Pete M

based on....? The fact that if you do break a shaft, the tire falls off. gotta break one of them suckas first for that to matter. The 8.8 axle shaft track record is pretty darn good. :D

I've picked up I don't know how many 8.8 with 4.10s for under $150. hell of a lot cheaper if you scale back the build just a bit. :D I'm just sayin'...

based on....?

how about now?

and I would engage the CAD permanently to eliminate it as a present or future issue. :thumbsup:

what locker?

x2. :thumbsup: comes in 4x8 sheets and can be had with the reflective aluminum on one side.

of the notable items, got myself a leatherman, pair of toolbags, snow tires, and cash. hoping to spend the dough on a functioning xbox, but likely will go to gas and food. booooo gas and food! oh, and a Comanche Club calender :D

I think some years had adjustable pots on the back.

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=27276 more proof that nobody reads the stickies... :fool:

windshields are the same. the center consoles have some slight differences, but will swap directly. :thumbsup:

it might have been done once already when it was under 100k. :thumbsup:

That light is purely on a timer designed to go off after like 75k miles. :thumbsup: the timer isn't resettable either and if you did need that light to be functional, you'd have to buy a new timer box.

maybe your fuel injector is faulty and is spewing too much fuel down the tb. Since yours is a TBI, you should be able to pull off the rubber intake hose and see the injector as is works.

have you tried pulling the handle and kicking from the inside?

it'll look something like this: with pipe threads on one end and it will accept a rubber hose on the other. drill the right size hole, then thread the hole for the proper thread pitch. be sure to use a hose clamp to keep the hose on, make sure there is enough slack in the hose so that it won't bind when the suspension is at maximum droop, and make sure it is properly secured and not flapping around in the breeze. I attached mine to my flexible brake hose. Where you route it is all up to you, but the goal is that water can't ever get to the open end of the hose. I ran mine all the way to the engine compartment but that's not necessary. Oh, and I used a clear tubing with the thinking being that if anything was inside the tube, I could see it. But that didn't last long as the tube is now hopelessly dirty and I'm not sure I'd be able to tell one way or the other.

phooey on that. bone stock Jeeps can have a blast at Moab. ya just have to be more careful about which trails you choose. :thumbsup:

can't say for sure as I'm running into the limit of my knowledge on the egr (never had one go bad on me). I know it has caused plenty of grief for guys in regards to warmup and idling.

on my axle it is to the drivers side of the differential on the top of the axle tube. if the guy welded over it, you'll want to drill another and install a new nipple for a breather hose.

The egr might be stuck partially open. :dunno:

210k miles and in need of engine work? can't be worth all that much. nothing really special about that engine. just a 360 lifted from the truck line. :thumbsup: kbb.com should be able to help out with a price.

I applaud your ambition. :thumbsup: But being designed "with serviceability in mind" is different than building a thing that still technically happens to come apart. :(

5 on 5.5

I didn't do it, I bought the axle with it already done so I don't know all the details. I do know that he welded the bracket on but I don't remember if the rotors he used needed clearancing.