Pete M

the internet is awesome. :D

I think Australia might be further.

86 was the odd year out when it comes to standardization. It very well could have come with 3.55s.

all depends on which is in better shape. all things being equal, I'd go for the 94k one. But if the higher mileage one has much newer brakes, then that one.

swap someone local for their regular 4x4 coils/leafs. but crappy shocks will give a harsh ride. I'd start with the pucks and shackles and shocks and see what happens. if it's still rough (you bought a truck, remember?) then try for different springs. I wouldn't start there though, as you could go through a ton of effort with no noticeable change.

If you're doing a 2" lift, then I would stick with shocks rated for 0-3" lifts. shocks rated simply for 3" lifts would also work.

wait, why are you getting new coils? what is your end goal here? the more you pay, the better the shocks. I'd go with gas charged.

It was done as a way of getting better MPGs (which is doesn't) and reducing wear and tear on the front drivetrain (which it doesn't). Jeep dumped it altogether in the early 90s. So if you lock the CAD permanently, it simply makes it like all later model Jeeps that came with a one-piece axle shaft in there. :thumbsup:

quality MJs can be hard to find, I'd certainly hang on to it until there was a shortbed 5spd sitting next to it in the driveway. :D

there is a connector in the harness located right behind the drivers side rear tire that might be causing your issue. I had corrosion in that connector that killed my brake lights. cleaning might work, but for my truck I needed to splice in a new generic connector from the auto parts store. also, make doubly sure the bulbs are the correct dual filament bulb.

yes, the smaller the backspacing number, the more the tires will push out the side. anything past 4" and you're probably going to have tire in your fender when turning. and yes, the wheel size can increase all you want and as long as the backspacing and outer tire diameter remain constant, everything will work the same. :thumbsup:

any tubular control arm will certainly help as it doesn't have that lip of steel on the side to catch the tire lugs. :thumbsup: but there still might be some rub. it just won't be as loud as it would with stock arms. I've picked up a couple of pair of WJ (99-04 grand cherokee) LCAs for under 30 bucks at the junkyards. some examples of: spacers: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/84-01-Je ... 3363d48b46 shackles: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/99-06-CH ... 3a61c18757

sweet! :bowdown:

I gotta imagine a similar fix would work. :thumbsup:

if you do, it won't be much.

I was half expecting a photo of some J-4000 you might have picked up. :D

that would be nice too. :yes: but my cobalt bits went through steel that my perfectly sharp lesser bits died on. spring steel is tough. :ack:

yes, that should all work for ya. as you take them apart, keep an eye out for cracked leafs. :thumbsup:

the fork will not stay in place for long unless you do one of the mods to keep it there. :thumbsup:

what is it that you're trying to accomplish?

not that we know of yet. MJ shackles are pretty long. and chevy drop shackles are pretty cheap already. :thumbsup: you don't need coils and leafs for such a small lift. pucks and shackles will do the same lift and require less work and less money. :thumbsup:

used are even cheaper. :D

I believe you don't need the whole AX-15 from the dakota, just the bellhousing and the guts. :thumbsup:

sorry. didn't see a mention of 4.10 gears. :dunno:

I wouldn't go bigger than 31s for a 4banger running stock gears. you will notice the power loss. and yes, you can use your stock rims with those,unless you have the rare 15x6 steel rims. a photo showing the rims would help us determine which they are. with a 3" lift you can go with aftermarket rims that'll stick the tires out a bit. I'd go with 15x8s with 4.5" of backspacing.