Pete M

Can't remember ever starting a thread for this so here goes. Post up your Jeep or Comanche "stuff". Coins, posters, ads, specialty parts... those things you care for and display as if they were an ancient Inca gold statue or a signed Babe Ruth baseball (or you hang on the wall of the garage as the case may be). I figure we should tally up examples of what's out there so members can know what to look for. First up in my collection is what inspired this post in the first place, I recently picked up 2 unused window sheets for a pair of 86 MJs, one 2wd and one 4wd. (the guy had a few more examples on ebay, all 86 and all 4wd) I have my Comanche poster (about 2'x3'): Back side: My 86 Comanche hat (I have a coin too, but no picture of it): An article from an 06 Hemming's magazine: And of course, my signed copy of the XJ builders guide (my 88 is inside :D ) No I didn't sign it, Eric, the guy who wrote it signed it.

One of what things? fwiw, my backstory on this issue is that I sorta sealed those corresponding vents in my 00 Dakota and the door really was harder to open (and both closing the door and turning up the speed of the interior fan hurt the ears). Took me a bit of time to figure out what the heck was going on, but when I discovered it, I had a huge Homer Simpson moment. D'oh! :doh: Oh, and long ago I tried one of those window solar fans in the 88 and discovered that they really don't work that well when the window is tinted. :dunce:

Yup, MJ factory shackles are longer than XJ factory shackles.

Well, it's certainly not airtight :D , but I can't imagine there's a ton of flow available. This might be a futile as a thought exercise and we're going to need someone to try it to see what happens. :cheers:

Where do you envision the air entering the truck? (or "exiting" if the fan direction is reversed) The 2 vents are the only factory air gaps (they're there to keep your ears from popping when you shut the doors).

Whoops. :oops: Not sure exactly how you fell though the cracks. I assure you it wasn't intentional. But you have to remember that there's always the possibility that only a handful of people know the answer to your question and it's your responsibility to bump it if they miss it. Please be patient, answers will come in due time. :thumbsup: This might give you some insight on the wire harness: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=16946 I've never heard of a company that can convert the 2.5 harness to a 4.0 harness. Try to get a complete donor XJ for this project. You'll need to restructure the front end to accommodate the 4.0 radiator and hood.

I know I've seen ads in the 4x4 mags for high angel super strong driveshafts. Can't recall the names though. :dunno:

bump for some pics. I too have a pile of explorer parts and an MJ 44... :brows:

bump for ya. After reading the question in the Pub (not specifically about our trucks) I was wondering if the pulley pullers were really necessary.

x2 The area behind the seat stays cool the longest. My cure for the heat was a reflective windshield screen and then adding the little window rain guard thingies that allow me to crack the windows a bit. But the fan idea has my brain churning... :D I wonder if I can fit something into the rear window that's solar powered. :hmm:

Interesting. :eek: Was it close to a heat source?

Whose driveshafts have you broken so far?

A bit of vocabulary first. "pipe" is generally used to describe what you can buy in a hardware store and should never ever be entrusted with your life. It's simply not made to do that job. "tube" is generally used to refer to structural tubing that is designed to carry loads and be bent etc. Shrommolly is the best but most expensive and you're likely not to encounter it, DOM is second down the line and is what should be used in rollcages, and HREW is the cheapest and weaker than the others, but can be used if you use it wisely. As to the Harbor frieght benders, they will bend tube, but they will not bend it well. They are simply not designed to prevent kinks in the tube. You can probably get away with using them for bumpers, but I wouldn't even try for a rollcage. I went to a local guy for my rollbar/tirecarrier. I did all the prepwork (and design), then he did the bending/cutting/welding, then I did all the post work (painting etc). It was very affordable. :thumbsup:

:thumbsup:

Look-en' gooooood! :thumbsup: Don't forget to align it after you raise the front.

There's no CPS on a 2.8L. When I had issues starting my 2.8, the problem turned out to be corrosion on the power wire feeding the coil. The spark was simply too weak to fire the gas consistently.

Congrats! :thumbsup: No photos?

Nice truck! Be sure to get a projects thread going and fill in some more details. :thumbsup:

Sounds to me like they need to buy up some property at the end of the run. :eek:

It's quite an involved swap. Essentially, you'll need to gut your entire truck and swap in everything from a donor MJ/XJ including the entire wire harness, dash,, radiator mounts and hood. A more straightforward swap is to get a 3.4L chevy block from a Camaro/Firebird. It's a near bolt-in procedure. :thumbsup: http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/article/a ... ?id=277008

Which is negated if keeping everything SUA. :thumbsup: I have a small reservation that the now stiffer overload might cause the longest leafs to bend down at their ends. Can't say for sure if that'll happen though. It was the bggest reason I first decided to add in that second main leaf, my tired mains were actually flexing up towards the middle and curving down at the ends.

The area between the hood and the windshield is called the "cowl". :thumbsup:

What are your plans? Are you trying to get it street legal? Or is it just a wheeler?

It's really hard to say what any particular combination will do and that's why I don't have a chart. Each individual leaf out there could do something completely different. I built my new packs in the 88 the exact same way I did before (2wd leafs with an extra MJ main) and the fact that they are "fresher" packs gave me almost 2 inches of lift. :shake: If I was a betting man, I'd go with the XJ main first and see what it does. I've got an Explorer main added to my 90 and it's right at stock height (Explorers have a bit less arch than 2wd MJ packs). Wahoo, try it out and let us know what you find. :thumbsup: I'd prefer to use an overload with more arch. If memory serves me right, by the time the leafs are down to the factory overload, the axle is uncomfortably close to bottoming out.

How am I supposed to live vicariously through you guys if you don't post up pics? :dunno: :needpics: