Pete M

It's here. :thumbsup: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=15316

I want pictures. :D

yup. most dana 35s are out there, pluggin' away just fine. mine blew up on the way to work (while wearing 30" tires). dana 35s, peugeots, and 2.8Ls are all in the same category. they usually work fine. but it is wise to have a game plan ready to go. :thumbsup:

car-part.com may be of some help in locating junkyard axles near you. :thumbsup:

but not as big as 80. :thumbsup:

XJs have a larger fuel tank. 20.2 vs 18 in a swb MJ.

if you can identify if the axle is C-clip or not, that might help. C-clip Dana 35s weren't out yet when your truck was built. The early axle shafts were retained by a flange out by the tire. later axle shafts were retained by a small c-clip in the differential. If yours is C-clip, then it's definitely not stock. If it's a non-C-clip, then we're back to square one. a non-C-clip axle. note the thick plate that retains the axle shaft when bolted up. a C-clip axle. note the lack of said plate

my truck is also up about 6", the bumper is raised up higher than stock, and I've still dragged it on all sorts of things. :dunno: I like the look of D-rings. :D I'm just saying that that particular location might be more detriment than benefit. What about if the tab for them pointed straight back instead of straight down?

the 3.4 has more advantages than just a bigger displacement. it's a superior block to the 2.8, with a better oiling design. :thumbsup: far less likely to blow a rod out the side. :yes: finding a cheap used maybe wrecked Camaro and using the 3.4 and its fuel injection system can make a huge difference in your truck. But others will argue that you could also buy a wrecked XJ and do a complete swap to the 4.0L. choice is yours. but I would not put any time/effort into the 2.8L block. It's like the Dana 35 and the peugeot transmission. it's just not worth it. :( If you have an auto trans, then you have a 904 trans. If you have a 5spd manual then it's a AX-5, if 4spd, then an AX-4. You need to find out what gears you have now.

a seemingly small bump in gear ratio can make a huge difference in perceived power. :thumbsup:

might want to start a new thread for that one. :thumbsup:

unless the rear axle is a Dana 44, it's then a worthless Dana 35 with 3.07 gears. I wouldn't take it if it was free. :( But I'd take that entire body if I was closer. :D

they should work fine. :thumbsup:

why D-rings? why not use the hitch for extraction? those ring loops will hang down and drag on the ground. and I'm not entirely crazy about their distance from the bolts. that's quite a bit of rotational force on the little hitch/bumper bolts. I integrated a bit more beef into my bumper brackets by extending the beam and adding a 5/8" bolt through the frame (bolt not installed yet in the photo). I figure if I was going to design my own, I could make it better than stock. :D

I would never contemplate this swap with the goal of more get-up-and-go. Lower gearing is a far better way to get that. I would, however, contemplate the HO swap in order to get a lower mileage drivetrain or to fix a severely mistreated renix era MJ. Any boost in HP is offset by a loss of low end torque and that's a whole lot of effort for only a few extra ponies. The HO is not a panacea of power, but they did fix some of the issues that renix era 4.0s can have. :thumbsup:

88-06 all seem to be the same. :dunno: http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw ... 06.c0.m283 and just for the heck of it, spacers: http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw ... m270.l1313

no hills near me. lots of turns though. my dakota is a death trap. experiences may vary.

this guy simply wrapped the cable around the 8.8 lever and secured it with a cable tie.

If they have plastic in them, then they are probably stock (which suck). I wish you luck on removing them if they are. :( be very very very careful with those tiny screws. and when you re-install them, use anti-seize on them. :thumbsup: MM hubs are good. I went with Warn premiums on mine. any aftermarket hub is light years beyond stock in ease of installation and removal. :yes:

88 is too old for chrysler to be of any real help. :(

what brand hubs do you have now?

silly question, but did you remember to engage your hubs?

if you sat a stock 2wd MJ next to a stock 4wd MJ, the 2wd will be about an inch shorter. So if you added the same spacers and shackles to both trucks, both trucks would be 2" taller than they were previous, but still the 2wd MJ would be 1 inch shorter than the 4wd. But all of this is moot since a bone stock 4wd can run 31" tires (on stock Jeep rims) so the 2wd will look like a 4wd with a 1" lift and 31" tires. In order to get the 2wd up another inch, you'll need to buy springs, either used, new or whatever. I wouldn't sweat it too much. :thumbsup:

phooey on that. aggressive 31s and lockers (and a smart driver) can go just about anywhere you want to go. :thumbsup: 33s give you only 1" more ground clearance and will most certainly cost more to run (more lift, more gearing, more chance for breakage). do yourself a favor and get some armor. bumper and rocker guards go a long way towards bringing your truck back from no mans land. :D I don't understand the question. :hmm: