Pete M

272?

tire brand and style, rim width and backspacing, ride height, steering lock settings, etc, all have an impact when you're pushing the limits of tire size. lots o' variables.

you probably did read that somewhere. I know I have. In fact, I think I read that on a tire manufacturers website. But our collective experience has shown otherwise. :D Is 31x10.5 on a 7" rim exactly perfect for the tire contact patch and sidewall bulge and the other specs that measure and bring forth the theoretical ultimate performance you can get out of a particular tire? might not be, but it's soooooo darn close as to be inconsequential in the real world. :thumbsup:

prepare for some disappointment. :( how big/small are we talking here?

yes. what he said. sorry I only put in "axles" in step 2 and forgot to mention it by name. :doh: I did mean to swap out both axles together so that they have matching 3.55 gears. :thumbsup:

I don't think it's an XJ/MJ difference as much as an 86 vs later model difference or 2wd vs 4wd. I remember that I couldn't use my 2wd 88 yoke with my 4wd 99 t-case. Been a while, but I think it was a spline count difference. :dunno:

I highly, HIGHLY suggest using this opportunity to upgrade. :thumbsup: step 1: find XJ that had a 4.0/auto 2: grab the axles if they are in decent shape and come with brakes. 3: cut off the XJ brackets on rear axle (use any means you have, doesn't have to be pretty) 4: get perches welded on in the MJ location (perches are like $20 and welding can be done at any shop, like a muffler place.) 5: bolt everything in. 6: smile because the 3.07s are looooong gone. :D

wow. didn't think I'd ever find another to add. The Ford Capri Comanche:

what will you be adding to those coils to complete the frontend geometry adjustments?

we had one guy recently that, for reasons that still escape me, found his driveshaft too short after a lift. :ack:

glad to hear it's working properly again! :wrench: you might want to repost your new question as a new topic though. :thumbsup:

I had 30" tires on stock rims under my 2wd 88 with no lift. I wouldn't go higher than 2" pucks and the 2" chevy drop shackles (it's just coincidence that they also have a 2 in their name, since they were designed to, as you can guess, drop a chevy fullsize truck 2" and that same length shackle will raise and MJ 2" due to our different style of suspension).

step one is to find out why your 2.8 is gutless. blown rings are bad, but a clogged fuel filter is easy. :thumbsup: easiest swap is the early 90s 3.4L v6 since it will bolt to your trans, exhaust, accessories, etc. and it's fairly straightforward to wire in the Camaro/Firebrd fuel injection if you go that way. after that is a 4.0 since if you're going to gut your entire truck, picking up a used XJ will give you a 95% bolt in job. after that is a 90* chevy engine (4.3, 305 etc). it won't work with anything you've got now, and you'll need lots of custom parts or a big checkbook. (your 2.8 is a 60* engine and shares nothing with the 90* blocks)

stock MJ is around 3k pounds. :thumbsup:

maybe. my memory sucks. :( I was under the impression the the gasket pretty much goes in and around the glass like a gasket rather than just being a beauty trim. I'm sure someone that's done it will chime in. :thumbsup:

yanking out the glass and reinstalling it. and pulling MJ glass without breaking it can be a real challenge. :(

late model XJ rubber gasket stuff seems to be popular.

I didn't have to grind off anything. I did cause it's slightly better. :D

because of all the variables (pinion angles, type of lift, etc), the best thing to do is still to put the yoke back in the tcase where it was at ride height, then measure to the yoke on the axle, center of u-joint to center of u-joint.

I wouldn't choose my arms based primarily on that aspect. it takes 10 seconds with a grinder or sawzall to trim it up. :thumbsup:

be very VERY careful when removing the oil pressure switch. they are notorious for snapping off at the block. :(

why?

just an fyi, when testing for voltage in the harness back by the fuel tank, the pump will ONLY get voltage for 1 second after the key is first turned to "run", and then again when the engine is actively being turned over or the truck is running. It does not get power under any other circumstance. between the burnt wire harness and the wrong pump, I think you need to start from scratch, stop screwing around with the bad stuff and replace them both with good and proper parts. and if the bare wires in that harness shorted out, then you might also have burned out a fuse, a relay or even a fusible link.

I too have a harbor freight model. never again. leaks fluid and he's not kidding about that hair trigger for letting the truck down. :ack:

I'm assuming we're talking about this area of contact? at full droop my WJ arms were touching that little lip on the axle. was no biggie at all to grind off an inch. got a not-insignificant amount of further droop. :D