Pete M

the axles are the same width. It's the bed of the MJ that's wider than the front fenders.

Nothing wrong with some aggressive 31s. 33s only give one inch more clearance.

If you blew it up, then it's likely a Dana 35. :thumbsup: manual or auto transmission?

doesn't matter much, but typically the hose from the filterbox to the valve cover (the fresh air coming in) is larger than the hose running from the valve cover to the intake manifold (which sucks the bad fumes out and puts them into the engine to burn) But in the end, it'll be ok to have them the same size if that's easier to do. :thumbsup:

see the rubber plug in the back of my valve cover? that's what you need.

I wallowed out my shock mount holes when I installed the 9" axle. I think (it's been a while) I used the 4" grinder. Doesn't have to be pretty. :D But I built my U-bolt plates from scratch. I assume you didn't grab those from the XJ?

needs some finishing... :yes:

why only lurk? see rule number 3. :cheers:

around here it's a few feet of isle dedicated to 'help' brand items. little random things like special bolts or plugs or window handles.

There are 2 different kinds of AAL, long and short.

I'm not all that familiar with the wranglers, but on my 4.0s, both are rubber plugs with holes in the middle. Got replacements at the parts store in the "help" section. think they were listed as Ford parts. and the middle one is of course the oil cap.

If I understand it right, one goes to the vacuum port on the intake manifold and the other goes to the filter box. One is in, the other out, and I imagine it doesn't really matter which is which. :dunno:

yup. that's where my grandpa lives. :D will be in Georgia til Tuesday.

I think the middle wire is the sender, but not certain. An easy way to check is to hook a multimeter up to the Jeep's wire harness with the key in the run position. it should then show like 6 volts to the sender's wire. Then you just need to transpose that info over to the fuel pump's harness.

disconnect it from the wire harness and give it 12 volts. make sure you aren't giving power to the sender wire or you might never again know how much gas is in it. :thumbsup:

Thanks! :cheers:

AALs suck. They make the ride stiffer and give an unreliable amount of lift. :(

So I'm using my grandfathers computer while here in GA and I'm about ready to throw it out the window. certain keys that use shift do not type what they are supposed to. the most annoying is the @ does " and vice versa. I've tried swapping keyboards to no effect. The 'puter is under 2 years old and runs Microsoft 7. thoughts?

the click only happens the first time. then nothing until I pull off the batt terminals and clean it all up with steel wool. :dunno:

even better. 8)

any chance one of those fancy covers with a drain comes in chrome? :brows:

for whatever reason, my 90 always needs the battery cable connections cleaned up. It'll go click, then nothing.

corrosion protection. steel isn't the only thing that rots. also, were you able to find out which alloy they use?

yup. can't have too much tire exposed. It's a safety thing. :thumbsup: exactly how much you can get away with depends on your local ordinances and the mood of the cop. Those spacers shouldn't really affect anything. They merely make the rear look like the fronts. Hornbrod added spacers to the rear of his truck. my truck with it's fullsize axles is no where near legal, so I added big ol' flaps in an attempt to appease johnny law. I also made flare extensions for if I ever needed to drive it regularly on the street.

just do me one favor. if the guy says he can make them (he has a CNC machine?), ask him which aluminum alloy he'd be using. then report back. :thumbsup: