Pete M

like Fram oil filters. never had a problem... until one tried to starve my engine of oil. :fs1: never again.

shouldn't matter which goes where. :thumbsup: as long as you can make the hoses reach without cracking them.

I was getting all sorts of nasty backfires in my 86 (carbed). I eventually tracked down the issue and it turned out to be corrosion in the feed wire where it attached to the coil causing a really weak spark. but not before I blew the muffler apart. :yes:

it a big hole or a small hole?

just found out it's a member's kid. Just hasn't yet learned the difference between pirate4x4 and CC. :D I've made dad aware of it. :thumbsup:

This is a Dana 30 brake: This is a Dana 30 break: any questions? :D also, 2wd brakes and 4wd brakes do not interchange. :thumbsup: and make sure you get brake parts for your new axle's year. they made some minor changes in 4wd brakes over the years.

if it's draining while driving, then you need to check that the alternator is actually charging. got a multimeter?

almost sounds like someone left themselves signed in to CC and their kid brother found it. :D

I believe Scott is his name. can't remember the screen name though. the truck was off the road when it rolled, but started on the road when he was dodging a horse. :(

x2 :rotf:

Don't know how the rust is in your neck of the woods, but I've never owned a michigan MJ with a bumper that would be able to survive even holding up a spare tire. It's just sheetmetal back there. :(

SOA (spring over axle) nets about 6" of lift. If you're going to be running 235s for a while, just get some 2" pucks and chevy drop shackles. then expand that later on when you're ready for some bigger tires. :thumbsup: Is this truck a daily driver? see much highway?

You do realize that the rear will always be more tucked in than the front, yes? How about some spacers for only the rear to balance it out?

that site shows a Cherokee lift. Dakota packs might lift you an inch in an MJ. We have very different leaf packs than Cherokees. longer control arms are a must at 4". so are longer brake lines, track bar and sway bar links. what size tires are you looking to run?

chances are that the previous owner mistakenly thought pulling the thermostat would help with overheating.

driving while powering only a single front wheel is NOT recommended for street driving. been there, done that, hated it (got a minispool in my front dana 44). Torque steer was constantly trying to turn my truck left with power on, and right when I let up on the gas (was powering the left tire). I gave up on it and drove the rest of the way in 2wd. individual results may vary. my truck was trying to kill me. :ack: also, does this particular locker like it when it has power coming in or out of only one side? there's a chance that would eat it alive.

x2

tough call. there is some experience out there that says doing a flush-n-fill on an AW-4 that hasn't been properly maintained can lead to problems (the theory being that if dislodges particulates that then get lodged in more sensitive areas). If you do the required work and it fails, then you get your money back, right?

why not? every Jeep made since the early 90s comes that way. The CAD was a mistake. It offer neither mpgs nor less wear-n-tear in any relevant or measurable way. Dump it, get some late model shafts with the bigger 297 joints and be happily on your way.

cross your fingers and try giving these guys a holler: http://www.hitch-web.com/vhitch.asp?CLI ... #DRAW-TITE

most things work great, until they don't. :D

before dropping the t-case, I would crawl underneath while someone is pulling the handle to make sure the linkage is all moving smoothly and nothing is binding or loose. might just need adjustment or new plastic bushings.

step 1: go to second hand store. step 2: buy pair of boots that are dedicated to garage use. step 3: never have to clean or replace your toes. :thumbsup: I cannot emphasize enough how easy it is to serious hurt your feet in a garage environment. foot and eye safety should not be left to chance. :no:

The factory setup is prone to failure and intermittent problems that deny you of 4wd at the worst possible moment. It was a mistake that Jeep eventually deleted in favor of a one-piece axleshaft. The CAD is simply a 2-piece axleshaft that has a collar that connects/disconnects the axle shaft. Bypassing it as shown makes it just like any Jeep made after the early/mid 90s. :thumbsup: The t-case will still control 2wd/4wd.

back in it's former life, people used to assume my 88 was a 4wd all the time. :yes: one guy actually said "are you sure?" after I corrected him. :rotf: