanche..." thread in the pub. :dunno:

Aww, my fingers are going to be sooooo cramped by then... :D

What? :D How about...

I had a local shop bend some 1/4" steel into a bracket and then I drilled holes. In theory you can reuse your stock brackets. The receiver hole was cut using the angle grinder. :thumbsup: edit: I had the welding shop drill the big hole for the hitch pin (it's bigger than regular ones).

I believe 97+ were disc and 31 spline. Pre-97 were 27 spline and drum brakes. Not according the the experts at the explorer forum. all were 31 spline and 95+ are disked. :thumbsup: Check it out when you crack it open and let us know what you find.

The rust under the floor is due to water leaking into the cab and collecting under the carpet (probably through the rust holes in the hood). Make sure you fix all water leaks before installing new carpet. :thumbsup: And a bad translation done by an online translator program: :D La oxidación bajo el piso es debida regar salir en la cabina y reuniendo bajo la alfombra (probablemente por los hoyos de oxidación en la capucha). Aséguresele fija todas filtraciones de agua antes de instalar nueva alfombra.

The goal is to get the people of the rocky mountain area to post up so that later on it's easier to plan get-togethers. That's the theory at least. :dunno:

I don't have a welder, but that didn't stop me from making my own. :D I used an angle grinder and a drill and paid a pro to weld up the final product. http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL91/512 ... 747045.jpg

Interesting idea, but it doesn't work for me. :( I don't have any steel left in the rockers. Also, I'm not sure I could pop holes in solid rockers if my life depended on it. But then, I've lived in Michigan my whole life and disturbing pristine sheetmetal usually plants the seeds of rust. I think that guy is located out in the desert.

Be prepared that removing them can be a real pain in the kiester. The little brackets that hold them on are likely also rusty and the bolts tend to snap off. Though I guess this is only an issue if you want to put the flares back on. Most guys seem to pop out the remaining stud pieces and use SS bolts to reinstall the flares. :thumbsup: How nice do you want this all to look in the end? Can you post pictures of the problem areas?

found this on ebay: :D

Keep in mind that most of the common rust areas on our trucks start rotting from the inside-out. :( A simple grind-n-spray will probably not stop anything, only delay the inevitable. But then, a weld in patch won't solve anything if you don't have access to the backside to properly clean/paint it (rockers, frame etc). It's a tough choice for some of us as to how much effort we really want to throw at it. :( If your floors are rotting, you'll want to find/seal the cab leak that has been letting in the water. Bottom line, I hate road salt. :fs1:

Where is the rust specifically?

Got any Club cards to hand them? :brows:

Well, looks like Bettmen got his story and his hockey messiah. I didn't really care if the Pens won, I just wanted Bettmen to lose. Bummer. That crossbar shot really hurt. :(

Story was that it was being towed behind a big motorhome. :dunno:

Or... it drags your tires into oblivion. :teehee: Image Not Found

We all started at the bottom of the Jeep-knowledge ladder. Just keep asking away and we'll help you with what we can. :thumbsup: But Tech questions should really go in the Tech forum so more people will see it. Especially when looking for opinions, cause if nothing else, this group has lots of varying opinions. :yes:

All I can add is make sure you fully chemically clean the steel after physically scrubbing it down. :thumbsup:

That reminds me, I've got a set of magnetic flames around here somewhere (they were a gift to my mom for her PT cruiser back in the day). I wonder where they went to... :hmm:

If I wasn't familiar with the truck, I'd probably play it safe and strap the d-shaft up securely underneath the truck (if you didn't know, the driveshaft yoke is what keeps the gear oil inside the trans). But technically, putting the trans in neutral *should* work fine too. :thumbsup:

I stand by my statement in this case. The housing is a known weak point (and a tweaked housing can cause some of the other common failures) and he's jumping the truck. If you find a Dana 35 with 4.10s and it's dirt cheap, fine, go for it. Just be sure to fab up a truss to help keep it straight. But I figure if you want more power, gearing is the way to get more power to the ground, and if you're going to buy a new axle with better gears, you might as well invest your money into a better axle. :thumbsup:

I'd go with 4.10s. :thumbsup: